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Billy the Kid Demon Pro Stock


dragcarz

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16 hours ago, dragcarz said:

I got some bench time and set about the roll cage. There’s no photos of the interior so a lot of this is my best guess from looking from the outside in. I used .080 round Plastruct Rod. I spent a lot of time bending and re-bending tubes to get as close as match as I could. I also fit it over and over to make sure it was tight against the roof and close to the dash without interference.

I worked to get the Hemi as far back as possible as in the photos the hood scoop overlaps the cowl. In 1972, the rules allowed the furthest forward spark plug even with the front spindle, to allow the non V8 cars an engine reference point. Mines not close but it should work.

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Roll bars look good.

I wanted to offer you an idea to use on your next set of roll bars. You can drill two holes through the interior tub. Then bend your main hoop and leave both sides extra long to put it through the holes. That way you can get it right up against the roof. Then bend and fit your halo bar and glue it to the main hoop then put it back up against the roof and glue that in place then continue with your forward bars and so on. 

Not sure on that year of car, but modern rules, that those door bars can't be over the driver's shoulder in height and then they meet the A pillar bar at the floor. Just thought I'd throw that in there. I've built too many of the real thing and hate bending these plastic ones. lol . I tried to bend one the other night and it broke. Not enough heat and got too fast with it I guess. Car looks great. 

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On 3/3/2024 at 7:18 PM, Moparman18064 said:

Looking nice there, Roger, moving right along. Which dash did you end up using?

I’m using as much of the Duster interior as I can, it’s the same as the Demon in style. 

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On 3/3/2024 at 7:31 PM, Nitro330 said:

Roll cage looks great Roger! 

Thanks Terry! I’m kinda rethinking it, thinking it needs to be wider, I’d like the front bars closer to the A pillar.

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20 hours ago, dwc43 said:

Roll bars look good.

I wanted to offer you an idea to use on your next set of roll bars. You can drill two holes through the interior tub. Then bend your main hoop and leave both sides extra long to put it through the holes. That way you can get it right up against the roof. Then bend and fit your halo bar and glue it to the main hoop then put it back up against the roof and glue that in place then continue with your forward bars and so on. 

Not sure on that year of car, but modern rules, that those door bars can't be over the driver's shoulder in height and then they meet the A pillar bar at the floor. Just thought I'd throw that in there. I've built too many of the real thing and hate bending these plastic ones. lol . I tried to bend one the other night and it broke. Not enough heat and got too fast with it I guess. Car looks great. 

Thanks DW, my main hoop is against the roof, it seems as I moved forward it drooped a little. I’m not completely satisfied and may redo some or all of it, I’m replicating the early 72 version of this car and the photos show these bars. Looks dangerous to me.

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2 hours ago, dragcarz said:

Thanks DW, my main hoop is against the roof, it seems as I moved forward it drooped a little. I’m not completely satisfied and may redo some or all of it, I’m replicating the early 72 version of this car and the photos show these bars. Looks dangerous to me.

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Yeah, you can see the bars way up high in those pics for sure. And I agree with you, it does not look safe that way.

Yeah, I was having trouble getting my bars and halo up against the roof and I thought why not build it loke we build the real solid frame cars. When using a factory solid frame car, we drill through the top and bottom of the frame and put the main hoop through both holes and weld it on both sides. Makes it really strong that way. And it works that way for the models except your putting holes in the interior floor and putting the main and halo on the roof, if you use a halo that is.

Oh, remember this too, when the car is on the chassis plate being built all the roll bars are straight and level, but when you put it on the ground on the wheels, it might look like the roll bar is leaning forward because of the rake of the car. 

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14 hours ago, David G. said:

Great work on the roll cage.

Nice stance in the profile shott.

David G.

Thanks David, hopefully I can get it to sit the same when it’s finished.

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10 hours ago, bytownshaker said:

Ron Butler built Pro Stock Mopar's (not sure of other makes) had those high mounted side bars. Not sure if other chassis builders did it as well.

 

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Wow Edgar, I don’t think I realized how many cars utilized those high bars. Seems dangerous to me. 

