Minor inconvenience or major issue?

[johnyrotten]

So I was drilling out the door handles, cleaning up the opening a bit with my extaco knife, and harper(my hundred pound sweetheart of a dog) did dog things and now one handle is slit open. Would the best option be c.a. glue, a solvent type type , or something else? Just looking for some options. The handle is still intact and attached,  just slit on one end. The blade is pointing to the damage.

[JollySipper]

Do you have a kit of something that has separate handles? You might could just shave those off and replace them with copies of the separate handles from the other kit. Or just use the separate part ones......

[yh70]

i would use some JB Kwik Weld . easy to sand.      

Edited October 20, 2024 by yh70

[StevenGuthmiller]

Just shave them off, sand smooth, and order some from Fireball Modelworks.  
They’re not expensive, and a lot easier to deal with than drilling them out.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[johnyrotten]

24 minutes ago, JollySipper said:

Do you have a kit of something that has separate handles? You might could just shave those off and replace them with copies of the separate handles from the other kit. Or just use the separate part ones......

Thanks for replying,  none of my kits have separate handles of this style. 

[johnyrotten]

19 minutes ago, yh70 said:

i would use some JB Kwik Weld . easy to sand.      

I have this on hand, I imagine filling the whole opening, waiting for it to cure, and re-drilling sanding ect. would be the best course of action. Minus the visit from my dog, of course. 

[johnyrotten]

17 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Just shave them off, sand smooth, and order some from Fireball Modelworks.  
They’re not expensive, and a lot easier to deal with than drilling them out.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Thanks, if I can't save these, this is definitely an option. 

[slusher]

Great options but Steve has a great option…

[NOBLNG]

You’ve got nothing to lose by trying a repair. I would likely try some Tamiya thin if you can press the cut shut enough so it bonds…and let it dry very well before proceeding. Thin CA would likely work also. You will need to be extra careful when shaping it now. 

Edited October 21, 2024 by NOBLNG

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

Thanks, if I can't save these, this is definitely an option. 

Since Fireball began producing these, and I discovered that they were available, I use them on every project that uses this style of door handles.

The scale seems to be perfect, and they look so much better than the vast majority of separate handles included in most modern kits.

They carry GM style, Mopar and Ford, and even GM style truck handles, and they are designed to be used for 1/25th and 1/24th scale.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[Straightliner59]

I would agree, regarding the Fireball Modelworks parts. All Joseph's stuff is top-notch! If I was going to repair yours, I would use a liquid cement. It will create a joint as strong as the plastic,  and, when you press the ends together,  you should get a little "ooze", which will become its own filler.

[yh70]

12 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

I have this on hand, I imagine filling the whole opening, waiting for it to cure, and re-drilling sanding ect. would be the best course of action. Minus the visit from my dog, of course. 

if it dont work out for you and you have to order from Fireball i think i got some of his. just message me and ill ck.

[NOBLNG]

Fireball part numbers.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 21, 2024 by NOBLNG

[Straightliner59]

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks for those, Greg.

[johnyrotten]

I just want to thank everyone for their advice. You all are awesome. I'm goingto try my hand a repairing these, it's great to know there's options if that doesn't work out. Thanks again. 

[JollySipper]

The Best Forum...............

[peteski]

Yes solvent cement will remelt and weld the plastic back to single piece.  You can also add some more plastic if needed to build up the thickness. But make sure to wait few days to allow all the solvent to evaporate, or the plastic will stay softer.

[johnyrotten]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

Yes solvent cement will remelt and weld the plastic back to single piece.  You can also add some more plastic if needed to build up the thickness. But make sure to wait few days to allow all the solvent to evaporate, or the plastic will stay softer.

This is exactly why I asked the question,  recently I was working ith some .020 styrene bent tightly around a curve, as soon as the cement touched it (mr cement s) it just split on me. Tried a few different times,  same result. Did not want to have the handle do the same. Thanks for your insight ? 

[peteski]

Yes, some Evergreen strip styren behaves like that when under stress (being bent).  But since there is no stress on the door handle, that should be no problem. Also in my experience cements based on MEK affect plastic that way, but not cement based on Methylene Chloride.  Not sure how Tamiya cement affects stressed styrene  (f that's what you use).

Edited October 22, 2024 by peteski

[johnyrotten]

18 minutes ago, peteski said:

Yes, some Evergreen strip styren behaves like that when under stress (being bent).  But since there is no stress on the door handle, that should be no problem. Also in my experience cements based on MEK affect plastic that way, but not cement based on Methylene Chloride.  Not sure how Tamiya cement affects stressed styrene  (f that's what you use).

Most of what I do with models as far scratch building goes, is just using my knowledge as a fabricator. Steel and styrene may behave similarly in some ways, not in the case I was working with. Just part of the learning curve. I have testors liquid cement,  old school testors tube glue, multiple c.a. glue's, and both of the small square bottles of solvent cement sold at hobby lobby. Mr. Hobby I believe is the brand. 

[peteski]

Testors liquid cement is mostly MEK.  It will crack thin stressed styrene strips. It also has a slower evaporation rate than methylene chloride.

Tenax 7R (or whatever its name was) was Methylene Chloride. It is no longer available but there are alternatives. One is to get a quart of Methlylene Chloride from amazon and have enough for the rest of your life.  You could purchase hobby-size bottle of Styrene Tack-It II plastic welder from www.jmhobbysupply.com Some hobby shops stock it too (mine does). I also believe Micro_Mark also sells similar liquid cement.

[johnyrotten]

Success. I managed to get it repaired,  and actually cleaned up I think the repair will work. Let me know how you all think it looks, and thanks again for the advice, and the education. 

Edited October 22, 2024 by johnyrotten
Missing word

[johnyrotten]

21 minutes ago, peteski said:

Testors liquid cement is mostly MEK.  It will crack thin stressed styrene strips. It also has a slower evaporation rate than methylene chloride.

Tenax 7R (or whatever its name was) was Methylene Chloride. It is no longer available but there are alternatives. One is to get a quart of Methlylene Chloride from amazon and have enough for the rest of your life.  You could purchase hobby-size bottle of Styrene Tack-It II plastic welder from www.jmhobbysupply.com Some hobby shops stock it too (mine does). I also believe Micro_Mark also sells similar liquid cement.

This is what I ended up using. Thank you for the insight,  the other type of this brand I have seems to be very "hot". 

[peteski]

I'm glad it worked out. I have never used that brand/type of liquid cement. Any chance that it lists its ingredients (in English)?

[johnyrotten]

Ingredients and manufacturers info. I was originally looking to tamiya but there are no hobby shops local to me that carry much in the way of modeling. I prefer to support small businesses when I can.