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Posted

You seem to have a sleep cycle similar to mine.  I hit the sack around 6 AM.  Most productive during nighttime.  Breakfast around 2PM and dinner around 1 AM.

Posted
35 minutes ago, Flat32 said:

You seem to have a sleep cycle similar to mine.  I hit the sack around 6 AM.  Most productive during nighttime.  Breakfast around 2PM and dinner around 1 AM.

I do. I work nights, so, when I am off, I maintain my regular schedule. My schedule is fairly similar to your.

Posted

I'm impressed by your seat-of-the-pants engineering. You have a lot of very cool stuff going on there. 

Also, I'm glad to see that you seem to have decided on using the moons for the rear wheels. You just can't go wrong with a classic!

David G.

Posted
6 hours ago, David G. said:

I'm impressed by your seat-of-the-pants engineering. You have a lot of very cool stuff going on there. 

Also, I'm glad to see that you seem to have decided on using the moons for the rear wheels. You just can't go wrong with a classic!

David G.

Thanks, David.  Glad you're enjoying the thread. I am, indeed using the truck wheels with the baby moons on the rear. Once I made the "moons" from tooling aluminum, I knew that's what I would use. They just looked too good!

6 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Brilliant work! I'm enjoying this thread a whole lot!

If you are still interested in doing a TROG car, see my album.  My friend Bill and I attended TROG in Wildwood, NJ last month.  It was a fantastic experience.

https://public.fotki.com/ModelCitizen/11_car_reference_library/car-shows-and-cruis/trog-the-race-of-ge/

Here's a few photos to get ya going!   

 

 

 

Thanks, so much, Tom! You know, I was worried that I might be illegal, as a TROG racer, but, at a glance, my equipment all might be old enough. Thanks for the link! When I get home from work, I will have a more in-depth look at your album,  because I might be able to whack two project birds with one rock!

Posted
21 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

Thanks, David.  Glad you're enjoying the thread. I am, indeed using the truck wheels with the baby moons on the rear. Once I made the "moons" from tooling aluminum, I knew that's what I would use. They just looked too good!

Thanks, so much, Tom! You know, I was worried that I might be illegal, as a TROG racer, but, at a glance, my equipment all might be old enough. Thanks for the link! When I get home from work, I will have a more in-depth look at your album,  because I might be able to whack two project birds with one rock!

Thanks Dan!

Here's the required specifications:

https://www.theraceofgentlemen.com/race-entry

Note that they are a bit loose.  For instance there were cars with headlights running.   Also noted cars with interesting but period drive trains such as Hudson Super Six and Packard Straight Eights.  See those in my photos...

Posted
16 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Thanks Dan!

Here's the required specifications:

https://www.theraceofgentlemen.com/race-entry

Note that they are a bit loose.  For instance there were cars with headlights running.   Also noted cars with interesting but period drive trains such as Hudson Super Six and Packard Straight Eights.  See those in my photos...

A read through the rules says I will be good! It says no parts newer than 1953. The rear brakes are about 1950, and those are the newest parts I can think of, on the car. Thanks,  Tom! I can get my real hot rod, and a TROG racer, all at once. I want it to be streetable, too, so I will need headlights. I'll put tape on the lenses, because I think that looks cool. I'll do it like I did on my Aluma Coupe.

RF 2.jpg

Posted

I had to do a little reshaping on the block, where it meets the pan rail. I installed the tubing that makes the space for the crankshaft too far out, over the pan. The flathead four has a flange cast to the block, that the pan bolts to, rather than the pan's flange overlapping the block. I got that mostly fixed, less a little more rounding-off. The beginnings of the front engine mount are in place. When I am done with it, there won't be  much left of that angle stock! I carved the water outlet from .125"X.156" Evergreen strip. I need to find something I can flow into all these gaps. I am wondering if maybe Mr. Surfacer, applied with a fine brush would work. I'm asking, because I don't have any, and am wondering if it's worth the investment. Also attached is a photo of the block, before I cut the flange.

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Posted

I added a few more details to the engine. Since the solenoid/switch cover is stamped, I carved one out of some .060" Evergreen and embossed some tooling aluminum over it. I made and mounted the water pump mount, and added the  little bosses on the lower block sides, that the oil pan bolts thread into. Turned a crank pulley, but, I am unsure of the size of the pulley, so I eyeballed it. Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome!

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Posted

Admiring your "eyeballed" pulley.  I know what it must have taken to machine it.

Looking at the small nail-like pins you're using and wonder where you get them.  They have a very nice looking head shape that I need.

Posted

It wasn't too difficult, Ray. I do want to try another one with some details that will require the mill. Give me a day, or two, to find my source on those nails/pins. I had some I had bought twenty five or so years back, and was getting low enough that I decided to look for more. I finally found some a few months ago. I saved the packaging, just need to find it!

Posted
13 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Looking good, and lotsa kool stuff going on here. I missed this one previously, really glad I stopped by. Nice work. 

Thank you, Bill. I appreciate that!

 

36 minutes ago, Flat32 said:

Thanks for the nail info.  Ordered what you linked to. Too bad the original source is no longer.

The only difference I see between these and the originals is that these are 1/8" longer. They're great for kingpins!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well, after about a month of "idle" time, due to a slip/fall on some black ice, which made it too uncomfortable to sit anywhere but the recliner, I was finally able  to get some  work done on this thing, in the past three or four days. I cut out the molded in boards from the kit's floor, then cut a sheet of .005" Evergreen sheet, to create a flange (visible in the photos of the prototype) to support these strips of basswood. They are a tad narrow, but of the proper thickness, and, I think they look okay. Now, to figure out exactly how to deal with the slat I had to cut for the shifter. I also made new trans crossmember plates that now incorporate the bracket for the radius rods. Also visible are those radius rods. Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome!

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Posted
On 12/30/2019 at 2:53 AM, alan barton said:

Great to see someone replicating original factory construction techniques!  This is going to be sooooo cool.

Cheers

Alan

Thank you, Alan. It looked to me to be the easiest way to make it look right! Thanks s0 much for your kind words.

 

22 hours ago, Danno said:

Exceptional work; impressive progress!

Thank you, Danno! It's been good, to get back to it!

Posted

I got the toe-board made, along with the front section of floor. I couldn't figure a satisfactory way to fill the front floor area using the strips I made most of the floorboards from, because a couple of pieces would have no support, in the center of the chassis, due to the trans/shifter. I used .022" Midwest plywood to make the toe-board and the front floorboard. I think I will add another layer to the floorboard section.The toe-board will fit beautifully, once i have replaced the  pedal hanger bracket. I'm pretty happy with it! Questions, comments and critiques always welcome!

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