PatW Posted Tuesday at 09:50 PM Posted Tuesday at 09:50 PM I'm building a rally car and tape and photo etch buckles have come with the kit, but the tape (seat belt material) is difficult to get through the photo-etch buckles. I've tried to cut a pointed end on the tape but it's still to wide to get through the buckle! I've had this problem many times before, even to print my own seat belt decals. What am I doing wrong?
NOBLNG Posted Tuesday at 10:35 PM Posted Tuesday at 10:35 PM I have put a tiny bit of CA on the tip of the belt to keep it from fraying. Then trim it a bit to enter the slot easier.
PatW Posted Wednesday at 07:20 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 07:20 AM Cheers Greg I'll try that today, thanks.
Straightliner59 Posted Wednesday at 11:28 AM Posted Wednesday at 11:28 AM (edited) I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied. Edited Wednesday at 11:29 AM by Straightliner59 3
Mark W Posted Wednesday at 01:36 PM Posted Wednesday at 01:36 PM (edited) 2 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied. You’re right, the lead foil looks the best! Is that what you used to connect the intake manifolds on the hemi? Edited Wednesday at 01:37 PM by Mark W 1
Beans Posted Wednesday at 03:03 PM Posted Wednesday at 03:03 PM 3 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied. Definitely going to do this!! I hate fighting the ribbon. Just need more bottles of wine!!! 1
Straightliner59 Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM 6 hours ago, Mark W said: You’re right, the lead foil looks the best! Is that what you used to connect the intake manifolds on the hemi? Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps. 1
Straightliner59 Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM 4 hours ago, Beans said: Definitely going to do this!! I hate fighting the ribbon. Just need more bottles of wine!!! Nothing wrong with that! 2
Pierre Rivard Posted Wednesday at 08:53 PM Posted Wednesday at 08:53 PM 1 hour ago, Straightliner59 said: Nothing wrong with that! Technical question Daniel. Do you make the straps before... or after drinking the bottle of wine? 2
PatW Posted Wednesday at 09:13 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 09:13 PM (edited) Thanks guys! I've actually made two seat belts that go over the back to a fixing and lay on the front of the seat. They only took about an hour! Now, tomorrow perhaps two more! OH what do you use to cut the photo-etch from their sprue please? Edited Wednesday at 09:18 PM by PatW
Straightliner59 Posted Wednesday at 09:49 PM Posted Wednesday at 09:49 PM 55 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said: Technical question Daniel. Do you make the straps before... or after drinking the bottle of wine? I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅 1
Mark W Posted yesterday at 11:23 AM Posted yesterday at 11:23 AM 14 hours ago, PatW said: Thanks guys! I've actually made two seat belts that go over the back to a fixing and lay on the front of the seat. They only took about an hour! Now, tomorrow perhaps two more! OH what do you use to cut the photo-etch from their sprue please? I use a curved Xacto blade and rock it back and forth. The you can clean up any nubs with a one edged razor blade on a piece of glass. Works better than slicing.
sidcharles Posted yesterday at 11:54 AM Posted yesterday at 11:54 AM i have snippers dedicated for p.e. [9180ET] Photo Etch Tools for Modelers - The Xuron® Tool Blog for the bigly cutting. to get rid of the nubs, Opti-visor magnifier, deep breath, and good light, coupled with the above mentioned Xacto #10 blade X-Acto #10 General Purpose Blade, 5/Pack (X210) - One Shot Supplies, Inc. - Where Hawaii Gets Its Color cut on a piece of glass. any hard surface [tile, et cetera] will do, but a cutting mat deflects enough to distort the piece you are cutting. sometimes no problem, sometimes it can be an added step to correct. any irregular edge can be smoothed with a foam sanding stick [240 grit or finer is good for me] stedi Sanding Sticks, Model Hobby Making Tools, Polishing Sanding Sticks Tools for Gundam Repairing Plastic Model and Miniature Model 6PCS(#400+#600+#800+#1000+#1200+#1500): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific before doing any cutting, i rub down the p.e. with a piece of foam abrasive [320 grit or finer] Amazon.com: KACNON 20Pcs 180-3000 Grit Sanding Sponge Set (180/320/400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000) - Ultra Fine Sanding Sponges Pads with Brush - Soft Foam Sanding Block Dry Wet Sandpaper Assortment : Industrial & Scientific amazing how it removes the sharp edges of the individual pieces, which in turn, allows the p.e. to hold paint more better. 1
Beans Posted yesterday at 12:07 PM Posted yesterday at 12:07 PM 14 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅 Well there goes that plan....Maybe i'll compromise and drink as I do it. 1
Beans Posted yesterday at 12:10 PM Posted yesterday at 12:10 PM 14 minutes ago, sidcharles said: cut on a piece of glass. any hard surface [tile, et cetera] will do, but a cutting mat deflects enough to distort the piece you are cutting. sometimes no problem, sometimes it can be an Ahhhhh that's the key!!! All great information!! I find that putting the PE parts on a piece of doubled over masking tape help from the little parts shooting up into the air, never to be seen again.
peteski Posted yesterday at 12:45 PM Posted yesterday at 12:45 PM 51 minutes ago, sidcharles said: cut on a piece of glass. any hard surface [tile, et cetera] will do, but a cutting mat deflects enough to distort the piece you are cutting. sometimes no problem, sometimes it can be an added step to correct. Yes, it is important to use hard cutting surface, and glass or ceramic tile is the old standby. However those are so hard that they quickly dull the cutting blade. I used to use them at first, but then I started using a piece of 1/16" thick or similar sheet aluminum as the cutting surface. It is hard enough to prevent the photoetched item being cut from distorting, yet it is soft enough not to appreciably dull the cutting blade. Works really well. 3
sidcharles Posted yesterday at 02:09 PM Posted yesterday at 02:09 PM one of the benders* i purchased came with a couple of 1/8" thick smoked acrylic pieces about 4" square. although not hopeful they will improve my life, i must find them and try some day. *i know "real" modelers use a single edge razor blade & steel rule. sometimes you have to support the cottage industry, too. https://youtu.be/-ZU_vNRJyyM?si=-u_vM8mN39KSgiWx
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now