Need some Tips on Fit?

[Sparky88]

I need some tips mainly on pre fitting. This was my latest build. By far the most difficult.

Fitting the body to the chassis was pretty challenging. I did take it apart to refit it. I ground down the corners of the dash on each side and did fit better, but still leaves a lot to be desired. I am just getting back into the hobby since I retired. 

What is the process you use for pre fitting the interior and chassis to the body?

Also the stance on my latest builds always looks like the back end needs to be jacked up. I know some models have little blocks between the shackles and the chassis to raise the rear end. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated. I will be advancing my skills adding window trim on my next builds. 

Thanks in advance.

Sparky

[stitchdup]

it looks like your dash might not quite level and holding the cowl area from dropping in place. i dont have that kit so i cant be sure. if that is the problem it might also be making the stance look off so i would try adjusting the dash if you can. have a look at some other builds ups and you can compare them, it sometimes helps

[espo]

Test fitting and mockups done many times before even thinking about paint seems to be the norm anymore. While the detailing that the kit makers are putting into kits is improving with most new issues these details also make the different parts hard to get to align with one another often. Your mention of issues with the interior fitting on your latest build and I have shared the same problem as well. When test fitting the interior also look at the area where the windshield and rear window would mount. One area that seems to happen most often has to do with the width of the area where the dash in mounted in the interior and where that will set inside the body. The windshield will sometimes extend below the point where the top of the dash meets the underside of the lower windshield molding, and the windshield will prevent the interior from mounting high enough into the body and in turn does not allow the chassis to mount inside of the body correctly. County to ten and taking a break can also help. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I agree with David.

Mock up and test fit, test fit, test fit!

And when you think you’ve got it all dialed in, test fit again!

All of these issues should be investigated and resolved well before a drop of primer hits the surface.

This is one of the most prevalent problems I see on the Facebook groups.

People get into too much of a rush and their first instinct is to take the parts out of the box and immediately begin painting.

And then they can’t understand why nothing goes together as they expected.

I often don’t even begin painting the body until nearly everything else is finished, or has at least been so closely scrutinized that it’s without question that everything will go together properly.

Once you begin to get into kit bashing and modifying, you’ll find that mock-ups and test fitting is probably the most crucial thing you’ll do during the course of a build.

 

 

 

Steve

[Sparky88]

Thanks for the replies Espo and Steve and I notice on the Duster the wind shield was very thick, probably taking up space where the Dash should tuck in. I did use a Dremel to grind down the sides of the dash. Found that in another post. Good tips ! I will be test fitting more closely for sure!

Thank You! Much appreciated!

Sparky👍✌️

[LennyB]

Mark, just to let you know that kit has issues fitting together. There is not enough clearance for the interior to fit up into the body. I built this kit and actually had to flush fit the quarter windows for everything to go together. It's not you, it's just the kit. I had others tell me the same thing. Sometimes it helps to look at other builds of the kit you are working on to see what problems may arise.

[Sparky88]

Thanks Lenny, I did see some other posts about the fitting issues. Tried to work around them. The glass was very thick on this model. On to my next build shortly.

Tried not to get to discourage on this one. 😆

[Steamboat]

It can also be the interference between the interior door panels and the windshield.  Either of them can be filed down to make it fit.  

It seems like I almost always end up lowering the dash a little bit.

Not the case with the Duster kit, but if the windshield and rear window are molded as one piece, I remove the connecting piece that goes between them, allowing for a more precise fit of each piece.

For stance correction, the front can sometimes be lowered by flipping the spindles or cutting some material off the top of the spindle and adding to the bottom.  This can also escalate into having to shave thickness from the wheel wells to make the tires fit!

Like others have said, test fit before paint.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Reading this thread is another reinforcing reminder of why I routinely replace kit glass with thinner sheet plastic.

Kit glass presents numerous issues, and this is one of them.

 

That said, it's usually a much easier operation the grind down the lower edge of the glass than it is to alter interior parts.

Just put the glass into the body shell where it's going to sit, mark the glass from the inside with a sharpy just below the lower edge of the window frame, and then grind up to the mark with a Dremel.

From there you can refine with files or sand paper until you get a good fit between the dash, door panels and glass.

 

Again, these are things that should be done prior to painting and everything, but should you find yourself in this sort of predicament late in the process, it's much easier and less evasive to address the glass than to start messing with finished interior pieces.

