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  • 3 weeks later...
14 hours ago, Perspective Customs said:

I've printed 4 bodies so far (2 different cars) and each one has a crease from the A pillars to the front fenders. The crease is parallel to the angle the body is supported, about 60° or so.

Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it? This is on a Mono X.

Thanks

 

What you're getting is "print shifting" where the the model shifts off its axis a bit before the next cycle when the UV light comes on to put on the next layer.

What may help is to support the model with enough density #1 (I have mine at 70'%), and also to put supports around the sides of the body to give it more stability. I just printed this 1960 Studebaker Lark yesterday with a Mighty 8K------note the supports around the body.............nary a print shift.

Also, it seems as though the more you have on the build plate, the "steadier" the objects will be. It seems as though there can be a bit of off balance if there's just one thing on the plate-----I try to load mine up to the max as that seems to keep things from shifting around too much.


394563649_3678512452475153_4363470437499463866_n.jpg.ac19cc638eaf4eef245de506a79f125a.jpg395257435_3678512719141793_2207523474279396899_n.jpg.2380550ebc79151230416795b32e5062.jpg

 

 

 

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20 hours ago, Perspective Customs said:

I've printed 4 bodies so far (2 different cars) and each one has a crease from the A pillars to the front fenders. The crease is parallel to the angle the body is supported, about 60° or so.

Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it? This is on a Mono X.

Thanks

IMG_20231023_183728717.thumb.jpg.a8ed433e81484b292fac332262e56c07.jpg

IMG_20231010_202059373.thumb.jpg.2e60b08db7ebd8cd42d3ca4f3aeb9248.jpg

Read through this https://3dprinterly.com/8-ways-how-to-fix-resin-3d-printer-layer-shifts/  Make note of lift speed and orientation. Watch the video on lift speed and note that anglre of orientation should be between 10 and 45 degrees. Anything greater than 45 is more harmful. I eliminated this problem by printing flat at zero angle. You can't do this as you build area isn't large enough.

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On 10/24/2023 at 5:16 PM, my66s55 said:

Read through this https://3dprinterly.com/8-ways-how-to-fix-resin-3d-printer-layer-shifts/  Make note of lift speed and orientation. Watch the video on lift speed and note that anglre of orientation should be between 10 and 45 degrees. Anything greater than 45 is more harmful. I eliminated this problem by printing flat at zero angle. You can't do this as you build area isn't large enough.

Thanks Doug. That's a wealth of information. I have quite a bit to learn.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay 3D experts, I have a long time problem I'm tired of working around. Need a fix!

Loading a full sized body into my slicer program doesn't seem to work.

I've been using Chitubox, and this issue persists in both the old version, and the new version. It also persists with either of my printers selected.

Here's an example, using screenshots.

 

First, here's my slicer, no files opened.

001.jpg

 

 

Now, here's my slicer with the body of a 2024 Mustang Dark Horse. Hmm...something's off. With this one, I'm getting just parts of the body.

002.jpg

 

 

Now here's that body with supports added. Chitubox is reading the whole body, and supporting it, but is not displaying it.

003.jpg

 

If I delete that body, I can open the individual body files. Then add supports and print these with no issues.

004.jpg

 

But I want/need to print one piece bodies.

 

Here's another example.

 

Here's the full body of a Crown Vic Interceptor. Look on the right side, the file is indeed open.

101.jpg

 

 

Now I've added the supports. They are crown Vic shaped.

102.jpg

 

 

And again, I can print the full body in pieces with no issues.

103.jpg

 

 

These are all in 1/24 scale, but the same thing happens when I try to open it in 1/43 scale. Or any other scale.

 

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

 

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8 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

Okay 3D experts, I have a long time problem I'm tired of working around. Need a fix!

Loading a full sized body into my slicer program doesn't seem to work.

I've been using Chitubox, and this issue persists in both the old version, and the new version. It also persists with either of my printers selected.

Here's an example, using screenshots.

 

First, here's my slicer, no files opened.