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So I just wasn’t satisfied with the fit of the roll cage and spent the day redoing it. I’m much mor satisfied with the fit now compared to my earlier post. It’s tighter against the roof, the front bars are closer to the A pillars and the dash is notched just a little for the forward bars. I also worked on the hood. I cut an opening and added a two piece scoop from the Monogram 69 Camaro street machine kit. I’m leaving the top of the scoop off to make painting easier as the top of the scoop is white with two purple stripes down it. I still have some trimming to do after the glue sets. 
 

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I came across this today going through some of my old stuff looking for reference material, I forgot I had this! Back in 1978 I was building a 68 Dodge Dart, it was tubbed had 14 inch slicks tucked under the body, a 6 point roll bar, leaf springs with ladder bars, a 440 RB motor with a Torque flight auto transmission, Hemi Orange paint. King Dodge held a Performance Clinic and my buddy Crash and I attended. It was hosted by Larry Shepherd and Tom Hoover if I remember correctly, lots of information was packed into that clinic, I purchased the Direct Connection catalog and 869 page Race manual there. While paging through it I came a note I wrote noting when I purchased my cam and pistons…. This really took me back today and I thought I would share a memory, thanks for humoring me!

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3 hours ago, dragcarz said:

Tom Hoover if I remember correctly

Tom Hoover's Hoover's Mover 1969 Barracuda is exhibited as an illustration on the page in the 2nd photo. That car was powered by a worked 360 with W2 heads, LD-340 intake, etc., etc.

It started life as a quite rare model : 1969 "M" Code (375hp 440 Super Commando) hardtop (the majority were the fast back). 

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6 hours ago, dragcarz said:

So I just wasn’t satisfied with the fit of the roll cage and spent the day redoing it. I’m much mor satisfied with the fit now compared to my earlier post. It’s tighter against the roof, the front bars are closer to the A pillars and the dash is notched just a little for the forward bars. I also worked on the hood. I cut an opening and added a two piece scoop from the Monogram 69 Camaro street machine kit. I’m leaving the top of the scoop off to make painting easier as the top of the scoop is white with two purple stripes down it. I still have some trimming to do after the glue sets. 
 

Cage is looking great. I wish I would have thought about leaving top of scoop off before paint( I am using same scoop), too late now, all molded in. Those DC catalogs take me back also. Keep up the good work.

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On 3/9/2024 at 8:31 PM, 1972coronet said:

Tom Hoover's Hoover's Mover 1969 Barracuda is exhibited as an illustration on the page in the 2nd photo. That car was powered by a worked 360 with W2 heads, LD-340 intake, etc., etc.

It started life as a quite rare model : 1969 "M" Code (375hp 440 Super Commando) hardtop (the majority were the fast back). 

I didn’t think the factory put 440s in Darts and Barracudas, I knew they did the 383. 

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On 3/9/2024 at 10:52 PM, Moparman18064 said:

Cage is looking great. I wish I would have thought about leaving top of scoop off before paint( I am using same scoop), too late now, all molded in. Those DC catalogs take me back also. Keep up the good work.

Thanks Rich, my bench time is limited, but my thought time is usually trying to find a way to make it go a little easier and faster. 

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3 hours ago, dragcarz said:

I didn’t think the factory put 440s in Darts and Barracudas, I knew they did the 383. 

Hurst-Campbell finished the job. Cars left Hamtramck as 383 models with assembly instructions (seen at the bottom of the build sheet) which stated "BUILD LESS ENG. TRANS. CARB." 

So, yes, not a "true" factory build (the fender tags indicated the 383 engine code, but also had 'A12' conversion code, plus 'Y39' special order) , but were factory engineered. 

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11 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

Hurst-Campbell finished the job. Cars left Hamtramck as 383 models with assembly instructions (seen at the bottom of the build sheet) which stated "BUILD LESS ENG. TRANS. CARB." 

So, yes, not a "true" factory build (the fender tags indicated the 383 engine code, but also had 'A12' conversion code, plus 'Y39' special order) , but were factory engineered. 

Ya gotta love that stuff, suck a cool time in automotive history!

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