Black paint jobs

[Ace-Garageguy]

52 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

...That's all that I need to hear to assure me that I'm doing something right.

Seeing your consistent results has established, in my mind, that you've got it down, know what you're talking about, and don't bloviate with nothing to show.

Having followed your work for years now, and tending to be a hypercritical SOB myself, I pretty much accept your advice as gospel. 

EDIT: And there are very few people in any field I can say that of.

 

Edited April 23, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Seeing your consistent results has established, in my mind, that you've got it down, know what you're talking about, and don't bloviate with nothing to show.

Having followed your work for years now, and tending to be a hypercritical SOB myself, I pretty much accept your advice as gospel. 

EDIT: And there are very few people in any field I can say that of.

 

I appreciate that Bill, but as is pretty much universal in this hobby, nobody is perfect.

I still have my problems.

 

But I've used many different materials and techniques over my 50+ years of building, so when I stumbled upon my current regimen, and have since been able to maintain a great deal of consistency with it, with a very low percentage of purple pond usage, I figure that there's no sense in reinventing the wheel.

Just as everybody else would say, "this is what works for me".

 

 

 

 

Steve

[jaymcminn]

My usual black is Tamiya TS-14, no clear, polished out with 2500 grit and followed up with Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. The prep work is vitally important as others have stated. Block sand, prime, block sand that, prime again. I can definitely see trying Duplicolor for a 1:8 scale model due to the sheer number of $8 cans of Tamiya paint that would be needed for a model that size. 

 

[Dave G.]

On 4/23/2022 at 12:30 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I can't say that I know too much about any of that.

All that I know is that MCW lacquer shot right out of the jar, cleared with Duplicolor clear and polished, gives me great results.

I can't remember the last time that I displayed one of my models at a show, or online for that matter, when I didn't get a dozen "how do you get such an authentic and shiny finish?"

That's all that I need to hear to assure me that I'm doing something right.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Yes MCW lacquer as a base under clear coat is fine if that's what it is that you want. And the color is sure to be accurate.

[TransAmMike]

As I am about to embark on painting 2 Chevelle SS models (to replicate my first new car purchase then what I did later on).   I searched  and found this thread.

Now, it certainly is not the first black paint job I have done, my thought on these is black primer.  I'm most likely going with Createx Opaque Black since I have used it a good bit but since I have  been using  Stynylrez gray primer with mixed results I'm wondering if there is another acrylic primer I may be happier with, i.e. Tamiya, Mr. Hobby.

I tried Createx Autoborne black sealer on a previous model and it was super smooth but unless I'm doing something wrong it easily scratches off. 

By the way, the Duplicolor idea sounds pretty nice but I'm done with rattle can painting and I only want to use acrylic.

What ya got my Friends???

[Dave G.]

The only black primer I use is Stynylrez so I guess I can't help on a second choice there. The key for me with that stuff is mix it with a badger power mixer. Works great under Tamiya X-1 which is also what paint I personally would use if I wanted to do a black finish in acrylic ( and have).. Can't speak for the Createx, I haven't shot Createx over primer yet just paper and cloth straight from the bottle @ 40 psi.

 

 

[TransAmMike]

16 hours ago, Dave G. said:

The only black primer I use is Stynylrez so I guess I can't help on a second choice there. The key for me with that stuff is mix it with a badger power mixer. Works great under Tamiya X-1 which is also what paint I personally would use if I wanted to do a black finish in acrylic ( and have).. Can't speak for the Createx, I haven't shot Createx over primer yet just paper and cloth straight from the bottle @ 40 psi.

 

 

I only have the gray and white Stynylrez, gotta get black.  I know they say the Stynylrez doesn't need thinning.  What do you do??  It just seems most of the time when I use the Stynylrez it dries a bit rough.

[Dave G.]

4 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

I only have the gray and white Stynylrez, gotta get black.  I know they say the Stynylrez doesn't need thinning.  What do you do??  It just seems most of the time when I use the Stynylrez it dries a bit rough.

I put it on wet with a Paasche H and #3 tip @ 25-35 psi. Generally one good wet coat and done. Try moving in closer and slow down your passes. If I happen to get some fuzzies it's easy enough to scuff off with 1500-2500 micro.

I've also thinned it with lacquer thinner, we can talk about that another time.

[TransAmMike]

22 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

I put it on wet with a Paasche H and #3 tip @ 25-35 psi. Generally one good wet coat and done. Try moving in closer and slow down your passes. If I happen to get some fuzzies it's easy enough to scuff off with 1500-2500 micro.

I've also thinned it with lacquer thinner, we can talk about that another time.

Got cha!!      Thanks.

[Brudda]

Hello, I only know automotive paints. I use Tamiya paint for interior’s and the other parts of the car. If you would like to know automotive PM me and I’ll let you know what I use. I can tell you the right preparation is most of it. Here is a black 1/8 scale black cobra, sprayed with automotive paints. I sprayed a 1/12 mfh cobra with the same paint. Won best Shelby at the Vegas IPMS nationals. 

[TransAmMike]

2 hours ago, Brudda said:

Hello, I only know automotive paints. I use Tamiya paint for interior’s and the other parts of the car. If you would like to know automotive PM me and I’ll let you know what I use. I can tell you the right preparation is most of it. Here is a black 1/8 scale black cobra, sprayed with automotive paints. I sprayed a 1/12 mfh cobra with the same paint. Won best Shelby at the Vegas IPMS nationals. 

Thanks for your reply Bruce. I have no doubt using Automotive paints will produce great results as the Cobra shows. It's just beautiful. 

