Ferrari 330 GTC + 575 M Superamerica Resto-rod

[89AKurt]

Kitbashing the Airtrax Ferrari 330 GTC resin kit with the Revell 575 M Superamerica.  The reason I have always wanted the 330 GTC, when I was a kid, my dad knew someone who had one (and an Aston Martin, and a BMW Bavaria, and a Mercedes 300 SC), and after incessant begging he took me for a ride.  Even though it needed a tuneup, it sure made an impression on me.  Because of this forum, I found the source, so I sprung for it.  Found the pictures online, to print out for the box art.  The body appears to be accurate, the photo-etch is really nice even though there is no "Ferrari" or Prancing Horse emblems (have that covered).  You need to provide tires, and a chassis, I guess the 250 SWB or 275 GTB/S, or even the Daytona, would be the most accurate, but I wanted something different.  Found the Superamerica at a swap meet in town (not a model swap meet) for $10.  The wheelbase is almost the same, track width might be a challenge, but that's what flares are for.  Doing this for a Fakebook community build, maybe I will nickname it Mama Mia! 🇮🇪

Owners manual, will photo-reduce for a final detail.

A look at the parts.  No instructions.  Need to make the steering wheel rim, might try using wood like what Replicas & Miniatures of MD has done.  I have rally lights left over from my Cannonball WRC Subaru (not shown).

Custom box:

Community build started 1/01/22, proof that I didn't get a head start. 😅

One wheel is terrible, but since I didn't plan to use them, not a big deal.

[89AKurt]

Today I invested in new Dremel bits.  Really helps to have new sharp tools, looked for something that won't clog up.  I have tile counter that really needs to be repaired, but I would rather do this 😆

First to try is the 9903, it really hogs out the resin, large debris that's not dust, but have to be careful because it can catch and dig in and then curse words.  First is to open the wheel wells.  I will save the windows for last to reduce screwing up the greenhouse.

Since the headlights will have correct reflectors, opened one up so far.  The hood gaps are painted with flat black acrylic.

I used masking tape to transfer the hood lines to the underside.  Routed the groove, using the light to show the black line.

Used the Tamiya scriber to deepen the panel lines.

Then I snapped the hood out.  Holy cow is that thick!  Won't be hard to thin down with the new bits, but I might want to keep the vacuum close by.

Can hardly wait to stick the 575 chassis together!

Edited February 3, 2022 by 89AKurt

[absmiami]

One of Enzo’s prettiest cars - I’ve been using the diamond bits a lot in the past few years - good stuff - tempted to pick up one of Air Trax offerings …

[drodg]

Beautiful car.  I think I saw one last weekend at Sotheby's in Scottsdale.  Tad out of my budget....

[Rich Chernosky]

Kurt....I first saw a 330GTC at Watkins Glen in the late 60's. What a gorgeous car. Beautiful lines and all. Just sittng there it looked fast.  Have alwasy wanted a model of one. will be following this closely.  We modellers are also tool-a-holics...you will like the tungsten-carbide moto bits. Expensive but worth it. 

[ZTony8]

I've long thought that the 330/365 GTC was the prettiest Ferrari ever built.

[89AKurt]

15 hours ago, absmiami said:

One of Enzo’s prettiest cars - I’ve been using the diamond bits a lot in the past few years - good stuff - tempted to pick up one of Air Trax offerings …

Good to know, I used for the first time on porcelain, look forward to using them.

15 hours ago, drodg said:

Beautiful car.  I think I saw one last weekend at Sotheby's in Scottsdale.  Tad out of my budget....

I enjoyed seeing the auctions years ago.  Yea, half a million nowadays.

15 hours ago, Rich Chernosky said:

Kurt....I first saw a 330GTC at Watkins Glen in the late 60's. What a gorgeous car. Beautiful lines and all. Just sittng there it looked fast.  Have alwasy wanted a model of one. will be following this closely.  We modellers are also tool-a-holics...you will like the tungsten-carbide moto bits. Expensive but worth it. 

Got these at Harbor Freight, Made In China were cheaper than any of the Dremel bits.

14 hours ago, ZTony8 said:

I've long thought that the 330/365 GTC was the prettiest Ferrari ever built.

Well.... I have a Lusso kit, tough to chose.

Thinned the hood most of the way.

The body is mostly thinned too.  Glued the engine and transaxle with superglue, all to be painted aluminum.  Temporary assembly of chassis with Tacky Glue, some parts friction fit.  I should look up the dimensions of the wheelbase of both cars, looks the same!

Calipers show the inside of the body, is the same as the chassis minus the outer area.

Of course need to see how the wheels look.  Hope it will be a little lower.

[Russell C]

21 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

....Thinned the hood most of the way. The body is mostly thinned too.  ...

Those shavings flammable?

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, Russell C said:

Those shavings flammable?

