Hood question

[jdhog]

Sorry if this has been discussed.  How to you folks handle the ghosting you get when a hood has the recessed areas underneath for cutting out a hole?  Seems like it always shows through after paint.  I'm thinking of a thin layer of glazing putty.  Looking for professional advice.

Edited August 8, 2023 by jdhog
Typo

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, jdhog said:

Sorry if this has been discussed.  How to you folks handle the ghosting you get when a hood has the recessed areas underneath for cutting out a hole?  Seems like it always shows through after paint.  I'm thinking of a thin layer of glazing putty.  Looking for professional advice.

I always just fill the recesses with plastic and then prime very well and paint.

I think this is one of those areas where a lot of problems can be avoided by simply priming adequately.

The hoods on the MPC ‘68-‘69 Dodge Coronets were notorious for the hood cutouts, but you’ll have a pretty difficult time knowing that it ever existed on this ‘68.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Fat Brian]

That looks like there was a raised area over where the cut line is. Once you get it knocked down it should be fine. This is why it's a good idea to block sand the body, especially around body lines and things. There can be weird artifacts from the engraving process.

[jdhog]

Thanks dudes.  I'm going to give it a whirl.  

[Dave G.]

8 hours ago, jdhog said:

Thanks dudes.  I'm going to give it a whirl.  

As someone said block sand it. I'd feather sand that, then prime. Scuff the primer with a micro pad. After that a single coat of primer before the color coat goes on. That's more primer than I use if the body and parts were all set to begin with but needed in this case. IMO.

[bobthehobbyguy]

One thing to consider if you are using automotive lacquer is when you hit it with primer you might have the ghosting come back. If you brush on liquid glue and then side it will help.

[Mark]

Fill from below before priming.  Lacquer primer will highlight the areas where the thickness of the panel changes abruptly (where the cut line is).

[Dave G.]

1 minute ago, Mark said:

Fill from below before priming.  Lacquer primer will highlight the areas where the thickness of the panel changes abruptly (where the cut line is).

Right, I thought of this, thanks for bringing it up. I often forget people are using hot lacquer primers sometimes. I use Stynylrez, Mr Primer Surfacer or just Mr Surfacer, non of which is hot lacquer.

[Mark]

Besides, filling the underside looks way better in most instances.  It can be tough when there's a lot of detail on the underside, but still, worth doing = worth doing right...

--Mark

[NOBLNG]

I fill the crevasse with 1/2 round evergreen and Tamiya extra thin cement. I press it in place to eliminate any air entrapment and when dry, a bit of filler to camouflage it. Then block sand the outside and prime it. If anything shows…more sanding and primer.

[Ulf]

Unfortunately, it is not only the bonnets that are at risk today. Last summer I prepped and painted a Revell 56 Chevy body, primer, sanded, matte paint (had no other) and it looked good until I put on the clear coat. Then stripes appeared across the roof. The body is so thin because Revell detailed the headliner and maybe it had been taken out of the mold one or two seconds too early. It was not visible as long as the roof was dull or at least I did not see it but when it became shiny the waves were loose. Now I have bought another kit and filled the folds with super glue, filling and sanding remains before primer. Instructive in short.