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Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, gtx6970 said:

Not in 1970.

 

Actually there was no 1970 Coronet promo of any kind.

MPC 2 door hardtop kit only

Ok.  Anyway, since the 70 kit tooling was derived from the ‘68-69, the convertible style tub was continued.  50 years ago, accuracy wasn’t as much of a concern to the model companies as it is/should be today..

Edited by Rob Hall
Posted
On 9/17/2020 at 2:27 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Hardly Al.

Keep watching.

I'm afraid that after looking at what it's going to take to get these door cards to look right, things are going to get ugly! :unsure:

 

 

 

 

Steve

I have an SLA style 3D printer on order. The door cards are the perfect type of job for it.

Posted
53 minutes ago, Carmak said:

I have an SLA style 3D printer on order. The door cards are the perfect type of job for it.

Thanks Craig.

But part of the fun of building for me is working through these kinds of issues.

Even though it can be trying at times, it's also enjoyable and gives me a sense of accomplishment.

 

I have to get something out of this hobby I guess. :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Posted

Well, it's a little time consuming, but the first of the scratch built door panels is pretty much finished.

The detail is more pronounced than the actual 1:1 door card, but I think that I actually prefer that anyway.

It will add more definition to the interior.

 

 

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Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)
On 9/16/2020 at 3:21 PM, Mike Chernecki said:

Hi Steve,

 

I mentioned this when you were building your '69. Does the '68 have the sunken in area on the passenger side door, both the '69 and '70 have it? Also, I  removed the extra door crease on my '70 in the pictures.

 

SuperBeeSides.jpg

  Yes.  On the real car, that part of the door area under the door handle has the sunken area.   I own a real 1968 Coronet 440.  That is the correct shape of the door. This is on all 68-70 Coronet doors.  Also, these doors are  the same as 68-70 Belvedere, Satellite, Roadrunner, GTX.  You can swap doors from the  Dodge and Plymouth 68-70 B-body cars.

Edited by GMP440
Posted

That interior door panel looks GREAT ! 

Such an intricate design to replicate ( I can imagine the original design proposal from c.1965 ) --- you've succeeded and then some .

Posted
On 9/23/2020 at 7:41 PM, 1972coronet said:

That interior door panel looks GREAT ! 

Such an intricate design to replicate ( I can imagine the original design proposal from c.1965 ) --- you've succeeded and then some .

Thanks John!

 

 

Work on the door panel continues.

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Well, I'm considering the driver side panel done!

One more to go. :P

 

The more that I do these sort of mods, the more I enjoy it.

Maybe I'm sick! :D

 

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Steve

Posted
7 hours ago, espo said:

Very impressive looking door panels, especially for something that may go unnoticed by a casual observer.  

Yeah, but as has been said many times, "I'll know it's there". ;)

I'll never build for the casual observer. :)

 

 

 

Steve

Posted
4 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Yeah, but as has been said many times, "I'll know it's there". ;)

I'll never build for the casual observer. :)

 

 

 

Steve

Well put. I have to agree. A lot of the personal satisfaction of building these kits is knowing what you did to make it your own. 

Posted

I decided to take a break from the interior modifications and begin a little body work.

I started some preliminary scribing on the body, like defining the trim and deepening and adding some panel lines.

I also decided upon removing the wiper blades for adding separate parts later,

 

I've never done that before and it took some careful grinding, filing and sanding to maintain the original window trim, but I think it turned out well.

 

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Steve

Posted

I am looking forward to seeing this iconic vehicle get "the Guthmiller treatment." I always learn something from these builds, and staying tuned for more.

Posted

:D

Thanks guys!

 

I've been playing around a little with Greg's (NOBLNG) idea for the marker lights on his '68 Charger to use on this Coronet.

I changed the technique just a little by drilling the holes completely through the body and then cutting and polishing about a quarter inch length of aluminum tubing to slip into the hole.

This way I figure that I can complete the bezel one of two ways.

