Len Woodruff Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I am looking for a company that offers these services for chroming parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Not aware of any companies offering to use Alsa system on your parts. But Alsa does sell small kits of their product for individuals to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 2 hours ago, peteski said: Not aware of any companies offering to use Alsa system on your parts. But Alsa does sell small kits of their product for individuals to use. Thanks. I checked there kits and they start at abut $400. To expensive for the project i have in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 You're looking at the wrong items. The Hobby Kit is $199.00. The 6oz. bottle of Easy Chrome is $169.00. This is a better deal because you get 4oz. more EC than the 2oz. in the Hobby Kit. You can spray the EC over either a clear or gloss black urethane basecoat and achieve excellent results. That 6oz. bottle will go a long way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) Pardon my ignorance, but living in the UK I was not aware of Alsa Chrome. It sounds as though it is used in a similar way to Alclad, Green Stuff World and A K chromes by air brushing. Looks very expensive for an 8oz bottle. So how much better is it than regular modelling chromes? What thinner if any is required? Does it achieve that holy grail of a bright reflective finish that goes off rock hard to resist handling? So what is the big attraction to Alsa Chrome in this competitive market and now that Revell markets a chrome aerosol finish that is getting good reviews?I Lastly, does any reader know if it is marketed over here in the UK? Edited March 27 by Bugatti Fan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 I need it for a 1:1 project. Alll of thee other chromes woon't sand up to the outdoor weather & UV rays. Here is a link to their website. Alsa Chrome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 6 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: Looks very expensive for an 8oz bottle. So how much better is it than regular modelling chromes? If the whole system is used together, the stuff can be used for real-car parts, as it's hard clear-coated and doesn't dull, smear, or rub off like everything else. Based on SfanGoch's recommendation, I'm using it for new chrome on custom interior parts and re-chroming OEM interior parts on a high-end '66 Chevelle build, and once I have sufficient experience with it, I'll post my own observations. Edited March 27 by Ace-Garageguy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 8 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: Pardon my ignorance, but living in the UK I was not aware of Alsa Chrome. It sounds as though it is used in a similar way to Alclad, Green Stuff World and A K chromes by air brushing. Looks very expensive for an 8oz bottle. So how much better is it than regular modelling chromes? What thinner if any is required? Does it achieve that holy grail of a bright reflective finish that goes off rock hard to resist handling? So what is the big attraction to Alsa Chrome in this competitive market and now that Revell markets a chrome aerosol finish that is getting good reviews?I Lastly, does any reader know if it is marketed over here in the UK? Alsa Chrome was around long before all those pretenders to the throne. And, it addresses all of the shortcomings of the various hobby chrome paints. It's a bit pricier, but the best things always are. I haven't tried it yet, but will be pulling the trigger on it soon. Looking forward to trying it out, but I still need a little more info on its use. If anyone has personal experience, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Been using ALSA for a long time now. Their latest iteration is Easy Chrome. I have found that for it to work right, you must use there clear base coat. It seems that some chemical reaction occurs between the base coat and the chrome. When done right. it is extremely durable. You don't need the top coat unless you are going to try to bury decals. Per ounce cost is not really that expensive. 6 oz. will give you a lot of coverage! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Pete, you can use any clear urethane as a base coat. I got this straight from the owner of ALSA during a phone call with him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 36 minutes ago, SfanGoch said: Pete, you can use any clear urethane as a base coat. I got this straight from the owner of ALSA during a phone call with him. What Urethane would you recommend Joe? I'm completely unfamiliar with the use of urethane as a spray can or airbrush material, but I think that it may be about time to pull the trigger on the ALSA system. I have no time for all of the "chrome paints" that everyone is using these days, but if this stuff is as durable as advertised, I'm in. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Thanks for the contributions guys. I will be watching this thread for any future comments by users of it. The only durable chrome finish I have found so far aimed at modellers is C1's Polishing Powder. As its name suggests, it is not a spray at all, but a powder that is buffed onto gloss black to get the desired finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Steve, Alcad Aqua Gloss works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 1 hour ago, SfanGoch said: Steve, Alcad Aqua Gloss works. Is the Alclad clear a Urethane? I had no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensar Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 I believe a urethane clear coat such as 2K is a base monomer that must be mixed with a catalyst before spraying. It yields a very thick clearcoat that takes some weeks (yes, weeks!) to fully cure to a hard finish. I have used it a couple of times on models. My personal opinion is that it's more trouble than it's worth. Definitely use a respirator when spraying this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) It's a water-based acrylic. Edited March 27 by SfanGoch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 1 hour ago, kensar said: I believe a urethane clear coat such as 2K is a base monomer that must be mixed with a catalyst before spraying. It yields a very thick clearcoat that takes some weeks (yes, weeks!) to fully cure to a hard finish. Yeah, this is part of the reason why I've stayed off of the 2K bandwagon. Nothing I hate more than waiting for weeks and months for paint to dry. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 2 hours ago, SfanGoch said: Steve, Alcad Aqua Gloss works. Hmmm, I wouldn't have guessed that. I wonder if a solvent based acrylic, (acrylic lacquer) would work. I don't have a lot of experience with water based paint. Well, I suppose if I drop the hammer on the ALSA chrome at some point, I'll just have to do a little experimenting. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 6 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Yeah, this is part of the reason why I've stayed off of the 2K bandwagon. Nothing I hate more than waiting for weeks and months for paint to dry. Steve Anybody who's having drying issues with a 2K urethane product is doing something wrong. The REASON we use it for REAL-CAR REPAIR WORK is that it through-cures QUICKLY by catalytic action instead of evaporation. We can paint a repair panel at noon and deliver the car the same evening. The chemistry is the same for all true 2K urethanes. Edited March 27 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 2 hours ago, kensar said: I believe a urethane clear coat such as 2K is a base monomer that must be mixed with a catalyst before spraying. It yields a very thick clearcoat that takes some weeks (yes, weeks!) to fully cure to a hard finish. No. We use it for real car repair work specifically because it through-cures quickly via catalytic reaction, so we can deliver a car the same day it's painted. Paint in the morning, wetsand and buff the next morning AT THE LATEST if necessary...which it rarely is because our painter is very good. If we had to wait "weeks" we'd be out of business. EDIT: Granted, "full cure" where the product has achieved maximum hardness and solvent resistance can take days or weeks, but it was specifically developed to allow a vehicle to be returned to service ASAP...and it works beautifully for that if used correctly. Edited March 27 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 1 minute ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Anybody who's having drying issues with a 2K urethane product is using it wrong. The REASON we use it for REAL-CAR REPAIR WORK is that it through-cures QUICKLY by catalytic action instead of evaporation. We can paint a repair panel at noon and deliver the car the same evening. Understood. But because it's not curing through evaporation but by chemical action, does that mean that it's completely and thoroughly dried or cured? It puts me in mind of some of the quick set joint compounds that we used in the drywall business. The misunderstanding by many was that because it became hard in 30, 60 or 90 minutes, that it was somehow dry. Of course, it was not, and required just as long as regular joint compound to dry completely. In the end, there are a number of other factors that steer me away from 2K, so for the foreseeable future, I'll be sticking with lacquer for my clear coating purposes. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) It cures by chemical reaction similar to 2-part epoxy resin adhesives or even urethane resins used to make resin models, or even the 2-part polyester putties (like Bondo). If you leave some 2K paint in the airbrush, it will harden sold. Not dry, but harden. Edited March 27 by peteski 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 12 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: But because it's not curing through evaporation but by chemical action, does that mean that it's completely and thoroughly dried or cured? Many factors determine when a specific clear is "fully cured" but the vast majority of professional-grade products can be color-sanded and polished entirely safely after 24 hours. "Fast" hardeners and reducers can accelerate this to a few hours or less, as will temperature. Urethane clears may indeed not reach "full cure" where they have developed maximum hardness and solvent resistance for 30 days, and some may exhibit "dieback" minor gloss loss, or shrinking in that time...but that will all go away with another quick polish job. Best thing to do is READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW THE TDS FOR EACH SPECIFIC PRODUCT and don't make assumptions based on internet recommendations from people who heard from their hairdresser's dog's groomer's boyfriend's father's uncle that something is some such. Edited March 27 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 1 minute ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Best thing to do is READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW THE TDS FOR EACH SPECIFIC PRODUCT. Or, just stick with what you know. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 (edited) 15 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Or, just stick with what you know. Agreed. No point reinventing the wheel when the old one still rolls just fine. I would personally probably not use a 2K clear on a model, because the film build is designed to be thick enough to withstand fairly aggressive mechanical sanding and polishing after two to three coats. In the hands of many modelers, it yields a dipped-in-syrup look I detest. That's NOT to say you can't make it work beautifully for models, but it takes experimentation with reducers and spray technique...and if you leave catalyzed product in your spraygun or airbrush, you'll be buying a new one. Edited March 27 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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