001.jpg

 

 

Now, here's my slicer with the body of a 2024 Mustang Dark Horse. Hmm...something's off. With this one, I'm getting just parts of the body.

002.jpg

 

 

Now here's that body with supports added. Chitubox is reading the whole body, and supporting it, but is not displaying it.

003.jpg

 

If I delete that body, I can open the individual body files. Then add supports and print these with no issues.

004.jpg

 

But I want/need to print one piece bodies.

 

Here's another example.

 

Here's the full body of a Crown Vic Interceptor. Look on the right side, the file is indeed open.

101.jpg

 

 

Now I've added the supports. They are crown Vic shaped.

102.jpg

 

 

And again, I can print the full body in pieces with no issues.

103.jpg

 

 

These are all in 1/24 scale, but the same thing happens when I try to open it in 1/43 scale. Or any other scale.

 

 

 

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

 

have you tried the files in another slicer?

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3 hours ago, stitchdup said:

have you tried the files in another slicer?

Not yet. I like the Chitubox interface, so was hoping for a solution within. But another slicer is on my list of things to investigate today.

1 hour ago, stinkybritches said:

Or in 3D Builder?

I've used 3D builder to split files that were too large for my old printer, but haven't explored it much further. Can it do slicing?

 

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4 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

Not yet. I like the Chitubox interface, so was hoping for a solution within. But another slicer is on my list of things to investigate today.

I've used 3D builder to split files that were too large for my old printer, but haven't explored it much further. Can it do slicing?

 

I'm sorry, I should have explained why I asked you about 3D Builder. I guess that's what happens when I post something when I should be working. 

I always load my files into 3D Builder before trying to print in order to make sure that everything is okay. If you load up a file and there is a red box around it then there is a problem that might affect printing. 3D Builder will then attempt to fix it. So I was just wondering if you had tried that to see if everything was fine with the file. Please forgive me if I am telling you something that you already know. 

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3 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

I'm sorry, I should have explained why I asked you about 3D Builder. I guess that's what happens when I post something when I should be working. 

I always load my files into 3D Builder before trying to print in order to make sure that everything is okay. If you load up a file and there is a red box around it then there is a problem that might affect printing. 3D Builder will then attempt to fix it. So I was just wondering if you had tried that to see if everything was fine with the file. Please forgive me if I am telling you something that you already know. 

Hmm...I haven't tried to do that before. I opened the file in 3DB, saw it open, then closed it up. I'll give that a try tonight.

👍

 

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On 11/19/2023 at 10:43 PM, Cool Hand said:

So glad I decided to keep up with the times and get a 3D printer, Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K

Now I can print my own wire wheels with low profile tyres.

The 3D file is personal design and was gifted to me from my mate SlowlysModels. 

 

I bought a couple of files from him! Good stuff.

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On 11/16/2023 at 12:19 PM, stinkybritches said:

I'm sorry, I should have explained why I asked you about 3D Builder. I guess that's what happens when I post something when I should be working. 

I always load my files into 3D Builder before trying to print in order to make sure that everything is okay. If you load up a file and there is a red box around it then there is a problem that might affect printing. 3D Builder will then attempt to fix it. So I was just wondering if you had tried that to see if everything was fine with the file. Please forgive me if I am telling you something that you already know. 

Everything looked good in 3D Builder. No red outlines or required repairs.

And the facebook group was mostly of no assistance. There's one guy who was super helpful in trying to walk me through some potential fixes, but the rest was just people adamant that the file is just a shell for a video game and is not designed for 3d printing. 

 

I'm thinking the issue might be my computer itself. Graphics card maybe can't keep up with the demands of the full file size? I know if I load the build plate in Chitubox with a ton of files, such as when printing an engine, it slows down significantly.

Going to try using CHitubox on another computer and see if that helps.

 

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1 hour ago, iamsuperdan said:

Everything looked good in 3D Builder. No red outlines or required repairs.

And the facebook group was mostly of no assistance. There's one guy who was super helpful in trying to walk me through some potential fixes, but the rest was just people adamant that the file is just a shell for a video game and is not designed for 3d printing. 

