would love to see pics of "can painted" models

[Agent G]

Wayne, love those old police cars, great job on those my friend, is the last one from NV?, cant see the the emblem clear enough to make it out

Yes Sir!

1953 Ford, converted from the Lindbergh kit. I scratch built everything police related except the spotlights.

The black and white is Krylon gloss from a can. The interior is Krylon Sand and Almond from the can.

G

[skmodelcars]

The majority of my builds from about the last 5 years are rattlecan painted.

http://public.fotki....rd-5-window-st/

http://public.fotki....y-pickup-stock/

http://public.fotki....-utility-vette/

http://public.fotki..../mpc-vette-van/

http://public.fotki....do-sport-truck/

http://public.fotki....ado-plow-truck/

http://public.fotki....kenseth-2005-t/

http://public.fotki....lassic-kustom-/

http://public.fotki....kustom-chopper/

http://public.fotki....ala-ss-amt-kit/

http://public.fotki....69-charger-500/

http://public.fotki....an-racer-wedge/

http://public.fotki....evyorangewedge/

Other models are airbrushed with Testors basic airbrush and enamels which proved frustrating more often than not. Some of my old Survivors are brush painted when I was a kid.

Edited March 11, 2012 by skmodelcars

[Rob McKee]

This was done with Tamiya Italian Red spray can.

[Haubenschild]

Tamiya TS-14 black without any clear

Tamiya TS-56 orange without any clear

Tamiya TS-26 white with a heavy coat of Tamiya clear

[deja-view]

Just somethin' to think about: after running through several of the micro-mesh polishing kits I went to the mfgr and bought the large sheets in grits from 1500 to 12000. I just cut the pads the size I need to fit my blocks or sticks and don't worry about running out. I think the sheets are about 12-14" square.

Also, I have been experimenting with Future this year. I've coated several cars, one with decals applied, and I do like the deep shine when it dries. It's hard to keep it from running while it sets up as you have to keep rotating any surfaces that can't lay flat. I've only toyed with polishing it to get some thick places out, so I don't know what happens if you try to polish it like a paint clearcoat. It doesn't seem to yellow....so far. I use a make-up brush to lay it on (tried using an aerosol fine mist pump spray but the stuff is pretty thick for that). You need a very, very dust free surface and drying box. I use a box that I spray inside with Krylon clearcoat first to suck any dust to the walls.

Edited March 11, 2012 by deja-view

[raisin27]

Virtually all my builds are done with rattle cans. I generally only use my airbrush when I have to custom mix a color or am doing something very intracate.

Here are a few................

[Bobdude]

All Tamiya products Primer,Color and Clear

[deja-view]

This turned out to be a great thread. Lots of exceptional work for sure!

[foxbat426]

i'm glad i asked!

WOW All masters here who posted - all amazing modeling jobs. Thanks everyone who took the time to post. I just wanted to see for myself what was possible with a can - I'm speechless!

[Eshaver]

Ever thing in picture #1

Ever thing in picture #2

Ever thing on picture #3

Yep, all spray can again...............

Ed Shaver

[Chillyb1]

I don't believe there is a necessary difference that pits airbrushes versus rattle cans. As already amply demonstrated it isn't a matter of which paint-delivery vector one uses, it is a matter of how well or poorly one wields his or her chosen method. The signal difference that leads me to use my airbrush much more frequently is how much paint can be so easily wasted shooting from a can. There are some control issues as well, especially when considering the meniscus effect around edges and panel lines that can spoil an otherwise splendid paint job. Perhaps even more importantly to me, I can mask a paint window surrounds, for example, with my airbrush when I would not even consider doing that with a spray can.

[Longbox55]

These were all done with spray cans, mostly Tamiya and Testors laquers.

[tim_g]

spray can

[JustBill]

All I use is cans.

[Dan Rosenello]

I don't have an airbrush , so everything I build is painted with cans.Not sure I know how to post pictures on this forum though...

[Jdurg]

Rust-Oleum Automotive Touch-Up Paint Medium Quasar Blue CC followed by a couple of wet coats of Rust-Oleum Automotive Touch-Up Clear. Then it was wet VERY lightly wet-sanded with 3000 grit paper, then a rubbing compound to remove any marks from the feather-light wet-sanding, then some 3M automotive polishing compound, and we get what you see here. Photo taken by my iPhone. I need to find my camera so I can take better pictures, but I think the overall quality comes out in this photo.

[jcbigpaw]

All of my auto models are shot with "rattle cans". I have two air brushes but only use them on military aviation models. I sand the body well before and after primer and always finish with a rub down with Meguires. Mostly I use rustoleum spray cans but I pick up whatever is available.

[Kaleb]

[Qwit Pushin]

Most of mine are 'rattle-canned'.

[otherunicorn]

Not all spray can cars are shiny.

[Jantrix]

I'd have to post up everything in my Photobucket. Check the link below. If it is a flat color, it's Krylon. If its gloss, its Duplicolor.

[deja-view]

Just anohter example of high and deep the shine can get with rattle can paints. I have to remind all, though...this is 1/12 scale and I was able to lay a lot of paint and clear on before polishing it down.

Hosted on Fotki

[zenrat]

I can ruin a paint job equally well using either mode of paint delivery...

This is one I did to use up all my leftover rattle can dregs.

Regarding Future (called One-Go down here), I have found that the shine fades over time with some builds developing a patchy appearance. No yellowing though.

[Monty]

I've been a rattle can hater for decades, but that doesn't mean other people can't have success with them. Here's a mid-70s Vette that board member jcvt went old school on. This was painted using Testors enamel straight from the can. No polishing, no clearcoat, just well-applied paint.

[High octane]

This was done in the early 70's with AMT lacquers from the rattle cans.