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FULL BUILD REVIEW: 1/12 Revell Shelby Mustang GT500


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This is looking very nice Dave and I might be tempted to buy one, although given my tendency to not finish, I probably will buy the smaller scale version. It looks like this goes together well and is fairly well detailed, despite some of the simple approach taken by Revell.

I did notice on the Modelroundup site tonight that they show this kit as "just arrived" and they are selling it for $55.90. It will be interesting to see how long before the aftermarket has parts and detail items available for this kit. As has been discussed, there will be a demand for improving some of the perceived shortcomings and omissions.

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What a kool kit! Looks like Revel has hit a home Run! Simple to build & enough detail to look great right out of the box or with a few extra goodies.

Dave, you are doing an awesome job on the build! Looks great.

Way too big of a kit for me to build, then again so is 1/24 scale! The reference pics has been real nice & great reference. I do have the Jada GT-500 kit which is a great kit as well. I have tinkered with it a little, so far.

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Got my kit for a commision build last Saturday. I must say that for a simplified kit it has a "Tamiya" simplification thing happening. The good news is the car I'm building is a "Stripe Delete" car in Kona Blue, but I got a 12oz can from autoexpress.com and it's spot on. I don't have to apply the tacky seat stripes either since they are not part of his package. It's strange, the guy is 67 years old and drives parts for us at NAPA. He worked for Xerox for 35 years so his Hot Rod fetish is fueled by more ample means. His car is a SVT variant with the special handling package, so that means the kit wheels don't match his, but he's cool with that. Bummer for me as I wanted it perfect in every way.

I'll post pix when it's finished.

Bob

Edited by Dragline
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Hi all. New to this forum and this is my first post. I just received this kit this week and I think it's great. And I too hope someone will do aftermarket parts . . . especially stripes as I have a black 11 with silver stripes and would really like to build this to match. The build here is awesome and I have some comments about the kit. I saw in the instructions that Revell calls out a different color for the valve covers than what is on my car. The 11 has a flat finish blue. I don't know if the 10 was different. The Gurney flap is not adjustable, not red, and not carbon. The flap is different between the regular car and that with the performance package. The regular "flap" is flat. The other has a slight lip on its trailing edge. I don't know if it sits at a different angle but if it does, it is very slight. The regular lays almost flat but the thing does work. It creates such a low pressure area behind it that the back end is almost always instantly dirty. The headrests are only adjustable up or down. My wife who is shorter than I am hates them. The dash panels are engine turned. I would like to see this replicated in a photo etched part. It is quite distinctive and would be very difficult to do with paint. And the metallic spokes on the wheel do not match it. They are much darker in tone than either the dash or the cobra emblem in the middle of the wheel. I would also like to see somebody do the SHELBY letters in photo etch. The real letters stand out from the vehicle and a decal doesn't do them justice. The outside cobra emblems though are good as plastic pieces. The real ones are about double the thickness of the SHELBY lettering on the back.

If you are interested, a great reference book covering the concept, design and building of the GT500 is available from Shebly American at www.shelbystore.com. Lots of good pictures and a good read too.

And I bought Trumpeter's GT too. In fact, my selection of the colors for my real Shelby was because of the paint scheme on chassis 1046, the 66 Le Mans winner. I hate to admit it but for years, I thought the real colors on this car were black and white and the old IMC kit didn't do anything to help that misconception.

Can't wait to see the next part of the build here . . . and I need to start mine.

Edited by jklesh
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I was over at the local Ford dealership getting the oil changed in my F-150, walked into the showroom and in the center sits a bright red GT500 convertible. One badass car with a $60,000 price tag, of course, that's not including all the other fees. The best part was the hood was open, that engine is crammed in there; make sure you paint your valve covers bright blue, Ford Engine Light Blue specifically.

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I was over at the local Ford dealership getting the oil changed in my F-150, walked into the showroom and in the center sits a bright red GT500 convertible. One badass car with a $60,000 price tag, of course, that's not including all the other fees. The best part was the hood was open, that engine is crammed in there; make sure you paint your valve covers bright blue, Ford Engine Light Blue specifically.

Not all are painted blue, I found some photos just like david done, except the front of the supercharger should be black.

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Yup. The iron plants in the 2010s are generally finished this way:

m5lp_0908_08_z+2010_shelby_gt500+engine.jpg

where the aluminum mills in the 2011+ are generally done like this:

m5lp_1010_10_o+2011_ford_mustang_shelby_gt500_convertible+engine.jpg

And there are enough similarities there that it doesn't look like too much of a fudge to paint the 2010 engine to 2011+ specs. Most obvious things I see are the disappearance of that little reservoir in front of the left head, and the addition of the firewall insulation. You'll find that insulation on the 2011+ GTs too.

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I received this one on Thursday and painted it 68 Shelby Acapulco Blue. When it came to the stripes, they are very thin as previously mentioned and I screwed them up bad. So I had find an alternative. I was going to paint the stripes on but I didn't feel like masking everything off. I measured the width of the decal stripes and found that PVC white electrical tape is the same width. As long as you take your time and try not to stretch it, you get a very flexable stripe that that can be removed without damaging the paint and it come many different colors. Just make sure you get PVC tape, anything else will shrink. I used this for the black window trim that was turning back to chrome with age on my Porsche and it been on the car for 3 years with no shrinkage. This is my 1st post and thought this maybe another idea for the stripes on the Shelby.

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i was looking around for some aftermarket wheels for this kit and found out that the guy over at ebay who sells the torque thruster american racing rims in 1/8 scale plans to make up some resin wheels for this kit . the 19" torque thrusters for a steve mcqueen bullit build of this kit would sell like crazy.

Edited by gridjockey
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i was looking around for some aftermarket wheels for this kit and found out that they guy over at ebay who sells the torque thruster american racing rims in 1/8 scale plans to make up some resin wheels for this kit . the 19" torque thrusters for a steve mcqueen bullit build of this kit would sell like crazy.

I just got my kit Thursday, so I am going to get started on some wheels for this kit this week. I really like the two-piece construction of these wheels and we finally have some modern low-profile tires in 1/12 scale. B)

This kit "feels" an awful lot like Monogram's 1/12 '69 Camaro Z/28 kit, and that's a good thing. :)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Okay,

I know I'm a bit late on this, but the info is good! The color used on the bottom of these Mustangs is olive green Ecoat. SEM sells a spray paint that is dead on for this color. http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=327 You can get this at any good automotive paint supply store (and their black is great for replacement panels). I will soon be carrying a rust color, so anyone who wants to go that route...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Great thread David! Thanks for the tips... just got started on my GT500 replica. Going for the Ingot silver with black stripes paint scheme and anthracite wheels... Problem is, I messed up the wheels really bad (bout of absent-mindedness), is there any way I can get replacements or comparable wheels for the model?

I tried placing an order on Revell's replacement parts site but it doesn't seem to have accepted my order for some reason, even though I received a confirmation email. Please Help!

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