(HRM) Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe

[Venom]

4 hours ago, Bainford said:

Great save on the clear coat. Very impressed with the paint on this. It looks fantastic.

Thanks a bunch Trevor!

It’s starting to look like I’ll probably be going with #CSX2300, or #CSX2601 (Nürburgring #54 car). It will depend on whether or not I can get the correct decals that I’m lacking for #CSX2300... There’s also a possibility I will do a #98 tribute version in my own tastes. Who knows ????

Edited March 5, 2021 by Venom

[Bainford]

I saw your call for decals and I was sure I had the correct Castrol in my large collection of vintage contingency decals, but no go. Good luck on your quest. It's pleasing to go the extra mile to get these details right. The vintage Ferodo decal may be particularly hard to find.

[89AKurt]

On 2/19/2021 at 4:09 PM, Venom said:

[...]

[...]

?  Love your photo descriptions.  You're doing some things I have never tried, like using water based paints!   Your cat grey striped? ?

[Venom]

1 hour ago, Bainford said:

I saw your call for decals and I was sure I had the correct Castrol in my large collection of vintage contingency decals, but no go. Good luck on your quest. It's pleasing to go the extra mile to get these details right. The vintage Ferodo decal may be particularly hard to find.

Thanks for looking Trevor ... I think I may have just scored on the decals ... we shall see.

1 hour ago, 89AKurt said:

?  Love your photo descriptions.  You're doing some things I have never tried, like using water based paints!   Your cat grey striped? ?

Haha, thanks Kurt. Yeah, the water base is really only so I can be non toxic ... something me and the cats both appreciate.. and yes, well..more like grey swirl.?

Edited March 5, 2021 by Venom

[MarkJ]

I'm  going back to water base paint next build and get this, I'm going to brush paint everything. A guy on another board showed us his brush painting work and told how he did it and it got my interest up enough to try to do it myself. He has a process that eliminates bristle marks. The finish is dull but I've been polishing my last few builds anyway and you show how acrylic paint can be glossy if polished. I will no longer have to worry about the weather or go outside to paint. I can paint in exactly the same place I build because of the non toxic qualities of the paint. And there wont be any exhaust hood necessary. Hoping I can get the same results he gets and you of course on the polishing side. I will be using Createx and Vallejo paints . 

[Venom]

2 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I'm  going back to water base paint next build and get this, I'm going to brush paint everything. A guy on another board showed us his brush painting work and told how he did it and it got my interest up enough to try to do it myself. He has a process that eliminates bristle marks. The finish is dull but I've been polishing my last few builds anyway and you show how acrylic paint can be glossy if polished. I will no longer have to worry about the weather or go outside to paint. I can paint in exactly the same place I build because of the non toxic qualities of the paint. And there wont be any exhaust hood necessary. Hoping I can get the same results he gets and you of course on the polishing side. I will be using Createx and Vallejo paints . 

That sounds interesting Mark and I really hope it works for you! I certainly will be looking forward to seeing the results you get. I’m sure there’s going to be some trial and error learning involved. If you use the same clear as me and brush it on, you won’t need the reducer, however having it thinned down works nicely for some other things like going over small decals with a detail brush to seal them. Also as a note, I never do any sanding on the paint ... only the clearcoat. Not saying it can’t be done, but in my experiences it tends to alter the color slightly where the paint is sanded, and sometimes scratches easily too.

****Edit: Just an FYI...I should probably note for others who are reading this (regarding the non-toxic aspect) that these paints I’m using are not truely non-toxic when sprayed in the air. The manufacturer recommends using a respirator, which I do at times. Also, reguarding my animals, I do not allow them in the same room as me while I’m airbrushing until after any mist in the air has dissipated. I do use an exhaust fan that I built myself that works with probably around 75% effectiveness, but from time to time it creates a little blowback, which is when I put the respirator on. There are, in essence, no fumes, but it is considered a health hazard to inhale the mist, and it can also cause irritation to the eyes and enter your body that way too.

Edited March 5, 2021 by Venom

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Venom said:

That sounds interesting Mark and I really hope it works for you! I certainly will be looking forward to seeing the results you get. I’m sure there’s going to be some trial and error learning involved. If you use the same clear as me and brush it on, you won’t need the reducer, however having it thinned down works nicely for some other things like going over small decals with a detail brush to seal them. Also as a note, I never do any sanding on the paint ... only the clearcoat. Not saying it can’t be done, but in my experiences it tends to alter the color slightly where the paint is sanded, and sometimes scratches easily too.

****Edit: Just an FYI...I should probably note for others who are reading this (regarding the non-toxic aspect) that these paints I’m using are not truely non-toxic when sprayed in the air. The manufacturer recommends using a respirator, which I do at times. Also, reguarding my animals, I do not allow them in the same room as me while I’m airbrushing until after any mist in the air has dissipated. I do use an exhaust fan that I built myself that works with probably around 75% effectiveness, but from time to time it creates a little blowback, which is when I put the respirator on. There are, in essence, no fumes, but it is considered a health hazard to inhale the mist, and it can also cause irritation to the eyes and enter your body that way too.

