Sebring 12 Hours 1964 Proposed group build thread

[Rattlecan Dan]

Great detail. Coming along beautifully.

[absmiami]

Thank you -can …

3D printed tire valves - airbrushed w Molotow - really really good - absolutely scale acc - 

 

[absmiami]

Brake lines - using .013 copper colored wire fr Tuner Model Factory - 

and attached the kit steering arm assembly …

[absmiami]

Bundled the electric wires by slipping them thru tiny rubber washers and then wrapping them w thin strips of stretched Parafilm … attached the lower rad hose to the pump before installing engine to the frame - same for the oil cooler hoses - 

[Randy D]

Andrew,

  You are doing an awesome job whipping this Cobra into shape!!!   The motor looks spot on.  Plug wires and more?

Randy

[Randy D]

WOW Misha !!!!   Your MG looks awesome with the paint and decals.

 

Randy

[Misha]

Been busy past couple of weeks working on the MGB with the last items on the work order. It hasn’t been without its moments of panic in assembling the major parts together! I’ve also settled upon my Deuce Days ‘25 entry to be a woody based upon the Fink/Taylor version.  Now that the MG is nearing completion thoughts have turned to what takes its place on the bench, a new build or a WIP, of which there are many to choose from. So had a look at my 36 collection with an eye to the chopped rag top.  

 

Finished off the helmet with the exterior strap fasteners and Bell decal with an overall coat of Future. It was then onto a tricky masking job for the rubber strip along the body length. At this point in the build I was dreading that overspray could trash the project!  With careful application of tape and plastic kit bag I covered the body for the LP 5, semi-gloss black paint. 

Once the masking was removed it revealed a very satisfactory finish, which showed one issue, first panic moment! The P/E badge on the grill was gone, after the effort of painting and glossing it to resemble an enamel badge. Regaining perspective, I searched thru the wastecan for all the masking tape, bingo, it was barely attached to a torn strip. 

The last item to be completed before mounting the body to the chassis were the bungee style cords for the hood/bonnet, and trunk/boot. These were made with heavy Coban sewing thread used for coats. Needed to mount the trunk release upside down, as on the original, to be used as a hook. Yet with the pressure of the cord it had to be reinforced by pinning the tiny piece with a brass rod. Once the cords were done, the major sub-assemblies could be fitted, or so I thought. 

A great plus to this kit is how well the parts fit. The fine tolerances had an effect upon my paint process as too many layers would affect the final fit. This along with the interior modification to remove the rear cushion caused the body to ride too high on the chassis. With my efforts to fit, I pressed too much and the steering column broke sway from the dash! Panic moment #2!

This resulted in taking the three subassemblies apart plus dismantling the interior. In repairing the column & wheel I inadvertently positioned much lower, which was noticed only once it was back together. I also filed the mounting points back on the chassis and body to allow for a better fit. 

Now that the car was together it remained to fit the rest of the external parts. One unique item that required construction was the bug deflector on the hood, barely noticeable because of size and transparency. 

The local brewery cans are bare metal overall and, once emptied are a great source for scale brackets and other bits of metal. Combined with a decent P/E bending tool one is able to fashion all sorts of detail items. In this case it was a simple 45 degree bend along a small length of aluminum and a transparency from a bubble pack to make the delicate deflector. 

The hardtop, which only appeared in the Club Sport version, was requiring more masking and airbrushing to complete it. The first layer was LP 65 Rubber Black for the insulation around the windows and to provide a base for the aluminum coat to follow. Once sprayed rubber it was masked for the Vallejo Metal White Aluminum for the side frames. 

Panic moment #3 occurred while removing the masking from the roof as two small sections of red decal film lifted at the front and rear of the top! In my attempt to prevent runs of clear coat it appears that the culprit a lack of clear coat at these downward edges of the roof. At this point not sure whether to attribute it to damage suffered during the journey to Florida or to try to repair it with another layer of film. 

This morning the MGB sits all  mocked up, awaiting the final bits ‘n’ pieces to be installed. This has been a very satisfying and rewarding build of a kit that is well thought out and executed with the only drawback perhaps it being a curbside. Even with a chassis plate, the details and crispness allowed for paint detailing. 

Hope to finish up in the next couple of days, and then it’ll be off to the races!

On 2/10/2024 at 1:08 PM, Randy D said:

WOW Misha !!!!   Your MG looks awesome with the paint and decals.

 

Randy

Thanks for your comments Randy. I’m quite happy with this build as it nears completion. That is my weak point as I have a ton of WIPs in line, never mind the stash which serves as a parts depot.

