'27 T Traditional Hot Rod

[tim boyd]

5 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

 

You what...I'll bet Tim knows...he has written and sourced parts from just about every dragster/roadster kit released.

HHaahhh!!!   But since you asked, the hairpins from the image well up this page (9:22pm on 1/22/21) are from the AMT '25T Double Kit.....TIM 

PS - Great color choice, that Testors Ford Ultraviolet Metallic!!!!   TB

 

Edited January 24, 2021 by tim boyd

[Bullybeef]

2 minutes ago, tim boyd said:

HHaahhh!!!   But since you asked, the hairpins from the image well up this page (9:22pm on 1/22/21) are from the AMT '25T Double Kit.....TIM 

Good deal, I have that kit!

thank you 

[SpeedShift]

22 hours ago, alan barton said:

Wow - you nailed the colour scheme for the car. I have a very similar colour scheme on a 30 Woody and it really pops!  Stance is looking really good as well.  I have a Jimmy Flintstone body somewhere to be built in a near identical theme to this but in my head it was going to be dark metallic green with apple green wires and grille - sad thing is it is still only in my head!

Cheers

Alan

P.S. never knew about that trailer in the Attempt 1 kit - i got several of the 80s/90s version but not this one.  Another trailer to hunt for!

Cheers

Alan

Thanks Alan....dark metallic green with apple green wires...NICE!  do a build thread !

[SpeedShift]

Working on the flathead exhaust headers....this is a R&M part...will need to break out some K&S aluminum tubing or brass rod...for the extensions and under frame mufflers.

[SpeedShift]

Cleaning up the interior, chopping a windshield frame next.

[SpeedShift]

Worked on the exhaust headers....R&M #DD-10 - Cut off the collector on the end of each resin piece, bent a piece of 3/32 inch aluminum tube (using a styrene rod insert to prevent kinking) to fit over the 1/16 inch of each header.
Filed the tubing sides to taper the joint to match resin header OD. Headers will be plugged type for street.
Measuring exhaust extension to connect to the plugged headers and fit under frame with dual exhaust mufflers.

[slusher]

Great color to go with the white interior...

[SpeedShift]

Having some issues routing the dual exhausts from the plugged headers.

I can only bend aluminum tube so much w/o kinking or breaking.

I got thee minor bends using finger pressure with a styrene rod inserted in each to prevent kinking.

 

 

 

 

[SpeedShift]

Decided to look at an alternative to hanging the exhaust pipes and mufflers under the axle.

Did not want to figure out how to put the necessary sharp bends in aluminum tubing to route it thru the leaf spring and rear axle.....the exhaust train from the Revell Model A roadster looks like it will fit.

I got a set of headers from Replicas and Miniatures , applied Alclad to these.

 

 

[Kit Karson]

This is coming together wonderfully! Creating the right interior for a roadster is tough, right @tim boyd? I modified the interior so that it would wrap around the tub body in my Oldster:

https://public.fotki.com/jferren/kit-karsons-oldster/

[tim boyd]

1 hour ago, Kit Karson said:

This is coming together wonderfully! Creating the right interior for a roadster is tough, right @tim boyd? I modified the interior so that it would wrap around the tub body in my Oldster:

https://public.fotki.com/jferren/kit-karsons-oldster/

Those are the interior pieces from the Revell Highboy Roadster kit, correct?  They sure seem to fit nicely (either that, or you did a ton of work to make them look that way, right?!!!!).  Thanks for the idea....TIM 

[Kit Karson]

7 hours ago, tim boyd said:

Those are the interior pieces from the Revell Highboy Roadster kit, correct?  They sure seem to fit nicely (either that, or you did a ton of work to make them look that way, right?!!!!).  Thanks for the idea....TIM 

'32 Roadster Interior and a bit of work...

and, scratch tuck-n-roll is a challenge, too! -KK

B-32 Tubster

http://public.fotki.com/jferren/kit-karsons-32-tubster/

[SpeedShift]

Fantastic work guys.

[Bernard Kron]

Beautiful work you're doing here. I did a 27T hiboy several years ago and I can report that this was among the most challenging projects I gad attempted up to that point. In particular is the fact that there are virtually zero parts that are a straight fit for the body shell, not chassis, nt interior bits, nor windshield. That model has I built has suffered over the years and needs either a re-do or perhaps an entire second version. I've already noted the gorgeous interior you've crafted and I'm looking forward to you tackling the windshield. How did you maintain the curvature of the seat back during fabrication?

On 1/22/2021 at 3:54 PM, SpeedShift said:

Had to scratch build an interior for the body shell. Plastic sheet and evergreen strip provides the tuck and roll. 

 

On 1/22/2021 at 3:56 PM, SpeedShift said:

 

Here's a composite pic of my first attempt, which was on Revell '32 Ford rails.

[SpeedShift]

That's a really good looking 27 T you built there. I see you placed it on a 32 frame and it sits well.