I didn't try it. 💥

I know it doesn't look like much progress, most of the time was spent figuring out where to narrow the track.  First was to find the specifications:

Ferrari 330 GTC

V12 3967 cm3 / 242 CI

300 BHP 6600 RPM 287 lb. ft.

Wheelbase 240 cm / 94.49 inches

Front track 140.2 cm / 55.2”

Rear track 141.7 cm / 55.79”

curb weight 1433 kg / 3159 lbs

 

Ferrari 575 M Superamerica

V12 5748 cm3 / 350.8 CI

508 BHP 7250 RPM 434 lb. ft.

Wheelbase 250 cm / 98.43”

Width 194 cm / 76.38”

curb weight 1730 kg / 3814 lbs

 

Shorten 10 cm / 3.94”

Narrow 53 cm / 20.59”

Let the bench racing begin.

Since it's 1/2" = 1' - 0" scale, drew out the basic dimensions.  Then I tried to figure out where I can narrow the track, and think I have a plan that isn't too much hacking.  The 330 measured at the centerline of the arches is inaccurate, but works perfect with this chassis.  I can take 6 MM total, which not enough, but the flares won't be giant.  At the rear, 1 MM can be taken off each wheel, 2 MM each side for the suspension part.

The assembly order can be changed when I cut the half-shafts, so the rear tub can be glued on with those suspension mount parts.  The back end of the chassis is going to be mostly removed, the mufflers will move towards the center 3 MM.

Mocked up the exhaust manifolds, it will be tight when moving the suspension in 3 MM each side.  The frame rails will be cut out and moved inward.  I can't glue the wheel tubs on until the shocks are put in, some modification of the tabs will be done.  The front of the chassis will also be reduced substantially.

Started cleaning up the small resin parts.  Found some bubble holes on the louver parts.

I noticed there is a gas cap when looking at pictures, it wouldn't be hard to duplicate, but I use copies of the Tamiya Isuzu Vehicross cap on all my custom projects, I think it's perfect.

[89AKurt]

Chassis modification done tonight.  Did one side, eyeballing where to glue the A-arms back, and basically hoped for the best.

One side is done.

Back wheel and suspension part on the left are modified.

The rear wheel tub was cut with the hot-wire, now glued back together.

All done by eye.

The aero shields may need modification, won't know until it's temporarily glued back together, with the brakes and wheels added on.

[cobraman]

Cool project. I like how you take us along every step of the way.

[89AKurt]

15 hours ago, cobraman said:

Cool project. I like how you take us along every step of the way.

Thank you.  There are times that I need to see what someone has done, to learn something.   Maybe this will scare everyone from trying the same thing. 😅

Used the hot-wire for many cuts tonight.  First was whacking the rear apart.

Didn't need to cut the length at all at the rear, fit almost perfect.  The front got about a foot whacked, the aero tray will need a subtle air dam.

First time fit with the wheels mounted on the suspension.

I'm pleased that the wheels almost fit, the flares will be minimal.  The chassis is still not up in the body here, so it will sit lower.

Note about the Revell kit:  They made it so the brake calipers say fixed, while the wheels turn.  But the disks don't turn.  The disks are between the wheel halves, which is not even close to accurate.  I usually don't like the wheels to turn, because I flatten the contact patch to give the impression of weight.  Going to contemplate fixing that....... and drill the disk holes. 😏  And the instructions do not show how the tire treads go, they are different block pattern inside and outside.

[mrm]

Really cool idea this build. And you are doing fantastic with adapting the modern chassis to the body. If I may offer a suggestion- don’t use the revell wheels/tires. I would look for something more custom built looking with a more vintage-y vibe. 

[89AKurt]

On 2/8/2022 at 11:57 AM, mrm said:

Really cool idea this build. And you are doing fantastic with adapting the modern chassis to the body. If I may offer a suggestion- don’t use the revell wheels/tires. I would look for something more custom built looking with a more vintage-y vibe. 

Thanks!  This is the forth project where I've done this (Celexus Porndy Mongrel), haven't seen anyone else do such a kitbash.   One thing I don't like about these tires, they seem to be narrow.  Front should be 255/40 R18, rear 295/35 R18 (11.6142 inches) but they measure 11mm, should be 12.3mm.  I have a few sets of Fujimi tire/wheel sets, will evaluate.  Since I don't like the funky brake/wheel engineering, I might as well fix that too.

[89AKurt]

I have 2 wheel sets to choose from.  I prefer the first one.

[tooltime-fan]

I would go for the first set, too

[mrm]

So much better than the original Superamerica wheels. I vote first set too. I don’t know if it is just an optical illusion, but it looks like it has a little more tire, which suits the build better. Plus I’m a sucker for the three piece riveted look. 

[89AKurt]

8 hours ago, tooltime-fan said:

I would go for the first set, too

 

3 hours ago, mrm said:

So much better than the original Superamerica wheels. I vote first set too. I don’t know if it is just an optical illusion, but it looks like it has a little more tire, which suits the build better. Plus I’m a sucker for the three piece riveted look. 

Thanks for validation.  Cool thing is, I have the Aoshima set too which has different tires but looks like the same wheel mold.  I'm also liking the higher aspect ratio tires.