 

I'm thinking the issue might be my computer itself. Graphics card maybe can't keep up with the demands of the full file size? I know if I load the build plate in Chitubox with a ton of files, such as when printing an engine, it slows down significantly.

Going to try using CHitubox on another computer and see if that helps.

 

Ok..............I have to ask.......was the one file that you showed (Crown Vic)......was that from Andrey-Bezrodny? I ask because one thing I know for sure, once you download them, you CANNOT move them from their original file location. In other words, if you modify a part and then try to move the file for use in another folder, the file may not show up properly either in Blender in my case, or look strange in the slicer. I dunno why that is, but I do know that the problem I had was with a '70 Chrysler Hurst file of his that I did some changes on. Even copying the file, and relocating the copied file to another location----it did some weird things.

Also, how much RAM are you running? I can tell you that his file sizes are REALLY BIG (over 1GB in some cases, and if there's not enough RAM to handle the file, you'll end up with issues like you're having. I'm running 64GB's on my laptop, with a very good graphics card, but some of these files are so geometrically heavy (MANY vertices), that it takes a LOT of computer power to handle them. One reason I'm not a fan of using a smoothing modifier on bodies........I'd rather have the body smooth enough to be reasonable with its basic geometry, as I've had issues with way too much geometry on a body, which using the smoothing modifiers (in Blender for example) adds to.

Blender says that to run their program you need at least 8GB's minimum. I beg to differ with that because as much RAM power that my laptop is running, I've still had the program crash without warning, and it happens right after I try to export something which I like to do right after a part is modified. The last time it happened was a couple days ago when I used their Boolean modifier, which adds a significant amount of geometry to the file, and the program crashed.

Thank goodness I had saved it before it crashed! 🤯

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1 hour ago, iamsuperdan said:

Everything looked good in 3D Builder. No red outlines or required repairs.

And the facebook group was mostly of no assistance. There's one guy who was super helpful in trying to walk me through some potential fixes, but the rest was just people adamant that the file is just a shell for a video game and is not designed for 3d printing. 

 

I'm thinking the issue might be my computer itself. Graphics card maybe can't keep up with the demands of the full file size? I know if I load the build plate in Chitubox with a ton of files, such as when printing an engine, it slows down significantly.

Going to try using CHitubox on another computer and see if that helps.

 

I should add that regardless if it's a video game file, it can be formatted for print, as I've converted quite a few files and printed them that were once in a video game format.

I can tell you though that most video game files are loaded with "texturing" which must be deleted before any wall thickness is to be done, and also a lot of parts can be "floating" on the file. This means you have to doubly check and make sure the part is fully meshed before doing any printing, or it's a guaranteed print failure.

As an example------this file originally came from a video game......................

1970 AMX which started out as VERY crude '68 file----MANY changes were needed to make it printable.

392926103_3673716622954736_5353167855510157574_n.jpg.4477bba64acf5aa4e1411804e967af5f.jpg391680607_3673716306288101_5373113680880548314_n.jpg.3013e330ecdfe6734762ca05e742155e.jpg391638495_3673716262954772_3192949991774599907_n.jpg.bdc80cc5a35e43c80abe94101475d49c.jpg

So yeah.............video game files can be made printable, but they do require a bit more work to make 'em cooperate.

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2 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

Ok..............I have to ask.......was the one file that you showed (Crown Vic)......was that from Andrey-Bezrodny? I ask because one thing I know for sure, once you download them, you CANNOT move them from their original file location. In other words, if you modify a part and then try to move the file for use in another folder, the file may not show up properly either in Blender in my case, or look strange in the slicer. I dunno why that is, but I do know that the problem I had was with a '70 Chrysler Hurst file of his that I did some changes on. Even copying the file, and relocating the copied file to another location----it did some weird things.

Also, how much RAM are you running? I can tell you that his file sizes are REALLY BIG (over 1GB in some cases, and if there's not enough RAM to handle the file, you'll end up with issues like you're having. I'm running 64GB's on my laptop, with a very good graphics card, but some of these files are so geometrically heavy (MANY vertices), that it takes a LOT of computer power to handle them. One reason I'm not a fan of using a smoothing modifier on bodies........I'd rather have the body smooth enough to be reasonable with its basic geometry, as I've had issues with way too much geometry on a body, which using the smoothing modifiers (in Blender for example) adds to.

