Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Now here is how they look after pulling them out of the Jig. You can see  how much shorter they are in length compared to the original length (ones on top):

 

Here is a pic of them mocked up and installed on the firewall:

 

Now all of them mocked up and installed on the main portion of the body tin:

 

As well as the opposite side of the fire wall:

 


These rivets still need to be glued in place which is going to suck but has to be done and I also still need to make a few more for the fire window covers as well as the steering linkage cover that gets attached to the body tins.

Posted (edited)

Hey...............wait a second.............I counted 338 rivets, shouldn't it be 341 Chris?   :o    Stunning is all I can say.  cheers, tim

Edited by Codi
Posted

Fascinating.  Captivating.  Riveting, actually.  ^_^

If Danno can get away with that, I can get away with this:

monkey%20rivets.jpg

Beautiful symmetry Brother. Well worth the time and effort.

 

 

Posted

Those silver rivets look great in contrast to the black tins. I can see why you were dreading this but they look awesome. Better run a big magnet over your floor, wouldn't be fun to get one of those ends stuck in your big toe.

What is your plan for gluing them in place? What glue do you plan on using?

Posted

Wow! That's a whole lot of rivets :D ! I bet sanding those to correct length and then gluing them on might not be the funniest possible things in model building, but after it's done the result looks fantastic. Those body tins looked very good even before the rivets, but now with the rivets mocked up the tins are even better. Excellent work as always. Every time I get to visit here on this forum, it's always neat to see what progress you've done. This is one of the most interesting builds anywhere that I've seen. Can't wait to see the next update.

Posted

Henry... Thanks, I will admit there have been a few of them that have gone flying across the room when I was trying to install them so I had to trim a few more.

Danno... Thanks!! Hey are your doing to count them at DSC?? :P

Scott... Thanks Brother. I am so glad that I decided to go with the Stainless rivets versus using Brass and painting over them. As you mentioned that contrast just pops and I couldn't be happier with it. Now the next best thing is to when I can install this piece into the body... which is who knows when :lol:

Bob... Thank you.

Tim... Thanks, I think you are right my friend. I must of missed a few.... hehe. Actually I still need 6 for each fire window and I think about another 5 for the steering linkage cover.

Joe... Thanks man... Would of been funny if the Monkey had a rivet in his mouth instead of a beer can tab... wait maybe that monkey is smarter than we think... :lol:

Brad... Thank you. Yes I was dreading them. well part of the reason was because they are stainless rivets and my cutter is basically shot from them since they are typically harder than the tool. But I also knew it was going to take forever to trim every one of them. You are right that you wouldn't want to step on them.. haha. As far as how I am going to glue them in. I haven't  completely decided that yet. Here are a few of my thoughts..... 1st idea is to push the rivets back from the hole just a tad and then either use Micro Scales Krystal Kleer or some Acrylic Glue I got from Art, put a little dab in the hole and then press the rivet in.... 2nd Idea is to possibly use some Future floor wax and basically just brush some on from the back side and let it wick in between the shank and the hole. I have heard of people using future to glue photoetch Dzus fasteners and things like that onto cars. I haven't been able to get it to work very good for me but maybe I was doing something wrong.  My 3rd Idea was to take some Vallejo flat clear or semi gloss clear and brush on the back side of the rivets. I guess my 4th idea is I could take very small amounts of Zap a gap and just dap the ends of the rivets with them being installed. They just need enough to keep them in place and from falling out. Maybe I need to test each of these. All other ideas are welcome too.

John... Thanks my Brother. I really do appreciate the thoughts and prayers during this time.

Nikko... Thank you my friend... Yeah I think it was way too many rivets... haha. I am very happy with the end result on how they look and i will admit that the time it took me to trim and sand them all was well worth the time and I think it made the tin look better than I original though it would. I appreciate the kind words. hopefully I will have even more progress the next time you check in here.