Either I can add them after all of the painting is finished, (although allowances will need to be considered for paint thickness) or I can install them prior to paint and then reveal them with lacquer thinner in the end as you would a script using the "foil under paint" technique.

I think either will work well.

I'll just have to ruminate on that a bit.

 

I decided that this was all necessary because there are small sink marks around the front markers that would be difficult to fill and sand with the original markers in place.

 

Lenses I'm not worried about.

They can be made with clear or colored sprue and added at a later time.

 

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Steve

 

 

 

Posted

Looking good Steve ?! Enjoying the progression as always. You’ve inspired me to add greater interior detail, especially roof and window pillars. Cheers Misha

Posted

Thank you guys!

 

 

Still working on some engineering to get the Revell Charger parts to fit the Coronet.

 

Been spending some time modifying engine compartment parts to fit.

It was much more finicky than it might appear, but I'm getting there.

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Thought that I would show how I was filling the blower cutout grooves on the underside of the hood as well.

Just a matter of finding plastic pieces that fit into the grooves, gluing them in place, and then grinding them down.

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Steve

Posted

Steve.

I converted a revell 69 dart into a 68 (before the 68 kit came out) several years back using the aluminum tubing trick. Works like a charm.

 

Just glued the tubing in place and once the car was painted i polished the aluminum tube to look like chrome. Lenses are just elmers glue in the tube and painted with testors clear red.

Posted
43 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

Steve.

I converted a revell 69 dart into a 68 (before the 68 kit came out) several years back using the aluminum tubing trick. Works like a charm.

 

Just glued the tubing in place and once the car was painted i polished the aluminum tube to look like chrome. Lenses are just elmers glue in the tube and painted with testors clear red.

Yeah, I was pretty sure that I had seen this several times elsewhere.

Just wasn't sure where.

 

This is the first time I've had a chance to fiddle with it.

I don't believe that I've done a car with round markers before, so I hadn't thought about it much until now.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Posted
8 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Thank you guys!

 

 

Still working on some engineering to get the Revell Charger parts to fit the Coronet.

 

Been spending some time modifying engine compartment parts to fit.

It was much more finicky than it might appear, but I'm getting there.

image.jpeg.5d0dff31c9fc080fddbac10d14d7947a.jpeg

image.jpeg.2a75d439d805c8f5351662b9963f302b.jpeg

image.jpeg.dff05a60e71df487f5fab4067c62e39a.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Thought that I would show how I was filling the blower cutout grooves on the underside of the hood as well.

Just a matter of finding plastic pieces that fit into the grooves, gluing them in place, and then grinding them down.

image.jpeg.83a63b80212e33fb097f2ea629a92e58.jpeg

image.jpeg.c4d5e8c424079b68f0b38ca40f50e6b9.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Steve, I do a bunch of watching and observing on your WIP then commenting but that’s a really nice touch on the hood cut out...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/5/2020 at 12:01 AM, slusher said:

Steve, I do a bunch of watching and observing on your WIP then commenting but that’s a really nice touch on the hood cut out...

Thank you Carl.

 

I haven't been able to spend as much time working on this project as I would like, but I have been able to get a few small things underway.

 

The wheel base of the Revell '68 Charger kit is just a bit too long, so I have been spending a small amount of time moving the rear suspension forward rather that shortening the chassis.

Likewise, the rear suspension is a bit too low in correspondence with how the chassis needs to sit in the body, so I've also been working on raising the rear end a bit.

I will also need to widen the track a bit so that the stance looks a little better.

 

I have also re-done the door panel that I had previously finished.

The panel "cupped" somewhat from a little too liberal use of liquid cement, and I wasn't particularly happy with the "finned" portion of the panel anyway, so I purchased a sheet of Evergreen #2545 "Metal Siding" to replace it with and re-built the panel completely.

I'm liking it better.

The real test will be in a little while when I prime it. :)

 

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Steve

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