junkyardjeff Posted Sunday at 01:08 AM Posted Sunday at 01:08 AM The windows for my 65 Wildcat are fogged up and can it be buffed out.
Mark Posted Sunday at 02:00 AM Posted Sunday at 02:00 AM Doesn't hurt to try...if things don't work out, look for glass from a reissue '66. You might luck out and find someone on eBay parting one out. Or, try to find an open, started, or damaged one, and get a new interior, engine, and chassis too. 1
junkyardjeff Posted Sunday at 02:47 AM Author Posted Sunday at 02:47 AM I am watching for parts on eBay and have found a stock steering wheel but no glass so far,I will get it ready to assemble and wait for parts. I do have a unbuilt engine coming since the engine in it has the stacked injectors and headers,I want this one stock
stitchdup Posted Sunday at 02:55 AM Posted Sunday at 02:55 AM the hasegawa buick glass should also fit
bobss396 Posted Sunday at 12:25 PM Posted Sunday at 12:25 PM I would start wet sanding with a polishing kit. It may depend on how it was fogged. With CA glue, YMMV. Start with around 2000 grit up to 12,000 and see if it improves. 1
dphipps Posted Sunday at 12:46 PM Posted Sunday at 12:46 PM I have touched up CA fogged windows with Meguires PlastX plastic polish before and had good results, however it was never this severe. As said above some fine sanding before polish might be needed. I'm kind of curious what it would look like with some Future clear over it
Geno Posted Sunday at 02:47 PM Posted Sunday at 02:47 PM 2 hours ago, bobss396 said: I would start wet sanding with a polishing kit. It may depend on how it was fogged. With CA glue, YMMV. Start with around 2000 grit up to 12,000 and see if it improves. Yes, I have done this with great success. 💯👍
peteski Posted Sunday at 04:40 PM Posted Sunday at 04:40 PM I'm curious as to how the fogging happened. Going by the shape of the fogged area of the "glass" it seems to have been removed from an assembled model and only and only the the exposed "glass" area got damaged. Could it have just been sprayed with Dullcote? It wouldn't have fogged up like that just by itself.
blizzy63 Posted Sunday at 05:08 PM Posted Sunday at 05:08 PM Last time I saw something like that on clear window glass was the effects of excessive clear lacquer... I would at least attempt to restore with my old Novus plastic polishes. I always used them on old kit clear window/windshield glass. 1
espo Posted Sunday at 05:52 PM Posted Sunday at 05:52 PM For polishing any plastic lens and especially on the models we build I use a Meguire product that is for polishing plastic lenses on full size cars. I even used it to polish water spots out of the plexiglass windshields on a couple of boats in the past.
johnyrotten Posted Sunday at 06:18 PM Posted Sunday at 06:18 PM That's gotta be a record. Like others have said, wet sand and polishing is in order. Or replace/ make new "glass". Good luck, and let us know how it turns out if you save it.
Hi-Po Posted Sunday at 07:04 PM Posted Sunday at 07:04 PM If that is actually a clear coat of paint, dull or otherwise, I would first try giving the windshield a bath in Super Clean to see if that will remove the majority of the fogging. Then I would use Novus #1 and/or #2 to polish out any scratches that might be hiding under the fogging. A dip in some Future would be the final step in the process. 1
junkyardjeff Posted Sunday at 08:49 PM Author Posted Sunday at 08:49 PM It was togather and no clue on what happened to it,the body was not painted and had yellowed so all I can say is it was not treated very well or exposed to the weather.
peteski Posted Sunday at 09:19 PM Posted Sunday at 09:19 PM That is strange. Maybe the yellowing was due to sunlight (UV) exposure and it also affect the clear plastic? I agree that likely the best way to try repairing it will be to use some sort of abrasive method others mentioned, and maybe give it a final coat of Future floor finish (or whatever that stuff is called now, or one of its equivalents).
rattle can man Posted Sunday at 11:20 PM Posted Sunday at 11:20 PM If it was yellowed (yellowed plastic and yellowed paint do look different), combined with the windshield pic, the whole model was clear coated once assembled. Clearcoats tend to yellow, esp. old enamel Testors clears. And the clear would result in the frosted appearance. I have some of the first models I built decades ago and thought you should clear coat every part to protect the finish. I figured out the frosted look on the clear within a day. The yellowing took a year or two. A tip I learned from this site is to back it with some clay when sanding and polishing to prevent cracking and breaking it.
StevenGuthmiller Posted yesterday at 04:12 AM Posted yesterday at 04:12 AM Personally, I wouldn’t waste my time. Get some .007 “lay film” and replace the glass. In nearly every case, kit glass is entirely too thick and looks completely out of scale and unrealistic anyway. I only re-use kit glass if it’s an odd shape, or has compound curves that are difficult to form with flat, clear sheet plastic. Thin plastic will give you a much more realistic looking windshield, and you won’t have to waste your time trying to save basket cases. These models have all had the glass replaced with lay film. Steve 1
junkyardjeff Posted yesterday at 02:23 PM Author Posted yesterday at 02:23 PM Cleaned it up and much better 3
Bucky Posted yesterday at 02:45 PM Posted yesterday at 02:45 PM Looks great! What method did you end up using?
junkyardjeff Posted 14 hours ago Author Posted 14 hours ago Sanded started with 1000 to 5000 and buffed with plastic cleaner.
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