Yes, Josh. There is going to be a lot of trial and error involved with this new process but I really like the pluses involved with it. Hope it works.

[Venom]

Hi all! I was really hoping to have more than this to post for now, but these gosh darn 40 hour work weeks can really take it out of a guy sometimes ... whoever invented it obviously wasn’t into model building. The good news is that I’m planning to do some more stuff this weekend, so maybe I’ll have something more to post in a couple days.

I have gotten a lot of the smaller parts detail painted with a brush however, so that will speed some steps up when I get to them. It’s a lot different without the parts on trees ... you gotta find ways to hold an secure them while you paint them.

[absmiami]

Nailed them tires ...

[MarkJ]

Some more awesome work going on here, Josh. The tire decals turned out perfect. Tell me more about the adhesive chrome vinyl.

[Venom]

47 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Some more awesome work going on here, Josh. The tire decals turned out perfect. Tell me more about the adhesive chrome vinyl.

Thank you Mark.

I posted a tutorial on here some time back about the chrome vinyl ... here is the link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/156909-chrome-vinyl-details-from-scratch/

 

[cobraman]

This is going to be one beautiful Cobra.

[Venom]

10 hours ago, absmiami said:

Nailed them tires ...

Thanks Andrew ... lots of new experiences for me here

 

27 minutes ago, cobraman said:

This is going to be one beautiful Cobra.

Thanks Ray ... I’m sure hoping it will be!

[Bainford]

Excellent work on the tires. They look fantastic. Clean mounting of the scoops. Nice work all around. I appreciate the comprehensive documentation of the build. 

[Venom]

9 hours ago, Bainford said:

Excellent work on the tires. They look fantastic. Clean mounting of the scoops. Nice work all around. I appreciate the comprehensive documentation of the build. 

Thanks Trevor ... I’m currently working on a mounting setup for the spare tire. I’ll get the pics of that up later. Seat belts and buckles are also on my list to accomplish by tomorrow evening. Hopefully I can get a couple more things than that done also, but the belts, buckles, and spare tire are the priorities.

[89AKurt]

Coming along beautifully!  Love the tape idea, why didn't I think of that? ?

[MarkJ]

22 hours ago, Venom said:

Thank you Mark.

I posted a tutorial on here some time back about the chrome vinyl ... here is the link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/156909-chrome-vinyl-details-from-scratch/

 

Thanks for the tip on the chrome vinyl. I was hoping it could be purchased some where. You can see that in some situations it would be better to use then bare metal foil.

[Venom]

9 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Coming along beautifully!  Love the tape idea, why didn't I think of that? ?

Thanks Kurt! ...

Heres a bit more progress I got done last night ... Hoping to get belts and buckles made and posted by sometime later tonight also

.

 

[afx]

Clever work on the bungees.

[stinkybritches]

Great stuff in the last batch of pictures.

[Venom]

7 hours ago, afx said:

Clever work on the bungees.

 

7 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

Great stuff in the last batch of pictures.

Thanks guys. We’re in the middle of a major snow event up here so I’ve spent the majority of the day shoveling tons of snow, slush and ice. My goal has been to get seatbelts and buckles done by sometime this evening also ... I am so pooped! ... Maybe after I eat I’ll get back in the groove.

[MarkJ]

My gosh, Josh . Between the steering wheel chrome core you cut out and the spare tire hold down bungees, I cant decide which is more through the roof Awesome. Amazing work you got going on here.

[Venom]

On 3/16/2021 at 2:45 PM, MarkJ said:

My gosh, Josh . Between the steering wheel chrome core you cut out and the spare tire hold down bungees, I cant decide which is more through the roof Awesome. Amazing work you got going on here.

Thank you Mark!

Hey all, I got the three-piece roll bar glued in place and the rear sail panels, so I thought I’d combine the chassis and floor pan together for some pics to give a good idea of overall progress minus the body. The floor pan, seats and chassis are not glued together yet. I need to get a few more things done before I can do that. 

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by Venom

[MarkJ]

I wonder why they made them carry a spare tire in these race cars back then. I noticed the Grand Sport has one, and it looks like a front tire and wheel  off a usac sprint car of that time frame. I noticed the roll bar in your cobra, and at first I didnt think the grand sport had one but I spotted one the other day in a ref picture. It appears to be a single halo bar that follows the roof and down the b pillars right behind the door openings. Again, your build is coming along excellently.

Edited March 18, 2021 by MarkJ

[Venom]

I didn’t know either Mark, I just now learned this for myself... It was a requirement in the FIA rulebook for GT cars. This link is where I read it. (Article 253 noted towards bottom of the post) http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-odd-spare-tire-in-australias-racing.html

Edited March 18, 2021 by Venom