Thanks Randy for following along and all the others, 

Cheers Misha  

Edited February 11, 2024 by Misha
Spellin’

[Phildaupho]

Misha - MGB looking fantastic. Too bad about the red decal. I recommend adding another layer.

[Misha]

1 minute ago, Phildaupho said: I recommend adding another layer.

That’s what I’m thinking, even if it sits on top of the clear it might not be too noticeable, certainly better than now. 
Thanks for checking,

Cheers Mishs

[absmiami]

Thats funny - i broke my steering wheel too ..

[Pierre Rivard]

14 hours ago, Misha said:

That’s what I’m thinking, even if it sits on top of the clear it might not be too noticeable, certainly better than now. 
Thanks for checking,

Cheers Mishs

The MGB looks fabulous Misha. The mix of colors and finishes applied to the interior makes it feel so real. For the stripe have you considered mixing some reds and doing a delicate touch up with a fine brush?

[MarkJ]

Beautifully done, Misha. You should be very proud of this one for sure. I'm with Pierre. Mix up some paint and touch it up with a small brush first. touch up with clear on a brush after that. Future or the stuff that took its place would be perfect for that.

[Misha]

6 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

For the stripe have you considered mixing some reds and doing a delicate touch up with a fine brush?

 

5 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I'm with Pierre. Mix up some paint and touch it up with a small brush first. touch up with clear on a brush after that. Future or the stuff that took its place would be perfect for that.

Thank you Pierre & Mark for your comments, much appreciated, and for the suggestion of using paint to repair the red stripe, which I’m leaning towards. The clear on the top is TS 13 a lacquer, so would an acrylic red be my best choice as any goof ups could be easily dealt with. I would follow with a few dabs of Future, thankfully my bottle of it is half full which ought to last. 

Thanks again for the tips,

Cheers Misha

[absmiami]

I aint catching Misha - but i got 4 1/2 weeks left  …

some bulkhead parts - the dr side air duct and the wiper motor - and some paint on the bulkhead - the finish on the bulkhead of 2287 remains a mystery - im certain that it was painted once or maybe twice after the “64 Sebring race - it may it fact have been unpainted at Sebring - i painted mine w some Zero Paints aluminum - my bottle had only a small amount left - it was starting to thicken - to be expected after about a yr in my workshop - i thinned it with some Tamiya lacquer thinner and managed to get a nice finish - but probably time for a new Zero Paint order …. 

[1959scudetto]

21 hours ago, Misha said:

Been busy past couple of weeks working on the MGB with the last items on the work order. It hasn’t been without its moments of panic in assembling the major parts together! I’ve also settled upon my Deuce Days ‘25 entry to be a woody based upon the Fink/Taylor version.  Now that the MG is nearing completion thoughts have turned to what takes its place on the bench, a new build or a WIP, of which there are many to choose from. So had a look at my 36 collection with an eye to the chopped rag top.  

 

Finished off the helmet with the exterior strap fasteners and Bell decal with an overall coat of Future. It was then onto a tricky masking job for the rubber strip along the body length. At this point in the build I was dreading that overspray could trash the project!  With careful application of tape and plastic kit bag I covered the body for the LP 5, semi-gloss black paint. 

Once the masking was removed it revealed a very satisfactory finish, which showed one issue, first panic moment! The P/E badge on the grill was gone, after the effort of painting and glossing it to resemble an enamel badge. Regaining perspective, I searched thru the wastecan for all the masking tape, bingo, it was barely attached to a torn strip. 

The last item to be completed before mounting the body to the chassis were the bungee style cords for the hood/bonnet, and trunk/boot. These were made with heavy Coban sewing thread used for coats. Needed to mount the trunk release upside down, as on the original, to be used as a hook. Yet with the pressure of the cord it had to be reinforced by pinning the tiny piece with a brass rod. Once the cords were done, the major sub-assemblies could be fitted, or so I thought. 

A great plus to this kit is how well the parts fit. The fine tolerances had an effect upon my paint process as too many layers would affect the final fit. This along with the interior modification to remove the rear cushion caused the body to ride too high on the chassis. With my efforts to fit, I pressed too much and the steering column broke sway from the dash! Panic moment #2!

This resulted in taking the three subassemblies apart plus dismantling the interior. In repairing the column & wheel I inadvertently positioned much lower, which was noticed only once it was back together. I also filed the mounting points back on the chassis and body to allow for a better fit. 

