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Posted

Thanks for looking everyone.

I think I'll just go with what I have...I need to start burning down that stash pile...and use these parts.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

Resurrecting this build after finishing other projects.

The interior was completed but fitting it inside the body shell was a bear.

Found a kit review that acknowledged there is a trick to getting that interior inserted past the narrow bottom of the body shell

Wiring the flathead, reevaluating the paint job and checking the suspension/stance.

32sedanprogress.jpg.c22f19ad00b614944261d48797c5e59d.jpgRevellFordTudorSedaninteriorfit.jpg.7ef91bdd5d5a025fae48c6ebad5333d3.jpg

 

32 sedan flathead.jpg

32 sedan stance.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
  • Like 8
Posted
49 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

Resurrecting this build after finishing other projects.

The interior was completed but fitting it inside the body shell was a bear.

Found a kit review that acknowledged there is a trick to getting that interior inserted past the narrow bottom of the body shell

Wiring the flathead, reevaluating the paint job and checking the suspension/stance.

32sedanprogress.jpg.c22f19ad00b614944261d48797c5e59d.jpgRevellFordTudorSedaninteriorfit.jpg.7ef91bdd5d5a025fae48c6ebad5333d3.jpg

 

32 sedan flathead.jpg

32 sedan stance.jpg

Lookin' sinister !

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hard to beat a black, chopped 32 sedan, so I'm glad to see you back at this one. I've said it before, but those wheels are killer. I have a set somewhere in my stash.

Posted
On 4/4/2024 at 2:02 PM, Mr. Metallic said:

Hard to beat a black, chopped 32 sedan, so I'm glad to see you back at this one. I've said it before, but those wheels are killer. I have a set somewhere in my stash.

If you ever decide to sell that set, let me know.

I'd like to try one again.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Getting closer to finishing this.

Pulled all the masking tape off after doing the last round of polishing (done as much as I can do with the paint job - at my skill level). I see a lot of dried polishing compound in the recessed panel lines and door joints.

Need to clean those up - hopefully w/o messing up the paint finish.

Got a set of headlights from Replicas and Miniatures that fit alongside the grill shell, and I found some old-fashioned hairpin radius rods in the parts stash that I'm putting AK chrome on.

The fabricated exhaust pipes and mufflers were a real pain to route through the drive train and connect to the aftermarket Fenton headers on the flathead engine at this stage of the build ...I won't ever make that mistake again.

Did a component mockup (with some background of a local cemetery) for a progress photo.

What's left to do:

Now that the grill shell is permanently installed to the chassis, I can attach the engine radiator hoses to the grill/radiator, and if I can get a good fit on the firewall and hood (fingers crossed) I can add the vintage beehive oil filter and the last of the wiring from the firewall. 

I chromed a set of body mounted teardrop taillights, but now I'm thinking I'd rather do a set that mounts on the rear frame rather than the body shell. Looking thru the parts stash.

Need license plates and some scary club plaques. Maybe a classic pin stripe decal for the back end.

32 tudor sedan 2.jpg

32 tudor sedan 1.jpg

32 tudor sedan 3 Flathead.jpg

32 tudor sedan dual exhaust.jpg

32 tudor sedan drive train exhaust 2.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
  • Like 4
Posted

Looks really great. In my opinion these wheels just take the build to a whole different level. 

I just can't figure out your suspension set up. I don't see any shocks front or aft. Also curious to see how you are going to address the steering. 

The chop, the stance, the hopped up motor...everything is just right. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mrm said:

Looks really great. In my opinion these wheels just take the build to a whole different level. 

I just can't figure out your suspension set up. I don't see any shocks front or aft. Also curious to see how you are going to address the steering. 

The chop, the stance, the hopped up motor...everything is just right. 

You are correct, you got a good eye. I need to get the drag link installed, which needs to coordinate with the location of the radius rods.

While there are leaf springs fore and aft, - I had some scratch built tubular shocks that probably went by the wayside when I had to deal with a difficult kit problem - the steering arms: (the kit location is at the top of the wheel backs - instead of the correct location with most real cars   - on the bottom of the wheel back).

I had a lengthy discussion on another forum as to why I had the steering arms on the top rather than the bottom of the front wheels. When I posted the instruction sheets, the response was: "instruction sheets are just an opinion". LOL.

I don't know why these otherwise nice kits have the steering arms like this...while I love the detailed and articulated Revell front axles (29 Ford Rat Rod and the model A), this does create a problem on how to route the tie rod with steering arms like that. In my case I didn't want to put it through the engine compartment.

Getting the very lowered front end for the desired stance resulted in a lot of back and forth on how to set the front axle. I ended up with the front leaf spring set behind the front axle as the solution.

Anyway, I probably set aside the tubular shocks while getting those steering arms sorted out - along with getting all the other components figured out.