 

 

Steve

[bobss396]

I like the guys who paint the body as the first thing.

This is the last thing I do.

Almost any kit, I will take .040" to .060" off each chassis side. Any sharp corners get a nice radius.

About 99% of model car bodies curve too far in at the rockers. On the inside of the body at the rockers, I thin them out. My plan is to get the body off and on without a fight.

At the rear quarter panels, I bond in styrene blocks and drill through the chassis and pin that. I use either something not plastic, 1/32" or 3/64". The through-hole can be opened to facilitate it going together nicely.

I will also pin the front chassis to the body where it will be hidden.

Interior tubs, I sometimes make up hidden tabs and possibly pin that in place. Always test fit with the dash and glass.

I used to cut out those connecting straps on the glass, not so much any more. If I do, I fab locating strips (attached to the roof) so the glass fits easily. Sometimes I get lucky and the glass will snap into place. I use as little epoxy or canopy glue as possible.

[StevenGuthmiller]

6 hours ago, bobss396 said:

My plan is to get the body off and on without a fight.

That's a good thing to mention.

I find myself routinely re-checking fit between the chassis, interior and body repeatedly, even after paint, just to dial in certain assemblies and parts, so you want your chassis to fit relatively tightly, but not so tight as to make it a bear to take apart again.

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

7 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I like the guys who paint the body as the first thing.

I despise them!!

Especially on the Facebook groups where they seem to outnumber everyone else.

You can try until your face turns blue to make people understand some of the basics of conscientious building, but it never really seems to sink in.

 

 

 

Steve

[Belugawrx]

I can't paint the body until everything else is nailed down...test fit test fit test fit...then a big clean of the body and prime, paint

[Bucky]

I usually build the engine to my liking first thing. Then I test fit body, windows, interior, chassis, and engine in order to make sure the hood fits right. Most times I build the front and rear suspension assemblies next and test fit those. Then I turn my attention to any work the body and interior may need. 

[bobss396]

Nothing worse that scraping a new paint job in final assembly. I break all edges or put a good radius on any corners. 

[Sparky88]

Lots of good tips. Thanks, to all!

[bobss396]

9 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I despise them!!

Especially on the Facebook groups where they seem to outnumber everyone else.

You can try until your face turns blue to make people understand some of the basics of conscientious building, but it never really seems to sink in.

Steve

I like the guys who ask for tips on saving a gummed up jar of Testors enamel paint, with the 15 cent price on the lid.

[StevenGuthmiller]

10 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I like the guys who ask for tips on saving a gummed up jar of Testors enamel paint, with the 15 cent price on the lid.

😄

 

 

 

Steve

[slusher]

Mark, I have built three Dusters and alway I have to trim the dash tabs on each end and push it a little lower an I turn it a little to to help it fit thee windshield..  

[bobss396]

8 hours ago, slusher said:

Mark, I have built three Dusters and alway I have to trim the dash tabs on each end and push it a little lower an I turn it a little to to help it fit thee windshield..  

I usually make my own dash-to-tub mounting feature if the fit is on the wonky side... heck, I'll pin those in place too at times. 

[Beans]

On the don't paint it right away topic,  I agree with everything said, but....   I will sometimes put a light coat of primer on just so that when I test fit I can see where the friction points are and know where I need to shave off a little here or there.

[bobss396]

56 minutes ago, Beans said:

On the don't paint it right away topic,  I agree with everything said, but....   I will sometimes put a light coat of primer on just so that when I test fit I can see where the friction points are and know where I need to shave off a little here or there.

That is a good idea. I'll use pencil marks to do the same thing. Or tape something of a known size in place, to see how much room you have to work with.

The last thing you want is late-build surprises.

We had an older gent in the club, no longer with us .. he was good at painting himself into a corner.

He had some futuristic build with a big plastic canopy. He realized late in the build that there was no way to mount it.

Things like that should be the FIRST thing to square away. If it is botched, the whole build is garbage.

One thing in my past were T-Bird and Corvette windshield frames and glass. Do that right away and put it in an envelope and seal it up. 

[NOBLNG]

I like to cover the glass inside and out with a wide piece of Tamiya tape. Trim the tape then fit the glass. You can trace the opening onto the tape from the outside with a fineline pen or pencil to see how much excess could possibly be trimmed. The tape also keeps it from getting scuffed during the fitting process.

Edited March 10 by NOBLNG