Where to get decal paper and coating the decal paper questions. questions.

[GMP440]

Wanted to ask where others are getting decal paper from.  I've seen decal paper at Hobby Lobby.  Don't know how good it is.  Also,  what about putting a coating of clear enamel or clear laquer to keep the ink from running? 

 

[Rodent]

59 minutes ago, GMP440 said:

Wanted to ask where others are getting decal paper from.  I've seen decal paper at Hobby Lobby.  Don't know how good it is.  Also,  what about putting a coating of clear enamel or clear laquer to keep the ink from running? 

 

There is decal coating spray, but I have had good luck with regular clear flat Krylon. I use the Testors paper from my LHS. I am by no means a "power" decal maker. It's typically just underhood decals and small stuff like that.

[Erik Smith]

I haven't noticed a huge difference in most of the decal papers. I used to use papillon (not available anymore that i know of), Bare Metal Foil brand, Testors, and one other i can't remember. It seems the white is a little thicker generally. 

To seal, I use Deft clear gloss lacquer. 

I had some paper that was old and the ink just pooled up on it, so I don't know if it goes bad or not, or it was just not good paper.

Most of mine are for interior fabric, so you could clear with a semi or flat also, depending on application.

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi George!

Most papers are OK. To improve adhesion, I sand it with 3000 grit sand paper (lightly, of course) before printing it. It avoids ink stayin just on the surface, and usually improves sharpness for darker tones. I've also had good results by running the decal sheet a SECOND time trough the printer, after it was fully dried from the first pass (to avoid smearing). It certainly provides for richer colour (see picture below). 

Finally, I always use the same clear that I will coat the car with to seal the decal before soaking it for application (in light mist coats). This way, I'm certain that the clear coat on the whole car will not cause "silvering" or hazing over the decal surface, due to bad adherence to a different kind of clear used to seal the decal. 

Good luck!

CT

 

[Tom Geiger]

Looks good Claude. Interesting that the two images match up when you run it through the printer the second time!  I’ll have to see if that works with my printer.  I have put one decal on top of another for better coverage.

To answer the original question..  I use the BMF decal paper for inkjet. And the Testors decal fixative spray over.  I usually allow the decal to dry overnight before I spray it, then another overnight before I wet it to affix to a model.  Another key is that I will print several of each decal and use the best images first, and I have extras in case one gets messed up as I’m working.

[SfanGoch]

3 hours ago, Erik Smith said:

I used to use papillon

It's "papilio" and is most definitely still available.

[Erik Smith]

2 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

It's "papilio" and is most definitely still available.

I got excited, well, as excited as one gets about decal paper. But inkjet paper appears to be out of stock. I think it was like that last I tried to refill. Have you ordered from them lately? 

[Aaronw]

6 hours ago, Erik Smith said:

I haven't noticed a huge difference in most of the decal papers. I used to use papillon (not available anymore that i know of), Bare Metal Foil brand, Testors, and one other i can't remember. It seems the white is a little thicker generally. 

To seal, I use Deft clear gloss lacquer. 

I had some paper that was old and the ink just pooled up on it, so I don't know if it goes bad or not, or it was just not good paper.

Most of mine are for interior fabric, so you could clear with a semi or flat also, depending on application.

If you try to use laser printer decal paper with an inkjet it will cause the ink to bead up or pool. Maybe you got a sheet of the wrong kind mixed in. There is something different with the film on Inkjet paper to help it absorb the liquid ink. Lasers use a dry toner that prints on the surface of the film. I've used decal film that was several years old and have never had an issue with it aging, other than some slight yellowing around the edges. 

 

Edited November 25, 2020 by Aaronw

[peteski]

Yes, ink jet and laser/Alps papers are different and have to be used in a printer they were intended for.

Ink jet paper has some sort of liquid ink absorbing coating (gel?) so the ink does no bead or flow out.  If ran through a laser or Alps printed, then can jam them.

Laser paper has smooth surface and liquid inks will bead up on it.

[Straightliner59]

I bought some by Blingasm, on Amazon. I've had very good luck, with it. I use both white and transparent. The decals on these cars were all printed on it. On the Chevy II, only the door decals were printed on it. The others were printed on Testors paper.

[steveracer]

I need some white decal on a sheet, that I can use to cut and apply to a RED paint finish on my Ford GT model.

I thought of masking the white primer, but think good COVERAGE white decal paper may be the best solution over red.

Anyone have any thoughts on what currently available decal paper may work over red?  I do not want to print on it, just cut it to fit the lines down the hood/roof/rear deck of a 2006 style Ford GT.

[Straightliner59]

16 hours ago, steveracer said:

I need some white decal on a sheet, that I can use to cut and apply to a RED paint finish on my Ford GT model.

I thought of masking the white primer, but think good COVERAGE white decal paper may be the best solution over red.

Anyone have any thoughts on what currently available decal paper may work over red?  I do not want to print on it, just cut it to fit the lines down the hood/roof/rear deck of a 2006 style Ford GT.

I used Blingasm white inkjet paper for the decals above. I've had good luck, with it. Once they're printed, I shoot them with Krylon Crystal Clear.