DRG Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I am so pleased with the way the 62 Pontiac is coming along I am actually afraid to try this BMF on it. The paint job is looking real good, I like the interior and the engine area is shaping up nicely. But I guess I have to give it a whirl don't I. Say a prayer, before the day is over it will be foiled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
envious8420 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 you'll do just fine. take your time and keep a supply of new #11s handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 That is looking good, but chrome is a big part of that car. BMF is not that bad and the results will make you glad you did it. I'd suggest starting on the side trim as that looks well defined and straight. My main tools for this are Q-tip, round toothpick and NEW blade. As long as there's a good edge for the blade to follow it goes smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemodeler Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Don, Take your time, don't try to do it all at once. I often take up to a week or more to BMF a car because I tend to stress out over it and I suspect your fear might cause the same issue. I waited a long time to finally BMF my models and now that I have, I enjoy the look of them when they are done. I have about 4 or 5 models that are at that stage and that is what is holding them back from being in the display cases! As a wise man once said......Patience Grasshopper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slantasaurus Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) If you're happy with the way your 62 is going now it will only get better with BMF. Once you've added it to your first model you won't believe how much it improves the overall result. Many people complain about BMFing but I actually enjoy it. Go solw, use NEW blades (can't stress that enough), Q-tips and toothpicks help get it smoothed out and into the small areas, use NEW blades, and if the BMF starts to tear when you cut it on the model or on the sheet......use a NEW blade. It really isn't any harder than decaling a model. Repeat after me.....go slow, use NEW blades.... And the Pontiac is looking good so far. Edited February 20, 2011 by slantasaurus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra7c7er Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I can't add anymore to what has been mentioned. Just go slow and change blades often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Go for it! One thing I've heard is that the normal chrome foil sticks better than the Ultra Bright foil. I have had problems with this. Luckily, you can polish it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Don, once you get the first piece laid down on the side trim, get in burnished and trimmed, you're gonna go, "Oh hell yeah", and that will be that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Remember, a light touch on the blade! Some say the weight of the knife is all you need. If you are tense and stressed, you may put too much pressure on the blade. Thin foil will cut easily... go easy, trim one panel at a time! Want to try something different? For long, thin chrome strips, use "eyeball measuring" to cut the foil to the correct width... right on the sheet. Then peel it up, and apply it like yow were adding pinstriping tape to a car. If it doesn't lay down straight, peel it up and try again. No matter how you do it, save the final burnishing for last; after all the trimming. I know you will do just fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 GOTTA agree with Rob. Once you SEE how NICE it looks, and what LITTLE you did to make it that way, You'll just say DANG,. That DOES look good, a VIOLA!! Off you'll go! AND your builds WILL be the BETTER for it! Like the Nike ads say, "Just do it!" :lol: (oh, and keep those blades SHARP!!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Another tip. I have used a whetstone to sharpen new #11 blades even more before using them on BMF. Also, once a blade is too dull for using on BMF, it's still plenty sharp enough to use on other models when needed. You don't need to throw it away just because it's too dull for foil. I second this. I have 4 different levels of what my blades go through. They have their separate labeled containers as they pass through their different levels. They are: 1) Brand new. Good for BMFing and photoetch metal parts. 2) After BMFing or using for photoetch. Good for general modeling. 3) After much use and what I feel is dull it then gets used for stuff like rescribing panel lines 4) Garbage Might as well get as much use out of them as possible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRG Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Ok, I have tried BMF. It is a pain in the ??? But it does look better than leaving it body color. Had a real hard time getting blade to stay on track. But heh, at least I'm trying, right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Don, once you get the hang of it, you'll ask youself why you waited so long to start doing it. For me,it's a lot faster and easier than painting the chrome. Unlike paint,if you mess up,you can just pull it back off and start over. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Ok, I have tried BMF. It is a pain in the ??? But it does look better than leaving it body color. Had a real hard time getting blade to stay on track. But heh, at least I'm trying, right. Donald, next time try this trick. Before you start buildng get a panel scriber, and rescribe all of the panels,around the windows,and wiper blade areas. Lightly making about 2or3 passes. This will help deepen those and make it easier to compensate for paint and clear buildup. Allowing your knife follow the path more Easily. I also found a new style of knife at Walmart in the stationary section which wraps around your finger, Essentially putting the blade at your finger tip.It is made by fiskers an cost about $3.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I've found that the trick to trimming the foil straight is to not try so hard! It's true. If you "concentrate" and reeeeealllly try to follow that line, you tend to tense up and your hand becomes stiff. Let the blade follow allong the edge of the molded-in trim without trying too hard to guide the blade. A sharp, new blade will follow that raised edge of trim just fine, without the need for much pressure on the knife, as long as you keep your hand relaxed. And the best way to get the hang of this technique is by practicing on scrap or junk bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niteowl7710 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I accidentally bought blades that were too big for a standard X-Acto handle one time...and I was foiling something, so I decided to use those blades since I wasn't going to pay the $$ to get a specific handle for them. Now when I do my BMFing I don't even put the blades into the handle (I also still use the larger blades). I know people right now are probably cringing at how unsafe it is to use razor blades without putting them far away from your fingers, but it's what works for me. And echoing everyone on the patience front. BMFing is like doing complex decal work...it's going to take as long as it's going to take, you can't rush it, or try to take short cuts. I always draw up a plan of attack of what I want to get done in a particular session, then if that session goes smoothly expand to further areas. If it's a rough go, then once I finish it, I put everything down and walk away for awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I tried a trick that made the difference for me. I start with a new #11 blade and mark the point with a black sharpie. Then I wrap masking tape around the mount of the blade. Now my fingers are right where I am cutting..made a BIG difference for me and my old eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I actually have something new to add here. I have always noticed that there is a small burr at the tip of a new X-acto blade left over from the grinding process used to sharpen it. Look at it under a magnifier once. I get rid of it by pressing the blade sideways against something hard until you feel it break off. The burr will tend to gather up the foil as you try to cut it. Also lay the handle over at about a 30 to 45 degree angle in the direction you are cutting, and then drag it slowly along. The blade will follow along the trim better that way. All of the other tips given here are good ones too. Use them all and find out what works well for you. The important thing is to try it, and then try it again and again and after a bit you will never build a model again without applying BMF. It won't be perfect the first or even the 5th time but it will get better and better. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I just started attempting to foil. Like everything else, I do my research. One trick I picked up on one of the boards is the use of low sticking tape like painters tape. I have used this for foiling the metal in pickup beds. Tape up to the edge of where you want to foil. Apply the foil and burnish it down to where it meets the tape. A nice edge to follow will be created at the cut line. When you'r done, peal the tape and the trimmed foil comes up with it leaving a nice surface with no glue residue to clean up. Works real well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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