[89AKurt]

Committed to the wheels.  Something I do with this type of wheel (found on Tamiya, Fujimi, Aoshima) that has a lip in the back, is to grind/sand it off.

Next was to correct the brakes.  Removed most of the back "axle", left about 1MM, which also required the pin to be reduced. Then I drilled the holes, and added some.  The calipers should reach towards the center more, but not going to correct that.  Used a bicycle spoke for the axle because it fit the best in the nylon thingamabobs.  Chucked in the cordless drill, and used the Dremel disk to chamfer the exposed end, and a groove at the glue end.

Modified the front a-arms to be round so there is clearance for steering.  I think this looks much better.

Now I'm having an issue with the rear axle location, it somehow moved back a couple of millimeters.  The transaxle locater pins weren't changed, so it's a mystery.   I've broken apart the rear parts twice already, so one more time.......  Then the outside dimension of the mounted wheels will be evaluated, I can reduce that a little still.

[89AKurt]

Started off tonight figuring out what was going on with the wheelbase looking wrong on the left side, when the right side is spot on.  Using the square, it sure looked like Revell screwed up with locating the hub, they have square pins going different directions so we would keep the correct parts on the matching side, appears they put the holes on the wrong side of centerline.  If anyone has built this kit, let me know.

Fixed all that, not much to see.  Used the Dremel to reduce the "axle" on the wheels, which was about 1MM, so the wheels are just about within the body.  Started on the interior, cleaned out the armrest holes, sanded edges and got the parts to fit.  Ground down some areas in the footwell, and inside the tunnel.  There is going to be major surgery getting the Revell tub grafted with the interior.  Temporarily glued the interior together.

I'm hoping the interior will fit with the chassis pan, fingers crossed.  It will be sweet if I can have it this low.

[89AKurt]

Now what?!?!? 😡  I knew going in, this wasn't going to be a cake walk (where did that old saying come from?).   Notice how one side the back tire sticks way out, the other side tucks in perfect.  It's not the chassis modifications.  I could see with my eyes the sides had been warped, perhaps when the caster took it out, he didn't set it down and check the alignment, or got warped in packaging.

The only way I could think of showing in pictures, was to set up the drafting triangles on each side.  Right side, it's almost vertical, the bottom almost touches the triangle.

Left side, the belt line touches, and the bottom is noticeably under.

I've read about using hot water, I need to keep it away from the greenhouse, which is really delicate as it is.  Debating whether to grind down the underside between the top of the wheel arches to thin out before trying the hot water.  The resin is really thick.  Need to meditate or medicate on this.

Meanwhile, looked at the rally lights from the Cannonball Subaru.  Have two slightly different lens choices, the amount of engraving lines.  Since the bumpers will need to be painted Alclad chrome, these reflectors will get it too.  The only issue is, no chrome ring around the headlight lenses.  The other lenses that came with the resin kit have much to be desired, the round red are supposed to be reflectors, those will be Farmers Insurance stickers.

[simonr]

Hello, awesome and unusual topic selected. I think that after all that great work you have done with this models, it deserves a better and correct set of wheels. Th first pick should be the Campagnolos that are pictured on the kit's box. The sencod one, and classic on Ferraris of this period are the Borranis. As you can see, I'm including here pictures of the real ones and links where you can get the in 1/24. 

https://www.mkakter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=123711

www.geminimodelcars.com/listing/1140333867/borrani-turned-and-photoetched-wire

 

If you go to www.renaissance-models.com, you can get both styles of wheels and the correct wood kit for the steering wheel.

 

Good luck!

Edited February 15, 2022 by simonr

[cobraman]

Resin !  Seems most always one problem or another. Good luck with the hot water method. I hope it works better for you than it did for me with the side trim on my Ferrari Ghia.

[simonr]

An extra...Renaissance catalog:

 

http://www.renaissance-models.com/nouveautes_fichiers/24e_accessoires_Photos.pdf

[89AKurt]

4 hours ago, simonr said:

Hello, awesome and unusual topic selected. I think that after all that great work you have done with this models, it deserves a better and correct set of wheels. Th first pick should be the Campagnolos that are pictured on the kit's box. The sencod one, and classic on Ferraris of this period are the Borranis. As you can see, I'm including here pictures of the real ones and links where you can get the in 1/24. 

[...]

Appreciate the comment and help.  The Campagnolos for the 246 would not be correct.  I see the Renaissance wheels (Jeu de 4 roues Campagnolo 1/24 (Ferrari 275 GTB) avec pneus et papillons), the slots don't look right.  I have a few sets of other brand p-e wheels, which do not have the nice tires that come in the Fujimi kits.  I'm good with the steering wheel, just need to turn wood rims which I think is possible; I used the Replicas & Miniatures of MD steering wheel which had real wood parts.  I understand why you wish I would build a "correct" model, that's never been my intention to begin with, everyone else can build concours correct builds.

4 hours ago, cobraman said:

Resin !  Seems most always one problem or another. Good luck with the hot water method. I hope it works better for you than it did for me with the side trim on my Ferrari Ghia.

Thanks!  So do I, nothing like having a make or break moment.