I debated using a '32 frame but wanted to try a Z'd model A frame and was following some tips I had read in Plastic Fanatic at the time (Dan Harrison's excellent five part series "A Tale of Two Roadsters - a great read).

On the curved interior...I should have taken more pictures back when I started.

The curved seat back is held temporarily in place when inserted into the cockpit, and I think I glued the edges of that to each R & L door side panels .

What I would call the coaming (for lack of a better term) that runs along the top/rear is also curved and the helps hold the curved seat back.

I put dabs of Milliput epoxy putty on each corner underneath (see picture) and after it set up,  it held the shape pretty good permanently for future trial fitting, sanding etc..

The windshield, yeah, I think looking for that and headlight brackets is where I got sidetracked and set this project aside.

My brother builds and posts here (and TRAK) he just sent me a windshield frame that fits well, (not sure where he got it) but it looks a little tall, even after I trimmed the top a bit ( like in this picture from Dain Gingerelli's nice "Ford Hot Rods")

Debating what to do with it....where did you source yours?

 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2021 by SpeedShift

[Bernard Kron]

30 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

...

The windshield, yeah, I think looking for that and headlight brackets is where I got sidetracked and set this project aside.

My brother builds and posts here (and TRAK) he just sent me a windshield frame that fits well, (not sure where he got it) but it looks a little tall, even after I trimmed the top a bit.

Debating what to do with it....where did you source yours?

Thanks!

And thanks for the detailed explanation. The back of the seat is the #1 challenge on these 27T's and is the main reason I've only ever done 2 street rods using that body, even though I think a well done 27T looks better than just about any other fenderless street rod, even Deuces, of which I've built far too many, LOL.

The windshield is from the AMT '27T Touring and is a perfect fit and proportion for virtually all the resin 27T buckets out there. It's simply the lower half. IIRC it was given to me by Bill Engwer (Ace-Garageguy) after someone else (who I have since forgotten) told me that's what they used. It's times like that that I wish I had mastered resin casting, because, along with a proper generic seat back back module, I would cast these up and build lots more 27's.

Regarding the headlight brackets the easy option should be the one's from the Revell 1/25th Deuces, with or without the tubular shocks, depending on your requirements. That's another resin cast wish list item for prolific hot rod builders like myself. The other generic solution is the bracket and headlight combo from the AMT 25T's. They have been re-popped by ThePartsBox.com.

BTW, the Revell Deuce rails under my 27T are z'd as well. Adapting them to the narrower 27T is simply a matter of cutting them from the molded in floor panel. I even re-used the Revell floor once I had narrowed it. I had thought this would be one of the bigger challenges in the project, but actually it was all pretty simple and straightforward. 27T highboys aren't that common, but if you can get the stance right they are very cool indeed!

Edited February 16, 2021 by Bernard Kron

[styromaniac]

The windshield I sent you actually came from the AMT '27 Touring  ( Tub ) kit...which used to be one half of the venerable AMT XR6 / '27 T Ford Double Kit. It might be a little tall for your use, but the curvature at the bottom should be pretty close.

Edited February 16, 2021 by styromaniac

[SpeedShift]

Finally got enough white base coat on the seats to apply a final pearl finish - and then masked off the seats to paint pleated inserts black.

[Paul Payne]

Very nice period project- your construction photos are great- looking forward to more!

[SpeedShift]

Thanks. 

I did a tape together mock up to check things over.
The steelie wheels have trim rings installed, will get chrome baby moons.

Engine has exhaust system in ALCLAD, but needs all the hop up parts.

Chassis needs some detailing, tie rods and drag link.

The interior needs dash board, gauges and steering column.

Windshield frame is chromed, as are headlight brackets. Think I've sourced some vintage tear drop tail lights. 

Think I see light at the end of the tunnel, might get this one done.

 

[styromaniac]

So far...so good. Really like that color combination.

[Kromolly]

Very cool build of a period hot rod.  Love it!

[SpeedShift]

Worked on the engine.............

[SpeedShift]

I took a look at this project again and would like to finish it, now that other projects are completed.

The paint job is not one of my best as the rattle can Testors Custom Lacquer Ultraviolet Pearl doesn't have the gloss I would have liked, and there are some bad areas on the body shell where the paint collected on ridge lines and outgassed tiny micro bubbles. They left some tiny pitting in the surface when dry.

I took another look and decided some areas needed attention, so I tried some wet sanding to get rid of the bubble pitting, and repainted using the same paint but decanted this time into a jar and letting the paint outgas the frothing little bubbles before airbrushing. Did better this time, wished I had done the decanting method the first time.

Was a bit risky as this Testors paint is no longer available since I started this build years ago, so the one can I have is all there is, and there is leaking/dried bubbles around the bottom seam of the can. 

Looking to try other paints.

Time to transition to MCW paint on future projects.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 21, 2024 by SpeedShift

[TopherMcGinnis]

MCW paints are great. I've used their lacquer with great results. Their factory colors are spot on. I like Createx paints as well. I painted the Chevelle with MCW lacquer Tahitian Turquoise and the bike with Createx(can't recall the name right off).