Now that the car was together it remained to fit the rest of the external parts. One unique item that required construction was the bug deflector on the hood, barely noticeable because of size and transparency. 

The local brewery cans are bare metal overall and, once emptied are a great source for scale brackets and other bits of metal. Combined with a decent P/E bending tool one is able to fashion all sorts of detail items. In this case it was a simple 45 degree bend along a small length of aluminum and a transparency from a bubble pack to make the delicate deflector. 

The hardtop, which only appeared in the Club Sport version, was requiring more masking and airbrushing to complete it. The first layer was LP 65 Rubber Black for the insulation around the windows and to provide a base for the aluminum coat to follow. Once sprayed rubber it was masked for the Vallejo Metal White Aluminum for the side frames. 

Panic moment #3 occurred while removing the masking from the roof as two small sections of red decal film lifted at the front and rear of the top! In my attempt to prevent runs of clear coat it appears that the culprit a lack of clear coat at these downward edges of the roof. At this point not sure whether to attribute it to damage suffered during the journey to Florida or to try to repair it with another layer of film. 

This morning the MGB sits all  mocked up, awaiting the final bits ‘n’ pieces to be installed. This has been a very satisfying and rewarding build of a kit that is well thought out and executed with the only drawback perhaps it being a curbside. Even with a chassis plate, the details and crispness allowed for paint detailing. 

Hope to finish up in the next couple of days, and then it’ll be off to the races!

Thanks for your comments Randy. I’m quite happy with this build as it nears completion. That is my weak point as I have a ton of WIPs in line, never mind the stash which serves as a parts depot.

Thanks Randy for following along and all the others, 

Cheers Misha  

Excellent model, Misha - I have been following this for a while. We modelers all know such things happen (especially after removing masking when paint comes off or a decal) - nevertheless it is very annoying. Just like  running out of gas in the last lap of a race.

If you have a piece of the red decal leftover, I would try to complete the missing parts of the stripe. If not, I would take Pierre's advice and cover it with red color and a fine brush.

[1959scudetto]

21 hours ago, Misha said:

Been busy past couple of weeks working on the MGB with the last items on the work order. It hasn’t been without its moments of panic in assembling the major parts together! I’ve also settled upon my Deuce Days ‘25 entry to be a woody based upon the Fink/Taylor version.  Now that the MG is nearing completion thoughts have turned to what takes its place on the bench, a new build or a WIP, of which there are many to choose from. So had a look at my 36 collection with an eye to the chopped rag top.  

 

Finished off the helmet with the exterior strap fasteners and Bell decal with an overall coat of Future. It was then onto a tricky masking job for the rubber strip along the body length. At this point in the build I was dreading that overspray could trash the project!  With careful application of tape and plastic kit bag I covered the body for the LP 5, semi-gloss black paint. 

Once the masking was removed it revealed a very satisfactory finish, which showed one issue, first panic moment! The P/E badge on the grill was gone, after the effort of painting and glossing it to resemble an enamel badge. Regaining perspective, I searched thru the wastecan for all the masking tape, bingo, it was barely attached to a torn strip. 

The last item to be completed before mounting the body to the chassis were the bungee style cords for the hood/bonnet, and trunk/boot. These were made with heavy Coban sewing thread used for coats. Needed to mount the trunk release upside down, as on the original, to be used as a hook. Yet with the pressure of the cord it had to be reinforced by pinning the tiny piece with a brass rod. Once the cords were done, the major sub-assemblies could be fitted, or so I thought. 

A great plus to this kit is how well the parts fit. The fine tolerances had an effect upon my paint process as too many layers would affect the final fit. This along with the interior modification to remove the rear cushion caused the body to ride too high on the chassis. With my efforts to fit, I pressed too much and the steering column broke sway from the dash! Panic moment #2!

This resulted in taking the three subassemblies apart plus dismantling the interior. In repairing the column & wheel I inadvertently positioned much lower, which was noticed only once it was back together. I also filed the mounting points back on the chassis and body to allow for a better fit. 

Now that the car was together it remained to fit the rest of the external parts. One unique item that required construction was the bug deflector on the hood, barely noticeable because of size and transparency. 

The local brewery cans are bare metal overall and, once emptied are a great source for scale brackets and other bits of metal. Combined with a decent P/E bending tool one is able to fashion all sorts of detail items. In this case it was a simple 45 degree bend along a small length of aluminum and a transparency from a bubble pack to make the delicate deflector. 

