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What is the next option?


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I bought this very good shape '64 Ford at an auction, the wheels and tires have had a major disagreement over the years, but the rest was in very good shape. The dilemma I am having is stripping the 58-year-old paint. 1. Soaked in Purple Power for almost two weeks, 2. Soaked in 91% alcohol for 6 days, 3. Soaked in Easy-Off for four days, 4. Soaked in DOT3 brake fluid for a week, 5. Purchased QCS Stripwell, hood and interior has been soaking for three days, did not soak the body. Here is what I have.  Before I drag out my disc grinder, does anyone else have any suggestions?  I am wondering what type of paint was used.

20220714_201034.jpg

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It's a reasonable assumption that if the finish isn't lifting after all those efforts, it was a HOT material that has eaten into the plastic and crazed, possibly microscopically.

I'd look at the surface under whatever magnification you can arrange, an if there is any crazing, take these other folks' advice to scuff and primer it...cause it's not coming off if it's crazed.

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I believe you've gotten about as much paint off as you're going to get. It almost looks like the paint etched the plastic and some of the pigment is now in the surface of the body. I would start normal body prep and as long as it takes primer without wrinkling you should be in the clear. 

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We sometimes like to talk about the "new" styrene in kits as being "cheap", and the "old" stuff was always better.

Not always true.

In the late Eighties I built a mint-in-box '62 Fairlane kit, to match a car I still have.  I'd just had the 1:1 car repainted in a 1979 Ford color.  The kit body soaked up Duplicolor primer like a sponge.  It took many, many thin, carefully applied coats of primer before the plastic was smooth enough to take paint, with no loss of detail.  

From the looks of it, you might have a rare bird there...a kit body that someone shot with what looks like automotive primer back in the day.  I'd agree with the majority here...if it hasn't come off yet, it likely ain't gonna come off.  Give it a careful sanding and cleanup, and proceed from there.

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Well, I guess my optic magnifier does not lie. There is definite crazing visible in the plastic. So, I guess my next option is to grab a tub of water, some 600 grit, put some tunes on the tape player, and set down for some tedious hours of sanding around all that chrome and in and out of those beautiful curves and coves.  I believe a good coat of sandable primer will probably cure most of the problems, but the paint is a bit heave next to some of the projected area of the body and will require some careful sanding.

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2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Or you could do what I would do and take the easy way out.

A new one with free shipping can be had on eBay for about $26.00.

 

 

 

Steve

I agree with Steve. My hobby TIME is short so it is valuable. If you figure what your time is worth per hour vs. how many hours you will have invested just to get it paintable. You will need to determine cost vs. time vs. desired results.

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19 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Well, I guess my optic magnifier does not lie. There is definite crazing visible in the plastic. So, I guess my next option is to grab a tub of water, some 600 grit, put some tunes on the tape player, and set down for some tedious hours of sanding around all that chrome and in and out of those beautiful curves and coves.  I believe a good coat of sandable primer will probably cure most of the problems, but the paint is a bit heave next to some of the projected area of the body and will require some careful sanding.

If you do decide to sand it instead of replacement, I would suggest using 1000-1500. 600 will quickly take off details and ruin the body. Finer grit will take longer, but give you a better body to work with in the end. 

However, I just picked up this kit at Walmart and spent about $25. New, virgin plastic. I would have to have some sentimental attachment to this old body before spending this much effort and time to fix something I can easily just replace. While I am very much in favor or recycling and reusing, etc., I also know when to just move on. 

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Another consideration is that I believe that the "new" Round-2 '64 Galaxie kit is still a promo style kit with the hood molded in, so if you should decide to replace the body, be sure to save the old hood.

Should you decide to build it with an engine, you'll want to cut out the hood, and use the original annual hood, which will have the backside detail, while the promo hood will not.

 

Likewise, the Round-2 interior is also a promo style piece with the seats molded into the bucket, so you'll also probably want to use the interior pieces from the annual.

 

If it were mine, I would cut the hood from a new body and use that body, along with most of the parts from the original kit.

 

 

 

Steve

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Appreciate all the advice.  It is not so much a sentimental thing for this particular kit, but the fact it is an original kit with working headlights and taillights and I think deserves restoration.  I have the '64 Galaxie in the drag combo kit.  My thoughts right now are to use that particular body with the custom pieces from the original kit.  I want to build the original '64 as a S/S or FX drag car.

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