3D 1953 Studebaker pickup + MPC 1984 GMC 4WD

[dano3]

WOW, looking good!!

[1930fordpickup]

 This is cool. My Buddy Rick has a 3/4 ton this body style and a Short bus with this front end on.  The bus has a wheel base very close to a Chevy regular cab with an 8 foot bed.  Plans are a 454 if he gets to it. 

As far as those big blocks on the axle's they look scary to me. A body lift help this a lot. 

 

[89AKurt]

5 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Coming along nicely.  

Last time I was in Az., I had to pass on a complete 3/4 (?) ton that I really would have liked to add to my stable of non-running vehicles.  

Thanks!   Shoulda coulda woulda.

[89AKurt]

5 hours ago, dano3 said:

WOW, looking good!!

Thanks!

1 hour ago, 1930fordpickup said:

 This is cool. My Buddy Rick has a 3/4 ton this body style and a Short bus with this front end on.  The bus has a wheel base very close to a Chevy regular cab with an 8 foot bed.  Plans are a 454 if he gets to it. 

As far as those big blocks on the axle's they look scary to me. A body lift help this a lot. 

Thanks!  The rear perches are going away, will do like my neighbor's Blazer.  The front is totally messed up, debating about doing arched springs, and then I would have to make something that looks like steering, which could lead to ......

Something I noticed was some warp in the body.  Considering the hot wire doesn't cut the 3D plastic, I was wondering if hot water would do anything.  Since I was doing dishes (yes I never had a dish washer) and had hot water, found out you can finesse as needed.  Made the wood block to keep the rest of the body straight.

Thought I would take more pictures of the process of changing the fenders.  First step was Dremel grinding off the lower sections.

Used the hot-wire to cut up the other door panel, the arm rest area was really thick, no way to cut with a knife, and awkward with a saw.  First pieces were the continuation of the bed sides.

Next was gluing on triangular pieces for the fender.

It's always tricky to get the other half to match, I don't have any tricks, just trial and error.  Glued the other bed inside panel in.  Cut with the hot-wire, the bed floor from Plastistruct ribbed siding that is close to the GM bed floor.  Aluminum tape to temporarily hold in place.

Yea, much better. 😁

[89AKurt]

I'm resigned to having to redo at least the front springs.  At the minimum, doing the front end will show up better, than the rear.  Until my OCD kicks in....

 

[NOBLNG]

Glad you found the link Kurt. Fender mods are looking great!👍

[stavanzer]

I like how this is coming!

Keep Up the Great Work!

[89AKurt]

7 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Glad you found the link Kurt. Fender mods are looking great!👍

Appreciate your help.

7 hours ago, stavanzer said:

I like how this is coming!

Keep Up the Great Work!

Thank you!

Where to start, pinning down dimensions in space is a bit tough.  First step was to make a cardboard template.  Used the kit's length for a start.  Glued on wood blocks for the frame elevation, lowered the frame 3 MM (believe it or not 😅)

Eyeballed the height to make sure the tires fit the rear arch, I'm planning to make the front arch larger.  Nasty flat springs were cut off, where they met the axle was kept.

Figured out which end of the spring is fixed, the other end will have shackles.  Used an ancient drafting tool called a french curve to draw the arc on a piece of Corian®.  Drew the ends, and axle lines on the block, with permanent marker pen.  The front of the form has beveled ends so I could keep track.

Used the ancient drafting board to cut the spring strips from 0.02" styrene, taped down the sheet over cardboard, used a new #11 blade.  The vintage compass was used to mark each cut, which is the width of the kit's spring.

Used the classic mechanical pencil to draw each length of spring, and numbered each layer.  I drew a diagonal line to determine the step down length.  Used aluminum tape to hold down the first spring.  Shoot, forgot to take pictures in the wood shop, I used the table saw, cross cut saw, and bench disk sander to make the form.  Used a sanding stick to chamfer the edges, then steel wool.

The first to glue on was held with a clothes pin, but that's not really needed with superglue.

Used the drawing to mark where the end of each layer started.  Next time I'm drawing lines on the form for that too.

