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Revell Beretta Pro Street


crowe-t

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I got a bit more work done.  I started adding the ground effects on the lower quarter panels behind the rear wheel openings.  They're still rough now and need some more work.

The transmission tunnel is now glued in and I put more bars in the roll cage.  There's another bar on the right side of the drivers seat to make the funny car style cage and 2 bars extending the cage into the trunk.

I'm still deciding if I should open up the bottom of the floor to expose the driveshaft and add some bars to get rid of the belly pan look.  I'll most likely do it.

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I've always liked these cars and it was a shame that GM didn't do anything more with them than they did on the street versions. They had something about 'em.....just a cool lookin' car from about every angle. It only gets better in Pro Street form and you're doing a great job bringing this one to life. 

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5 hours ago, mustang1989 said:

I've always liked these cars and it was a shame that GM didn't do anything more with them than they did on the street versions. They had something about 'em.....just a cool lookin' car from about every angle. It only gets better in Pro Street form and you're doing a great job bringing this one to life. 

Thanks Joe!  I always felt the same way about the Beretta.  I generally don't like cars past the 70's but the Beretta was something special.  It has great lines.  I especially like them done up as Pro Stock and Pro Street.  

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I opened up the bottom of the floor below the transmission tunnel and added chassis rails.  The belly pan wasn't doing it. lol

I used a file and made grooves to fit the rods into.  I cheated it a bit and used 1.6 mm styrene rods instead of the 2 mm rods.  The kit's front chassis rails are actually above the floor instead of below it like on most tube chassis'.  I sanded the floor as much as I could and then extended the front chassis rails back with some 2 mm half round rods that I thinned a bit to match the 1.6 mm rods more closely.  The 1.6 mm rods match better with the 2 mm half round rods since they don't stick up as much as 2 mm rods would have.  Since the bottom of the floor is narrow the 1.6 mm rods just look better.  I still have to extend the rods in the area of the floor between the wheel tubs.

I had to compromise a bit but overall it's not bad and I feel it looks better than the 'Dobbertin' belly pan. 

I might remove the 2 mm half round rods and use 1.6 mm rods to blend into the front frame rails. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
41 minutes ago, chris chabre said:

I liked the belly Pan BUT I get why you did what you did and it looks awesome!

Thanks Chris!  The belly pan was OK but was too close to the Dobbertin J-2000 that this chassis is based on.  I wanted to make it look like a regular tube chassis.

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1 hour ago, mustang1989 said:

Very nice work on the bottom of that car Mike. Little bits all keep adding up man.

Thanks Joe!  I did a bit more and have to take pictures.  I'll get some pictures up here in a day or so.

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Michael, I mostly have picked up this kit along with its sister Corvette version for the Monocoque Wheels and some other pieces to use on other builds. On more than one occasion I've wondered what it would take to turn either version into a decent looking build of some kind. Well, I now know! You're taking on all of the shortcomings of this kit and are headed to first class results.

Keep up the good work,  Glen

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28 minutes ago, Glen Powers said:

Michael, I mostly have picked up this kit along with its sister Corvette version for the Monocoque Wheels and some other pieces to use on other builds. On more than one occasion I've wondered what it would take to turn either version into a decent looking build of some kind. Well, I now know! You're taking on all of the shortcomings of this kit and are headed to first class results.

Keep up the good work,  Glen

I appreciate the compliment Glen!  The chassis is where a lot of the problem areas are.  Next time I build one I'll most likely use a different chassis.  Possibly from a Revell/Monogram Pro Stock or a Revell Pro Sportsman kit.  This kit's chassis is too stylized and needs work to resemble a standard tube chassis/roll cage.  So far I'm happy with how it's coming.  The one thing I'll most likely leave alone is the angled radiator.  It looks kind of cool and does support the front of the body.  I did start re-shaping the tin area around the engine compartment.  I might get rid of the Chevrolet symbol and shorten that area.   

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a few days I got back to working on this build.  I got rid of the Chevy symbol and re-shaped the tin under the hood.  The cutout around the engine was straight so I angled it and added side pieces that go down into the engine compartment.  I also added two 1.6 mm styrene rods that support the tubing that the coil overs attach to.  I'm not sure I like the angle of the two new rods which I might move.  

So far I'm keeping the radiator at the angle.  I kind of like how it looks angled.   

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I removed the two 1.6 mm styrene rods that I added that support the tubing that the coil overs attach to and made new ones that now attach to diagonal bars on the firewall.  I like how it looks this way instead of how I had them going down to the chassis.  The firewall now has a piece of 1 mm sheet styrene on it to smooth it out and strengthen it.  

I made an MSD 6AL-2 box and a Hurst Line lock.

 

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