looking for advice

[Blaze00]

I have a 67 Olds and will built it as a Gasser. I'm not having good results with Tamia transparent orange for the glass. any ideas on application. Should I heat the plastic up and spray for a quick cure? I have sprayed several junk yard pieces with bad results 

 

[stitchdup]

your probably better to get some already orange clear sheet and cutting your own from that. its going to be a chore trying to get the paint to lay evenly on the glass as it has nothing to bite onto so will jusr run.

[espo]

Trying to tint the "glass" on any kit might best be approached with very light coats of any transparent colored paint. I have had fairly good results with very light dust coats of paint applied to the inside of the glass part. After masking the outside surface to prevent any overspray, I'll give a very light dusting on the inside mainly along the upper edge for an OEM type of tinting and a more even coat for something like a gasser. Waiting for a second or even a third coat after the first coat has setup. With the outside surface masked you will be able to see how dark the tint is getting after each coat by looking at the inside surface.  Depending on the desired finish the glass can be dipped in Future Floor Wax to seal the color and add a high gloss to the finished glass.  

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'd go with stitchdup's advice if you want to get it done with the least aggravation.

None of the windows in that car are compound-curves, so heat-forming isn't necessary.

Single-curved "glass" made from colored clear sheet can be gently curved with your fingers well enough to hold its shape.

EDIT: It's fairly straightforward to devise a simple hidden retainer system that will allow the windows to "snap" in place, eliminating all or most of the necessity for using an adhesive...and I'd recommend a PVA "white" glue that dries clear and doesn't fog.

Edited April 19, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[Blaze00]

1 hour ago, espo said:

Trying to tint the "glass" on any kit might best be approached with very light coats of any transparent colored paint. I have had fairly good results with very light dust coats of paint applied to the inside of the glass part. After masking the outside surface to prevent any overspray, I'll give a very light dusting on the inside mainly along the upper edge for an OEM type of tinting and a more even coat for something like a gasser. Waiting for a second or even a third coat after the first coat has setup. With the outside surface masked you will be able to see how dark the tint is getting after each coat by looking at the inside surface.  Depending on the desired finish the glass can be dipped in Future Floor Wax to seal the color and add a high gloss to the finished glass.  

I dusted one piece ( on the right) and blasted another on the inside to figure out where to start. the problem is chemical reaction that fogged both pieces. I'm not worried about running the paint, I used to paint cars, I can use a spray bomb as good as a gun. I just want one even coat to achieve desired results. just looking for a clear Orange tint glass

[Blaze00]

My thought was to heat up the plastic to cure/ dry fast and not eat up the glass. I have a heat gun to bring the surface temp up

[JollySipper]

You guys think that some food coloring in a bit of Future would do the trick? Then the glass pieces could just be dipped in..........

[peteski]

Actually you will have to add quite a bit of food coloring to make the tinting visible.  Worth a try since Future can be removed easily, but I suspect that as excess Future runs off or pools on the surface, the tinting will be streaky and uneven.

[Phirewriter]

Food coloring is not intense enough to use without multiple coats nor is it light fast. You'll have clear windows again after a little while depending on how and where your car is displayed.

[espo]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

Actually you will have to add quite a bit of food coloring to make the tinting visible.  Worth a try since Future can be removed easily, but I suspect that as excess Future runs off or pools on the surface, the tinting will be streaky and uneven.

You are right about Future being runny. What I have done when treating the windows in a kit is to attach the window in some way to a clip that is then put into a mount that will hold the windows upright. As you pointed out, it does run and rather than have it drip all over everything or run down the mounting, I'll use a paper towel to just touch the bottom edge of the window. The Future product running off will go onto the towel and be wicked away. 

[peteski]

7 minutes ago, espo said:

You are right about Future being runny. What I have done when treating the windows in a kit is to attach the window in some way to a clip that is then put into a mount that will hold the windows upright. As you pointed out, it does run and rather than have it drip all over everything or run down the mounting, I'll use a paper towel to just touch the bottom edge of the window. The Future product running off will go onto the towel and be wicked away. 

Exactly, as the tinted Futrue runs off, so will the tint intensity. You might have to dip multiple times, and even then the tinting will be very weak.  But as I mentioned earlier, you can try that technique, and if it doesn't work, just remove the Future and go to "plan B".

[Deathgoblin]

Stupid thought, but what about RIT dye?  I've heard of people using that to tint plastic lenses on glasses.

[Blaze00]

20 minutes ago, Deathgoblin said:

Stupid thought, but what about RIT dye?  I've heard of people using that to tint plastic lenses on glasses.

I have a lot of junkyard parts and will try RIT, and try the Tamiya transparent as plan B. I only have one windshield and backglass to really mess up. Thanks man. I have 6 models going on now and want to simplify  the process

[bobss396]

I would heat the paint, the plastic will cool off in a matter of seconds. I give my paint 5 to 10 minutes in hot tap water, no more than 105 F. I have heated paint in the dehydrator as well. Make sure that the glass has been washed with hot soapy water to get any mold release off it.

[Blaze00]

5 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I would heat the paint, the plastic will cool off in a matter of seconds. I give my paint 5 to 10 minutes in hot tap water, no more than 105 F. I have heated paint in the dehydrator as well. Make sure that the glass has been washed with hot soapy water to get any mold release off it.

Funny to heat the paint (good idea). When I started selling auto paint one of my shops was still using synthetic enamel and used a hot plate so the paint would flow better. After shooting the vehicle the hack painter would spray the surface with water to shock it. The car looked great, no orange peel but only lasted 6 months and chalked with the paint failing. I'll try heating the spray bomb on my junkyards parts. Thanks for bringing back 35+ years ago of bench chemist's memory's. I'll also the some parts in RIT.

[Oldriginal86]

Have you tried sanding the glass with 600-800 then brush or spray the transparent paint on? I had a scratched windshield that I sanded out most of the scratch and brushed on Future, came out clear. I would think transparent orange would come out the same. I have a Nova gasser I’m building right now that I’m going to try my technique only in blue.

[Blaze00]

4 hours ago, Oldriginal86 said:

Have you tried sanding the glass with 600-800 then brush or spray the transparent paint on? I had a scratched windshield that I sanded out most of the scratch and brushed on Future, came out clear. I would think transparent orange would come out the same. I have a Nova gasser I’m building right now that I’m going to try my technique only in blue.

I have 600 to 2000 grit. Just afraid that after a wash to get rid of mold release the paint will bite too much screw up the glass. My paint smells like Lacquer not Enamel. Lacquer is very aggressive. I do not know what Future is. Things have changed in the last 40 years

[Oldriginal86]

I agree that the lacquer on clear parts may be a bit aggressive and may be “crazing” it. May be the cause of the fog your seeing. I have the acrylic Tamiya clear blue I’m going to try. Future is acrylic also.

[Phirewriter]

One more thing you may want to look at is sheets of plastic for RC aircraft canopies. If you don't have a LHS any online dealer should carry sheets and is available in numerous colors as well.