The hardtop, which only appeared in the Club Sport version, was requiring more masking and airbrushing to complete it. The first layer was LP 65 Rubber Black for the insulation around the windows and to provide a base for the aluminum coat to follow. Once sprayed rubber it was masked for the Vallejo Metal White Aluminum for the side frames. 

Panic moment #3 occurred while removing the masking from the roof as two small sections of red decal film lifted at the front and rear of the top! In my attempt to prevent runs of clear coat it appears that the culprit a lack of clear coat at these downward edges of the roof. At this point not sure whether to attribute it to damage suffered during the journey to Florida or to try to repair it with another layer of film. 

This morning the MGB sits all  mocked up, awaiting the final bits ‘n’ pieces to be installed. This has been a very satisfying and rewarding build of a kit that is well thought out and executed with the only drawback perhaps it being a curbside. Even with a chassis plate, the details and crispness allowed for paint detailing. 

Hope to finish up in the next couple of days, and then it’ll be off to the races!

Thanks for your comments Randy. I’m quite happy with this build as it nears completion. That is my weak point as I have a ton of WIPs in line, never mind the stash which serves as a parts depot.

Thanks Randy for following along and all the others, 

Cheers Misha  

 

[Rattlecan Dan]

Looks great Misha!

[absmiami]

A little untidy - installing bulkhead detail - the brake and clutch resevior bottles were initially attached to a shelf on the left side of the bulkhead -

some time after Sebring they migrated to the top of the bulkhead - same as succeeding Daytona Coupes …

[MarkJ]

Andrew, this detail work you are doing is really top shelf. Keep up the awesome work.

[Misha]

Amazing! I agree heartily with Mark; top shelf work on an amazing replica Andrew. 
Cheers Misha

[Gramps46]

Cunningham 1964 Sebring Porsche 904 GTS #37

Well the time has come, and I have got to get going on this Porsche I promised.

The question is which kit to use. 

 

 And the answer will be based upon the following criteria.

1. 1/24 or 1/25

2. Parts count suitable for trembling phalanges.

3. Bench time available before the deadline.

4. Availability of suitable wheels and tires.

The answer is the original Monogram 1/24 kit.  I am going to move the build to its own WIP thread so as not to detract from the outstanding work above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Phildaupho]

22 minutes ago, Gramps46 said:

Cunningham 1964 Sebring Porsche 904 GTS #37

Well the time has come, and I have got to get going on this Porsche I promised.

The question is which kit to use. 

And the answer will be based upon the following criteria.

1. 1/24 or 1/25

2. Parts count suitable for trembling phalanges.

3. Bench time available before the deadline.

4. Availability of suitable wheels and tires.

The answer is the original Monogram 1/24 kit.  I am going to move the build to its own WIP thread so as not to detract from the outstanding work above.

Hey Gary - You should check out Doug Whyte's Model Car Muse video on building this kit in 24 hours.

 

[Misha]

Wow, welcome to the grid participants Gary! In addition to a separate thread, I’d encourage you to post along here as there aren’t that many right now and a number have completed their builds. At this juncture I would choose the curbside kit that was originally part of their slot  car series. It offers a decent body outline, although check the visual sources for your particular  vehicle, an opportunity for interior detail and creative paint detailing of the chassis. The other kit was originally produced by Aurora in the line with a Chapparal, Aston Martin, Avanti, etc. Great kit for detail as front and rear compartments open. The engine if memory serves me is the four cylinder pan cake, which may not be suitable as some entires were the sixes. The rear has a complicated structure for raising the body component. The interior has decent detail for even current standards, yet it, along with all the other detail is best checked against visual sources. This can be a frustrating build, often with the result of leaving the rear opened up because of its fragility. 
 

I have lately been building curbsides, largely because of subject matter, yet I seem to enjoy putting greater effort now into paint and chassis detail, as engine compartments, while I enjoy detailing, can be a long process.

Your choice of the 904 is a great addition to the grid. I’m looking forward to your progress,

Cheers Misha

[Misha]

Well, That’s a great video Phil!

48 minutes ago, Phildaupho said:

Hey Gary - You should check out Doug Whyte's Model Car Muse video on building this kit in 24 hours.

 

Besides being in Doug’s workshop, he offered so many hints along the build one needs to take notes. It really is the best presentation I’ve watched on “how to build” along with Doug’s easy going style, loved the part of him blowing on the parts he just glued. 
 

Well, it can be done, bravo ?!

Cheers Misha

[Gramps46]

Thank you Misha and Phil for your inputs.  The one thing I am missing is the identity of the round yellow decals on the side of the front fenders. Any ideas?