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Fujimi/Testors 1/24 Dino 246GTS Spyder


Justin Porter

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I got extraordinarily lucky with responding to a Facebook Marketplace ad locally and came away with two kits off of my "must build" list for a song. Naturally, I couldn't wait to start working on them and because I'm going to sit on the 250GT California until the wheels of my choosing are readily available, the obvious choice was to begin work on the Dino. I'm still somewhat undecided on color for the project, but the goal is a tidy build with a little extra detail in the form of a Studio 27 photoetch fret and I'll be adding ignition wiring to the engine because it's so hugely visible. The engine block and heads were assembled, plug holes were drilled, and both were given a coat of AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Matte Aluminum. Once that's fully dry, I'll mask and paint the block semi-gloss black. I then decided it would be fun to tackle the frunk since it's a wholly self contained assembly. After a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 Black, I got to sit down with my brushes, an array of AK, Vallejo, and Mr Color paints, and a few reference pictures and tackle my favorite task - picking out small details with a variety of colors.  

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This is a fantastic start to one of the best detail kits available in 1/24. I never realised that the Testors tool was the same as the Fujimi Enthusiast. I have the Revell kit, which is also the same tool, in my stash. 
You’ve made a great start. I like the frunk detail 👍🏼

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Nice start.

Just FYI, the Dino did not have a frunk. Yes there is the compartment with the spare in the front, but the car actually had a normal decent size trunk, in the rear, behind the engine compartment. It opened on it's own too. Same goes for the all the 308 models, but with them the compartment accessible under the same hood as the engine. Lamborghini Countaches also had a trunk with its own lid behind the engine compartment. 

Looking at what you have done to the front compartment, seems really easy to add the brake lines to the booster, which will add great detail. 

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On 7/4/2023 at 8:58 PM, mrm said:

Nice start.

Just FYI, the Dino did not have a frunk. Yes there is the compartment with the spare in the front, but the car actually had a normal decent size trunk, in the rear, behind the engine compartment. It opened on it's own too. Same goes for the all the 308 models, but with them the compartment accessible under the same hood as the engine. Lamborghini Countaches also had a trunk with its own lid behind the engine compartment. 

Looking at what you have done to the front compartment, seems really easy to add the brake lines to the booster, which will add great detail. 

I am aware that there's a separate luggage compartment for the Dino, particularly as the Fujimi Enthusiast series kit actually has the luggage compartment as a separately hinged piece from the engine lid. "Frunk" was simply a more concise way of describing the forward compartment. I'd considered adding some lines and possibly even the linkage that connects the brake booster to the pedal box, but ultimately almost all of that gets covered by a shroud that's not easily removable once the chassis is in the body. 

 

 

23 hours ago, Rich Chernosky said:

Justin...the Testors kit is more than likely an Ex-Fujimi enthusiast series.  A great little kit with lots of tiny detail.  Enjoy the build, you are off to a great start already. Will follow it to the finish.

It's most definitely one of the Enthusiast series kits and Testors even has a call out for Fujimi on the side of the box. It's actually one of the better "cost effective" ways to lay your hands on some of the Enthusiast series kits, although certain ones like the bulk of the Porsches are still in current production with Fujimi and frequently retail for less than their more newly tooled curbsides!

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More engine progress has been made and I am incredibly pleased with how it is starting to turn out. The details were mostly painted with a mix of AK Interactive 3rd Gen, Vallejo Model Air, and Vallejo Metal Color paints. Wiring was added using one of Gofer's packages of red ignition wire as I had just restocked it at the shop. I also added a wash of AK Enamels Fuel Stains to the gearbox in order to give a bit more contrast and to pick out its textures a bit better. 

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Edited by Justin Porter
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  • 2 weeks later...

The latest on my Dino is having assembled and painted the front suspension assembly. I used AK Extreme Metal Pale Burnt Metal to get the goldish tint of the Ferrari cadmium plating on the control arms. I will freely admit that I'm deviating from several reference pictures here as most Dinos had black control arms and undersurfaces, reflecting their cheaper price points. However, I'm kind of going for an "over-restored" look to the build and I really love the way the cadmium plated parts look on restored Ferraris that I've seen. The Studio 27 detail fret has PE brake rotor faces so I will applying those once the fret arrives from Spot Model. The color I'm using as my Pino Verde is Mr Color C57 Metallic Blue-Green over a silver base coat. I'm quite pleased with it on the underside so I'm really looking forward to it with much more of a shine on the upper surfaces. 

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2 minutes ago, dino246gt said:

I love that color, but are you not doing the belly pan in flat black?

Your Dino does look excellent so far!

 

I decided against a flat black belly pan to keep with the "over-restored" theme of the build. The plan is to mask and spray the rear subframe in semi-gloss black as if this over zealous owner sent the whole thing off to be powder coated. Full defiance of reference materials. lol

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I was lucky enough to own a real 246GT for 9 years, hence my screen name, and now I have a 308GTB, and modifications are really frowned on by the Ferrarista, but these are only plastic models so modify away as I am doing to a plastic model 308 right now!

Ciao!

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Really enjoying this build. I did the GTS (in dark green as well!) a few years back. I will tell you that the body-to-chassis fit is something you only do once, it's really nerve-wracking. It does fit neatly into place without glue, though.

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Happily, my Studio 27 photoetch fret arrived from SpotModel. I will say this, shipping was MUCH faster from Spain to Elyria, Ohio than I expected. I am super impressed with them. So back to work getting the front end together on the Dino. Surprisingly, with the judicious use of freshly hot water from my Keurig, the kit decals also cooperated which means the tiny Bosch logos on the battery went on with no cracking and just a little Mr Mark Softer. So far, so good!

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Tackling the dashboard was really one of the steps I was most looking forward to. In particular, the Studio 27 fret with its separate bezels and toggle switches looked like it was really going to set the dash off. Naturally, given that this is a Spyder, the interior is going to have to look great. So first came the chisel, then a few tiny drilled holes, a few coats of Mr Color Flat Black, and then some careful work with tweezers and slow curing Bob Smith's CA and next thing I knew I had this ready and waiting to go into the Dino's interior. 

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25 minutes ago, Bainford said:

Good looking dash, Justin. Did the gauge decals come with the kit, or are they Studio 27 also?

The gauge decals came with the kit and I was SUPER lucky that they responded well to hot water. I've had bad experiences in the past with old Fujimi/Testors decal sheets hitting the water and the decals just flat dissolving. 

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