FWIW: Saw some 1:1 cars (inc. a '32 sedan as shown here) with the leaf spring behind the front axle, and had no tubular shocks in the front, so I guess I stopped thinking about them at some point.

I do think I should use those tubular shocks I made - in the rear and attach the front leaf spring to the front axle.

Guess I'm not done yet   :  )

Thanks.

693.jpg.eb2e38b1513633d5055d9448e6c2ced4.jpg

29front axle steering arm 1.jpg

29frontaxle steering arm 2.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
  • Like 1
Posted
52 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

You are correct, you got a good eye.

While there are leaf springs fore and aft, - I had some scratch built tubular shocks that probably went by the wayside when I had to deal with a difficult kit problem - the steering arms: (located on the top of the wheel backs - instead of the correct location on the bottom - as with most real cars)

I had a lengthy discussion on another forum as to why I had the steering arms on the top rather than the bottom of the front wheels. When I showed the instruction sheets, the response was: "instruction sheets are just an opinion". LOL.

I don't know why these kits have the steering arms like this...while I love the detailed and articulated Revell front axles (29 Ford Rat Rod 2 n 1, and the model A), this does create a problem on how to route the tie rod

with steering arms like that. In my case I didn't want to put it through the engine compartment.

Getting the desired very lowered front end in order to get the stance resulted in a lot of back and forth on how to set the front axle. I ended up with the front leaf spring set behind the front axle as the solution.

Anyway, I probably set aside the tubular shocks while getting those steering arms sorted out - along with getting all the other components figured out.

FWIW: Saw some 1:1 cars (inc. a '32 sedan) that had no tubular shocks in the front, so I guess I stopped thinking about them at some point.

I do think I should use those tubular shocks I made - in the rear, attach the front leaf spring to the axle.

Guess I'm not done yet : )

693.jpg.eb2e38b1513633d5055d9448e6c2ced4.jpg

29front axle steering arm 1.jpg

29frontaxle steering arm 2.jpg

What I meant was what steering you're going to use? Like the steering box and linkage that connects the steering wheel to the front wheels. 

The Tudor Sedan on your picture does not have tubular shocks visible, because it uses friction shocks mounted on the side of the rails. 

Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, mrm said:

What I meant was what steering you're going to use? Like the steering box and linkage that connects the steering wheel to the front wheels. 

The Tudor Sedan on your picture does not have tubular shocks visible, because it uses friction shocks mounted on the side of the rails. 

Ok...if I don't use the tubular shocks in front..it needs something like this.

 

Thanks Michael...good insight.

friction shocks.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

Ok...if I don't use the tubular shocks in front..it needs something like this.

 

Thanks Michael...good insight.

friction shocks.jpg

Thats a rather unusual set up. I believe the Tudor from your picture uses friction shocks that are parallel to the frame horns. Like these:

 

8941_ArticleSection_XL_ca2471cf-040a-487b-bc36-0933d968af2f.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
26 minutes ago, mrm said:

Thats a rather unusual set up. I believe the Tudor from your picture uses friction shocks that are parallel to the frame horns. Like these:

 

8941_ArticleSection_XL_ca2471cf-040a-487b-bc36-0933d968af2f.jpg

I see.

I like the parallel to frame position much better.

I'll see what I can rig up.

Posted (edited)
On 5/23/2024 at 10:34 PM, SpeedShift said:

I see.

I like the parallel to frame position much better.

I'll see what I can rig up.

After some discussion on the suspension, I crafted two tubular shocks from aluminum tubing for the rear end, and I'm reworking the leaf spring on the front. 

I like polishing aluminum tubing with micro mesh 3600 and 12000, looks as good as the chrome paints, and much better than Alclad, which doesn't take handling very well.

32 tudor sedan tubular shocks.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
Posted

Great looking ride! I use tooth picks to remove unwanted compound from cracks and crevices.

Look up Houdaille shocks. That's the name of the company that built the friction shocks. 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

After some discussion on the suspension, I crafted two tubular shocks from aluminum tubing for the rear end, and I'm reworking the leaf spring on the front. 

I like polishing aluminum tubing with micro mesh 3600 and 12000, looks as good as the chrome paints, and much better than Alclad, which doesn't take handling very well.

32 tudor sedan tubular shocks.jpg

Those look absolutely stunning. They will make a world of difference at the rear. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Checking out the rear view...exhaust tailpipes from 1/8" aluminum tube attached. 

Thinking where to mount taillights, a license plate, maybe a white pinstripe decal if I can find a good one.

On the front, need to install the steering link after I attach the radius rods.

Getting closer to finishing this, .......again. LOL

 

32 tudor sedan rear 1.jpg

32 tudor sedam rear 2.jpg

Edited by SpeedShift
  • Like 2

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