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IH 3800 - plenty of seats to go around!


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12 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

To say that I am impressed would be an understatement! This is amazing work! I can’t wait to see it finished!

Lol thanks ..its very humbling. I'm my own worse critic , but have to move forward 

11 hours ago, Perspective Customs said:

Seriously!

Thanks ! Its a fun build trying to figure out how everything should fit together 

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My family  had a 55 Ford and then a 68 Ford bus we used as campers.  The 68 we took all the way to both coast from here 1 mile North in Michigan.  Spent a lot of time riding in that thing.  I am liking your bus.  I remember taking the seats out of the 68 all but the first one behind the drivers seat. 

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I've been working on details for the drivers area. I used a parts box seat, channel scraps for the base then some rod and punched discs for the adjuster handles. Lastly a spare seat belt buckle w stretched sprue mount. Now the driver had a comfy place to sit while listening to the yelling kids! 

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The dash is going together from spare parts, the transmission shifter is rectangular tube, w rod for a handle. The heater box vents came from the parts bin..their cabin fan screens from a military kit.20230223_173256.thumb.jpg.2e3eedb8b497d5e36541e4e4ec8cd1f2.jpg

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Once the model car garage etch hinges arrive,  I can start the bi folding door. Adding the rubber aisle floor will be last before painting the interior. I'm planning  tan walls, w hunter green seats. 

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My fingers are raw and wrinkled up but I've finally finished cutting and sanding all 22 seats for the bus.  I didn't want clouds of resin dust from the judicious sanding, so a pool of soapy water was used. I removed a few mm off the backs and sides w a razor saw first, then rounded them off. I was averaging 4 per day before my arms got tired.

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 I made the larger seats 36mm wide, and the jump seat is 24mm. They'll all get a coat of tamiya primer then British racing green. 

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The etch hinges  from model car garage arrived today, time to build the entry folding door.

Edited by gotnitro?
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On 2/28/2023 at 7:49 PM, gotnitro? said:

My fingers are raw and wrinkled up but I've finally finished cutting and sanding all 22 seats for the bus.  I didn't want clouds of resin dust from the judicious sanding, so a pool of soapy water was used. I removed a few mm off the backs and sides w a razor saw first, then rounded them off. I was averaging 4 per day before my arms got tired.

 

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"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

"Why did I think this was a good idea?"

 

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Last night I had the opportunity to start adding the side ribs. I cut strips of 10 thou sheet, then attached them along the sides. One row marks the floor, middle is roughly seat bottom height, and the top is about shoulder height of most kids ..unless their basketball stars !  I have 60 thou half round that will go over these strips.20230301_180325.thumb.jpg.9955385ede2b7e08dd10ea4849fe9696.jpg

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The rubber flooring used on the aisles and steps was made using corrugated siding from Evergreen. Its thicker than I wanted but only available option.

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Any feedback welcome, thanks for following along 

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Anyone like RIBS??? Hmm dry or wet, Memphis style..nope just plastic ones this time ! I used a ruler taped to the bench to pair them up keeping them nice and even then attached to the bus sides. I actually ran out before finishing..figures

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Zoomie view 

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These really make the sides look like a bus now! I have a pile of Archer rivets to add closer to paint...but thats gonna wait 

 

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Do you know how much dirt those ribs will collect over a couple of years?  We had to wash our buses at the end of the school year.  I used a power washer the first year and I sprayed for a long time while black dirt poured out from under those ribs.  Anyway, you are definitely getting the look of a school bus. Keep the updates coming.

Edited by TarheelRick
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Thanks everyone for the feedback it helps keep me moving forward! 

We all jokingly pick on each other about what colors the build will be..usually before the 2nd post lol. Well, the paints been flying in the bus garage!!! The seats..all 22 of them...got a coat of primer followed by tamiya racing green.  The bus walls were airbrushed buff, then the floor done in another shade of green. Once that dries, I'll mask the aisle walkway and spray it black.20230304_083325.jpg.cd89d045ad0817f3faadedb1ba6524df.jpg

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The bus garage is really working hard on this one, before the squirrels return from winter 

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Been a busy wknd w daughters classmate bday party and general wknd errands, but started preparing the body for paint. The last box to check was adding the Archer 3d rivets around the body panels. I was surprised to find out they'd gone out of business,  but found a few sets .20230312_131718.thumb.jpg.eacc4cea6cf52706ec281d2c25d1b600.jpg

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While those dried, I tried assembling the model car garage big rig hinges set. I botched one pair cutting the fingers down like I'd seen on a yt video..so chose to cut them w photoetch scissors. 

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Those hinges will alow the side and rear door to open! 

Thanks for watching 

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The paint is flying !!!!! I sealed the rivets under testors dullcoat, then broke out the paint. A couple even coats of Tamiya camel yellow later I had this..20230313_172847.thumb.jpg.168fbc3f47536a0dca2aac1510289d19.jpg

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The rivets still show thru the light coats, making me real happy! I can't wait to add the black paint to those ribs. 

I was planning to use thin plastic sheet for my roof, but several local builders suggested metal instead. Any opinions on this is welcome  !

 

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Just a suggestion for the roof.  Unless you plan on removing the roof to see the interior I would suggest that you use plastic strips laid side by side from one end to the other.  Why?  Because plastic sheet will tend to dip in the middle and unless you can pre-form it over a buck to soften it there will be too much stress in the plastic.  You might be able to use very light gage aluminum for the top but again bending it will be a chore.

Using the strip method you can lay one strip down over the ribs, glue it and lay the next one to it and glue it as well.  When it is all done, sand the edges until the joints disappear.  There will be no dipping in the middle and the roof will be strong.  You can do this while the inner ribs are temporarily in place and then lift the whole thing off for painting.  If you want a smooth interior, when the roof is finished mix up some two part casting resin and pour it in and let it cover the whole inner surfaces in a light coat.  When it hardens it will be smooth as silk.

Here's my M-725 USAF ambulance that has this method of roof construction over the cab doors.  In the first photo you can see the strips that are laid crossway and the filler that was used to smooth it out.  The strips were 030" x .125" if memory serves me right.  In the second photo the underneath has been coated with casting resin to smooth it out.  The piece in the middle is just a support but it really was not needed.  Hope this helps!

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@Chariots of Fire thanks for the suggestion about the plastic strips. Originally I wanted a removable roof, but since decided to close it up. I'll test some ideas after the paints dry.  Your M 725 is beautiful 😍 

@Mopar - D thanks for the opinion on a metal roof. I planned using thin narrow strips about say 3 inches wide to cover the roof in separate panels like the real ones.. So many choices 

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