Posted

 

Danno... Thanks!! Hey are your doing to count them at DSC?? :P

Perhaps.  But we certainly can't disclose secret judging criteria and techniques!   :D

 

 

2nd Idea is to possibly use some Future floor wax and basically just brush some on from the back side and let it wick in between the shank and the hole. I have heard of people using future to glue photoetch Dzus fasteners and things like that onto cars. I haven't been able to get it to work very good for me but maybe I was doing something wrong.  My 3rd Idea was to take some Vallejo flat clear or semi gloss clear and brush on the back side of the rivets.

Seriously, Chris, I'd steer clear (no pun intended) from your 2nd and 3rd ideas.  It seems to me that Future and paint may be too thin to risk.  Their viscosity may allow too much wicking and result in runs or blobs or seepage on your beautiful tins.  Myself, I'd suggest sticking with the thicker products like Art's glue or gap-filling CA applied from the back side.  An extra advantage is that a tiny bead would/could represent the formed end of the rivet.

Just thinking out loud.  B)

  

Posted

Mercy.....another idea to steal.....I mean borrow. Where did you get the rivets?

 

Another killer detail on a killer model.

Posted

I think if you use CA glue it needs to be the non fogging kind. Honestly if it was me I would use the same clear that is on the panels. This way if too much gets on there the sheen will be close to whats on there now. Possibly you could use epoxy but it will show if too much is applied!

Posted

I've figured out a way that will be a complete pain in the what what.

Make a test piece painted exactly the way the tins are. Then you can test your little heart out.

I'm rooting for Future actually. I've been trying to create a reason to try it and it would be much easier if someone else did it for me (us). :D

Posted

I haven't been on the forum for quite sometime and I had to look in on this masterpiece Chris......stunning, jaw dropping and absolutely fantastic! The details just keep amazing me.....OUT OF SIGHT!

Posted

To me, it depends on how tight the rivets are in the holes. If they're fairly snug, Elmer's may be the way to go since its water soluble and could be cleaned up easily. Elmer's will hold unless of course you plan on immersing this in water.  LOL

Posted

Sflam... thank you for the kind words.

Danno... thank you. I didn't take that into consideration and don't want that happening. as to why I wanted to hear people's thoughta and ideas.. I also kind of thought about that the bead could represent the formed end like you said.

Mike... thank you. the rivets are from scale hardware  and now that they are not in business anymore, I am trying to locate another source for hardware like this. I have two potential sources thst may work great just need to see if they will ship to the states.

Paul... I have zap a gap and plasti-zap which I don't think think should fog but that was my concern with the CA. I didn't even think of using the same brand clear.

Joe... thanks buddy. I will have to see aboit testing them because I am curious too.aboit future but I may not test it on the body tin so I don't mess it up.

Darryl... thanks for stopping by to check things out.  I miss seeing your awesome work around here. I appreciate the kind words.

Brad... the holes have a nice fit. but some may of been drilled out a tad more. I was thinking the same thing it would be easy to wipe down with water.

Dave... thank you. I appreciate it

Posted

Mike... thank you. the rivets are from scale hardware  and now that they are not in business anymore, I am trying to locate another source for hardware like this. I have two potential sources thst may work great just need to see if they will ship to the states.

Chris, try Top Studio. They make some detail parts like this but I think they're aluminum. Hiro-boy.com has a bunch of their stuff.

Paul

Posted

Paul.... I nevet even thought about top stuido. I will have to take a look. although I have 2 sources I am checking out. Had a dear friend send me a link to one of them over the weekend. They are over seas but may not be a bad thing because they have threaded bolts that go down to .6 mm bolts. I am working on an updated  hardware spreadsheet as well.

Brad I will have to take a look.

Posted

Thanks Brad! I couldn't remember and I was on my phone. They're usually the first place I look outside of the U.S. I've ordered a few things from them including paint and never had a problem!

 

Posted

Chris - the local place I was finally able to look at and no way. I took in a few of the Scale Hardware bolts and he said he had never seen anything so small. If you put an over seas order together, let me know. I'd like to jump in on that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...