Don't know what the keeper things are called, made from newspaper printing plate.  Used an offcut spring for a form, had a sequence of what tweezers and pliers to use bending.  The ends are Plastruct tubing, use a toothpick to sand the cut square.  The end of the spring is sanded at a sharp bevel, also sanded the tube flat where it's glued to the spring.

The final bend, I cut the excess right on the spring, then glued there.

Brass wire at the ends.  Grant Line bolts at the shackle to frame, half depth for each side, tried to not get glue on the shackle so it could move.  This looks 1000% better that the **** the kit provided.

Took a break, bought a car, got dinner.  Got the other side done.

This is why I made the frame blocks.  Held the back end in place with a clamp.  Glued the springs to the axle and held in place.

Used copper wire for the U-bolts.  I had taken the axle with springs out of the jig, made the plate the bolts go into.  Wire insulation to mimic nuts.

Everything is friction fit, so I can remove the axle assembly.  This was the first time I built a solid axle like this, it was sort of fun!  Have the shocks, sway bar, stabilizer, steering box with linkage to do still.  But my goal was to get the front bumper mounts on, and mock up the brush guard/winch.  Used the GMC bumper splash pan (part behind the bumper) for the mount.  Researched pictures for how the Studebaker looked, so I made that splash pan.  Such a cool hood ornament.

Yea, that looks tough! 😎

Gonna fix those blind headlights. 👀

[Zippi]

The work on the Stude is coming along nicely.  Looking good.

[NOBLNG]

I like the looks of those springs and the very methodical approach you used to fabricate them.👍

[68shortfleet]

Those springs look amazing. Well done.

I too was terribly disappointed with those silly lift blocks in the kit.

[89AKurt]

9 hours ago, 68shortfleet said:

Those springs look amazing. Well done.

I too was terribly disappointed with those silly lift blocks in the kit.

Thank you.  Horrible engineering if it was real, really bad for a kit that kids would be starting the hobby with, and being turned off.

Want to thank stavanzer (Alan) for volunteering a set of tires/wheels from his stash.  As you can see, the plastic is white for the inside rim.  What I did not expect, the tires are the proper size!  I posted earlier about needing to modify the rims, now I'll just use these tires, and the narrower for the spare.  Undecided about having 2 spares.

Used the Dremel to remove the center cap and lug nuts, and hollowed the back so there is realistic thickness of the wheel.  Used successively larger drill bits in the drill press to open up the center hole.  Reduced the width of the outside rim by 1 MM.  Also marked then drilled the lug nut holes, before sanding the center down.   Since the chrome is so bad, I should strip and then paint with the AK Interactive chrome. (I know Revell just released a spray paint, I don't do rattle cans)  Also removed the inside of the inner rim.

After doing this, I believe the wheel is incorrect.  The center would not be offset from the spokes, I almost ruined this wheel by cutting through a little, doesn't show up from the outside face, so not worried about it.  Next thing to think about, how to mount in the bed.

[stavanzer]

Looks Great, Kurt. Glad to help.

[Butter 1]

Nice work on the springs.  It is all coming together quite nicely.

[89AKurt]

On 3/20/2023 at 8:42 PM, stavanzer said:

Looks Great, Kurt. Glad to help.

😁

9 hours ago, Butter 1 said:

Nice work on the springs.  It is all coming together quite nicely.

Thank you.

Back bumper is done, other than tweaking to get level.  First thing to do was add screws, a 0.1" sheet styrene brace is glued to the body, which the bed floor will sit on.

I modified the spring form, have cut the strips, and revised the drawing.  But thought the spring perches should be done first.  I'm not duplicating the real thing, just making it look viable, and workable for assembling.  I have also been modifying the jig with the crosscut saw.

Next session, drilling holes.  Then the springs.

[espo]

Like the jigs and mini frame table you have built. The suspension components are all very realistic looking. 

[89AKurt]

10 hours ago, espo said:

Like the jigs and mini frame table you have built. The suspension components are all very realistic looking. 

Thank you, so that's what the wood block thingie is called.

Fabricated the back springs.  Since I'm rushing this, not happy with the shackle angle on the left side..... OCD is a terrible thing. 😣

Need to do the aluminum keeper thingies, add to the standoff blocks on the axle, U-bolts, then both ends will be done to the same stage.  Need to think about anti-sway bars, the kit has them but the front part is warped, and they are ####, have fabricated them on cars before.  Shocks are the next detail to obsess over, most trucks have bellows, was looking at a client's Jeep with the fancy separate reservoir units that also had coil springs.  The front will get more stuff too.