Blender says that to run their program you need at least 8GB's minimum. I beg to differ with that because as much RAM power that my laptop is running, I've still had the program crash without warning, and it happens right after I try to export something which I like to do right after a part is modified. The last time it happened was a couple days ago when I used their Boolean modifier, which adds a significant amount of geometry to the file, and the program crashed.

Thank goodness I had saved it before it crashed! 🤯

Yup! Is an Andrey file. I download the zip, then extract it into it's own folder. I typically don't move them at all.

I haven't tried Blender, so maybe I should just try a different program.

Computer should have enough RAM and whatnot, at least according to Chitubox's requirements on the site.

 

Will keep messing about with it.

 

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If you have an anycubic m3/m3 max with the auto feeder there is a easy fix when it doesn't work. The bottoms of the resin bottles have changed slightly so now the feeder gets jammed against the bottom and cant feed. If you compare the air feed pipe to the resin pipe under the feeder cap, you will notice the resin pipe is a couple mm longer. This is causing the feeder to block when the cap is tightened so what I've done to mine is trim the 2mm off the bottom. I only figured this out after getting a replacement part from anycubic and it still had the same problem. since i now had a spare i had nothing to lose by trimming the old one. the downside is it will leave a little more in the bottom of the bottle but the upside is no more manual refilling. I'm sure the same repair could be done by filling notches in the bottom of the feed tube. I first tried to make a washer for inside the bottle top but it wouldn't seal tightly enough to work

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My experience with Andrey files is quite different. I stopped using Windows in 2010 and never looked back. Windows requires a lot of memory. Linux doesn't. I can do everything I need with 16 gig of memory and never have a problem. With Andrey's files, I have to open each one in Chitu and create a stl file. Otherwise Blender will not open them. I just moved a file to another folder and Chitu opened it perfectly. I don't know if this process will correct your problem or not.

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On 11/23/2023 at 9:43 AM, my66s55 said:

My experience with Andrey files is quite different. I stopped using Windows in 2010 and never looked back. Windows requires a lot of memory. Linux doesn't. I can do everything I need with 16 gig of memory and never have a problem. With Andrey's files, I have to open each one in Chitu and create a stl file. Otherwise Blender will not open them. I just moved a file to another folder and Chitu opened it perfectly. I don't know if this process will correct your problem or not.

Andrey's file are weird in that Blender will open them on my end, but for whatever reason I have to "drag them in" to the zero point on the X/Y axis. I dunno know what program he uses to create his files, but each one I've gotten from him I have to do that. Also, because the files are not to the "zero point" when you import a file for the car (to build it digitally), the files don't pop into position like they should. They print very well, but they do strange things in Blender for some reason.

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On 11/23/2023 at 5:55 AM, MrObsessive said:

I should add that regardless if it's a video game file, it can be formatted for print, as I've converted quite a few files and printed them that were once in a video game format.

I can tell you though that most video game files are loaded with "texturing" which must be deleted before any wall thickness is to be done, and also a lot of parts can be "floating" on the file. This means you have to doubly check and make sure the part is fully meshed before doing any printing, or it's a guaranteed print failure.

As an example------this file originally came from a video game......................

1970 AMX which started out as VERY crude '68 file----MANY changes were needed to make it printable.

392926103_3673716622954736_5353167855510157574_n.jpg.4477bba64acf5aa4e1411804e967af5f.jpg391680607_3673716306288101_5373113680880548314_n.jpg.3013e330ecdfe6734762ca05e742155e.jpg391638495_3673716262954772_3192949991774599907_n.jpg.bdc80cc5a35e43c80abe94101475d49c.jpg

So yeah.............video game files can be made printable, but they do require a bit more work to make 'em cooperate.

Your work is awesome. Can you  explain the process in a bit more detail about adding thickness to the game models? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

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