Moebius 1970 F-100 4WD to 1969 F-250 2WD

[Beans]

Replicated my 1:1 project truck with the 1/25 scale Moebius 1970 kit.

Made some modifications along the way to turn it into my 1969 F250

On the inside I upholstered the seat, added a dash pad, scratch built steering wheel, added column shift (automatic trans) and turn signal lever, added triple gauges, trailer brake box and fuel tank selector switch.  I built a floor storage box thing and changed clutch pedal to parking brake pedal.  Finally I added seatbelts, a headliner and dome light.

 

[Beans]

I used the B n L Resins Ford 390 engine to replace the kit engine but modified the kit air cleaner and used that.  I used the front end from a 1971 kit for the front suspension and drive line and added an auxiliary fuel tank.  Put the kit tires on a set of Scenes Unlimited 16" 8 lug wheels and changed from two into one to dual exhaust.  Also scratch build a power steering pump and added that to the engine.

I had to sand off the molded on trim on the body.

Edited January 3, 2022 by Beans

[Beans]

I plumbed and wired everything I cared to under the hood.

On the outside I added the auxiliary fuel cap and fuel line cover to the bed interior.  I also cut in the bed rail holes which are never present in truck models for some reason.  I had to modify a 1968 grill with a wider center piece since I couldn't find a 1969 grill and modified the rear tail lights to fit without the chrome trim.  Added front and rear side marker lights and an antenna and used the Olson Brothers rear bumper.  I used some black tape to replicate the rear slider window and had to build a whole new windshield because I destroyed the kit one.  

[Beans]

Didn't put mirror on yet.  The kit ones are wrong for my specific replication and haven't sourced new ones yet.  

Here are a couple comparison pictures from the model to the real thing

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[TarheelRick]

Looking mighty good.  You got the "color" almost spot on.  Nice representation.

[Cool Hand]

Well done replicating your truck, can see you put in a lot of effort with the detail work.

Edited January 3, 2022 by Cool Hand

[Jim B]

Awesome job!  Well done.

[Classicgas]

Well done sir. 

[espo]

Looks great. Always fun to build a model of your driver, present or past. I like all the natural looking finishes as well. 

[NOBLNG]

Well done Joe! That engine bay looks awesome, and the whole thing looks very true to the real one. ?

[Beans]

Thanks everybody.  The support here is always encouraging.  

[ChrisR]

Very nice replica!

[happy grumpy]

That engine bay is absolutely awesome. That is  one well build replica.

[Matt T.]

A perfect replica! Well done. I really like the light patina on the body and the bed floor looks perfect - just like many 1:1s I’ve seen. Can you share your methods for weathering? I’m about to try weathering my ‘67 4x4 build. Thanks!

[PappyD340]

Really nice!

[Beans]

On 1/4/2022 at 9:37 PM, Matt T. said:

A perfect replica! Well done. I really like the light patina on the body and the bed floor looks perfect - just like many 1:1s I’ve seen. Can you share your methods for weathering? I’m about to try weathering my ‘67 4x4 build. Thanks!

Thanks Matt,

I will try my best to outline my "process".  A lot of it is trial and error.  

Dremel any holes I want before primer.

Primer and paint (keeping to only 1 or 2 coats of body color in areas I am going to distress.

lightly sand through paint to show primer.  

Rust colored paint painted on then dabbed or dry brushed around that to fade it out.

For highly textured areas, I take some weathering pastels, run them over sandpaper and sprinkle some of that (as close to the color I want) onto the wet paint.  It forms a kind of lumpy mush.

Once that is dried I will black wash then rust color wash the area.

Then using lighter rust toned paint, dry brush a highlighted area and blend.

Then if I think it needs a little more or some all over rusty tint, I will dry brush pastels across a bigger area.

 

For non rusty but weathered or oxidized areas, I will dry brush some light grey or white pastels onto the body after I have done a black wash (or light brown or even green) and it has dried.  

I will also paint chrome parts flat aluminum or simply spray them with a dull flat coat to make them look more tarnished and worn.  

I hope this helps and sorry I didn't take pictures along the way. I will try to create something more tutorial-ish next time I weather a model.

Feel free to reach out directly if you have any questions.

[Matt T.]

3 hours ago, Beans said:

Thanks Matt,

I will try my best to outline my "process".  A lot of it is trial and error.  

Dremel any holes I want before primer.

Primer and paint (keeping to only 1 or 2 coats of body color in areas I am going to distress.

lightly sand through paint to show primer.  

Rust colored paint painted on then dabbed or dry brushed around that to fade it out.

For highly textured areas, I take some weathering pastels, run them over sandpaper and sprinkle some of that (as close to the color I want) onto the wet paint.  It forms a kind of lumpy mush.

Once that is dried I will black wash then rust color wash the area.

Then using lighter rust toned paint, dry brush a highlighted area and blend.

Then if I think it needs a little more or some all over rusty tint, I will dry brush pastels across a bigger area.

 

For non rusty but weathered or oxidized areas, I will dry brush some light grey or white pastels onto the body after I have done a black wash (or light brown or even green) and it has dried.  

I will also paint chrome parts flat aluminum or simply spray them with a dull flat coat to make them look more tarnished and worn.  

I hope this helps and sorry I didn't take pictures along the way. I will try to create something more tutorial-ish next time I weather a model.

Feel free to reach out directly if you have any questions.

Thank you! Very big help. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain. I’ll get started on mine and PM you if needed. 

[DRIPTROIT 71]

You really captured the 1:1! Nice work under the hood too! Looks great!