But, I only use acrylics mostly for the easy cleanup not having to use solvents (at least to a minimum).

I do appreciate the offer. 

[BubbaBrown]

I was not happy with how my black paint turned out on a couple old Fords that only came in black and wanted to do a 1970 454 Chevelle in black. I ended up spraying flat black Tamiya rattle can and then 2K cleared it. Came out so nice I haven't finished it I am afraid of screwing it up, but sure looks good.

[Dpate]

On 9/4/2022 at 11:58 AM, TransAmMike said:

I only have the gray and white Stynylrez, gotta get black.  I know they say the Stynylrez doesn't need thinning.  What do you do??  It just seems most of the time when I use the Stynylrez it dries a bit rough.

What airbrush are you using? How far are you spraying? Stynylrez can be sanded which is does sand nicely.  I haven't used it in a long time, because it dries way to fast and tip dry city and annoying to clean up.  

[R. Thorne]

Well, I really like the ts14 Tamiya paint.  These were done over bare plastic (no primer).  I did one over mr. Surfacer 500 primer, but did not sand over the primer (big mistake clearly, but not all experiments are winners).  It went in the tank, then was painted over bare plastic.  Pardon the dust on some photos.No clear coat, no polishing on any.

[R. Thorne]

Oh, btw, I did 3 cars with one can.  One light coat, one heavier coat, one wet coat.  No runs on any cars (4).

[TransAmMike]

14 hours ago, Dpate said:

What airbrush are you using? How far are you spraying? Stynylrez can be sanded which is does sand nicely.  I haven't used it in a long time, because it dries way to fast and tip dry city and annoying to clean up.  

I have the Proton trigger airbrush that has #3 tip.    I use a few drops of liquitex slow dry but yeah, definately have to keep a q-tip with laquer thinner handy to clean around the tip.

2 hours ago, R. Thorne said:

Oh, btw, I did 3 cars with one can.  One light coat, one heavier coat, one wet coat.  No runs on any cars (4).

Well that definately is black.  So the one with the rough finish is over the Mr. Surfacer?  

[Sandboarder]

23 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Well that definately is black.  So the one with the rough finish is over the Mr. Surfacer?  

It’s over 500, that the equivalent of 500 grit sanding. If you use Mr Surfacer get the 1500, it’ll cost the same and is super smooth when dry.

[TransAmMike]

32 minutes ago, Sandboarder said:

It’s over 500, that the equivalent of 500 grit sanding. If you use Mr Surfacer get the 1500, it’ll cost the same and is super smooth when dry.

Thanks, smooth is what I want.

[Dave G.]

I use 1000 in the bottle, thin it and airbrush it and it's smooth. But I get the Mr "Primer" Surfacer 1000 in white, can't speak for Mr Surfacer 1000  in black. What might be of interest to you though Mike ( and more why I writing this), the stuff stinks enough to blow your head off. But doesn't stink for long as it dries quickly.

[R. Thorne]

Sandboarder is correct.  It was the gray 500, btw.I tried spraying over the 500 because it looked so smooth after priming with it.  Perhaps a different thicker paint would have eliminated the roughness, but the Tamiya, especially the black, is very thin and more transparent.  That is probably why the paint jobs come out so glossy.  As I said, all 4 paint jobs, in the end, were sprayed with Tamiya paint only, no primer, no gloss coat.

[Dpate]

3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks, smooth is what I want.

Yeah 1500 is what you want for nice and smooth(going over it with 3000 wet sponge doesn't hurt either).  But 500 is best for filling and etc not for putting a color coat on.  500 can be used for like heavy body work, and than you work your way up too 1500.  Surfacer 1500 black and ak titan hobby matt black primer are the two best black primers I've seen and used.  So good I'll even use it on parts are semi gloss black and just use something like tamiya's semi gloss clear right over the primer lol. 

Edited September 7, 2022 by Dpate

[Dpate]

7 hours ago, R. Thorne said:

Well, I really like the ts14 Tamiya paint.  These were done over bare plastic (no primer).  I did one over mr. Surfacer 500 primer, but did not sand over the primer (big mistake clearly, but not all experiments are winners).  It went in the tank, then was painted over bare plastic.  Pardon the dust on some photos.No clear coat, no polishing on any.

Were you just doing some testing or you're actually using one or all the bodies? That paint job turned out great.  

[R. Thorne]

Thanks, I was pleasantly surprised at how well they turned out.  All 4 black paint jobs had  virtually the same outcome (unlike my picture taking and not dusting off some of the models before taking pictures). The paint and 500 surfacer came right off in a bath of 91 per cent alcohol.  I fell into a 1964-1965 Dodge & Plymouth hemi Nhra Stock eliminator rabbit hole and am building a fleet of them.  The outcome of that one bad paint job (with the 500 surfacer) may have been influenced by too short a drying time, also.  Sorry to the original poster if I have hijacked this thread.  This is my first car.

[Sandboarder]

12 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I use 1000 in the bottle, thin it and airbrush it and it's smooth. But I get the Mr "Primer" Surfacer 1000 in white, can't speak for Mr Surfacer 1000  in black. What might be of interest to you though Mike ( and more why I writing this), the stuff stinks enough to blow your head off. But doesn't stink for long as it dries quickly.

The Black is smoother then the white. I assume the Black pigments are finer but it has never given myself a bad result. 
 

I use both 1500 black from rattle cans and through the airbrush with the same results.

[Horrorshow]

I use grey Rustoleum primer then a coat of Rustoleum metallic aluminum  then Rustoleum black. This paint goes on thicker, I seem to have better luck with it. The metallic aluminum seems to bring out the shine.