[dino246gt]

Awesome work!

[89AKurt]

10 hours ago, dino246gt said:

Awesome work!

Thanks!

Tweaked the side that bugged me.  Finished the little details, but not the anti-sway bar and shocks.  Decided to mount the shocks inside the frame, the brackets on the axle are finalized.  Driveshaft will be lengthened soon.

The "new" tires mocked up to see how it looks.  After all the measuring and jig work, I still have missed the correct wheelbase look, the rear is too far back.  The simplest fix would be to change the fender arc to sweep back.  😑

[dino246gt]

I would do as you suggested, change the rear fender opening to match your tires, it looks so good and that won't be noticed, it'll look like it's supposed to be like that!

I'm loving this thing!!

 

[89AKurt]

18 hours ago, dino246gt said:

I would do as you suggested, change the rear fender opening to match your tires, it looks so good and that won't be noticed, it'll look like it's supposed to be like that!

I'm loving this thing!!

Thanks for the support!

Model club meeting Saturday, want to have the chassis somewhat done.  I'm trying to use kit parts much as possible, shocks are super lame and simple, but thrown into what's looking like spaghetti will pass.  The front didn't look right, the body in the center?   Chucked into the cordless drill to sand them.  Used aluminum tube for making the rear driveshaft longer.  I think this kit must have a 2WD option, there is a set of shorter shocks, used one for a stabilizer.

Make a simplified steering box, with thick aluminum lever arm, and another aluminum arm on my simple steering knuckle.  Brass rod with smashed ends makes the steering system complete.

Added brass rod for the rolled edge on the bed, and started the spare tire mount.

[Bugatti Fan]

Nice looking truck model, and interesting thread.

A refreshing change from all the Chevys and Fords. Even stock it looks stylish.

[stavanzer]

The smaller shocks are for the 'standard height' 4x4 option, I believe. Built without the big, Raising Blocks at every spring perch, the kit should produce a "factory" 4x4 truck.

At least I hope so. My 'Deserter" kit is destined to be a County Fire Brush Truck.

[89AKurt]

20 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Nice looking truck model, and interesting thread.

A refreshing change from all the Chevys and Fords. Even stock it looks stylish.

Thank you.  I like to be different.

16 hours ago, stavanzer said:

The smaller shocks are for the 'standard height' 4x4 option, I believe. Built without the big, Raising Blocks at every spring perch, the kit should produce a "factory" 4x4 truck.

At least I hope so. My 'Deserter" kit is destined to be a County Fire Brush Truck.

Chrome tree has the smaller wheels, but no tires to match.

Added brakes.  I had this set of photo-etch disks, which were used on other project, they must have been one of the first such products for models.  First step was to put in a scavenged electronic part that serves as an arbor, to give the worn look.

The next thing was to grind the center hole bigger.  It was more work than expected, these are really thick for p-e.

Next was making the calipers.   Since nothing is an accurate replica, they are just simple shapes.   The disks turn with the wheels, calipers stay in place.  Front are glued to the axle, rear are glued to the retainer.

The real truck has what amounts to running boards, that are inside the door.  Hot-wire cut out, used the pieces for the sides.  Diamond plate for the floor.  Steering shaft wire cut to length, VW Bus steering wheel is very close to the Studebaker.

I couldn't handle the wrong wheelbase, disassembled the rear axle, and corrected it.

Exhaust had much to be desired.  There is a choice of headers or stock manifold, I went for the hot rod part.  The pipes are a joke, the same part number for obviously different parts, and no sense to the bends.  It would take some work to fix, and I didn't feel like fixing something else!

Started by cutting the mufflers off the pipes, and mounting at a cross member.  Used solder (copper wire is an alternative).  Routed to the sides.  I will put on steel tube tips.

Opened up the front wheel arches a little.  Added an angle mount to the brush guards.  Found GM taillights in the parts stash.

[NOBLNG]

Nice progress!👍 The wheelbase and stance looks good now.😎