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Posted (edited)

I've just finished this modification of an FM '40 Ford pickup (bought cheaply at a toy show because it was missing a few parts and was extremely dusty).

I changed the dog-leg doors for discreet hinges, lowered the suspension, swapped in a super-detailed smallblock Chevy engine (wiring, plumbing, tri-carb manifold, fuel lines, linkages mesh filters, PE wing nuts on Cal-Custom valve covers), fabricated a custom interior, lathe-turned a spare tire cover in ABS plastic, swapped in a late-model ford rear axle with aluminum individual-leaf handmade rear transverse spring/shackles etc.,and added a custom tubing dual exhaust (using both polished aluminum as well as polished solder .

I also made an opening cowl vent (including mesh), and finished the bed with veneer and aluminum strips. Headlights are simulated lucas flamethrowers in chrome bezels and the tail-lights are handmade tear-drops. Wheels are chromies on wide whites with smooth dog-dish caps. The radiator top-tank is fabricated in polished brass.

Paint is custom mixed purple basecoat/clearcoat over a pearl base, the lettering on the spare cover is a combination of hand lettering and modified 'model railroad Letraset', and the hood center trim, windshield splitter, as well as the simulated mylar fender-welting are all done in fine plated wire..

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Edited by traditional
Posted

Nice improvements! I really like the opened cowl with screen idea and the doors open much better. Great job on paint and the lowered stance is excellent. I'm a fan of the original flathead but, the SBC is much more common in the hot rod world. Nice job overall, I love it! :wub:

Posted (edited)

I forgot to ask what type of clear you used, Clifford. Sanded and polished too?

Hi Jim,

I actually use two-part real automotive clearcoat (RM DC98) from BASF, sprayed with a 'touch up gun', only because I'm accustomed to using it with my other hobby of restoring our old cars with my brother.

It's expensive but it goes a long way and unless there is a minor flaw in the finish that will require rubbing out, it goes on very glossy and stays that way. Since it's a two-part paint (requires a catalyst hardener), it sets up reasonably quickly and can be handled or masked in a day without any problems. I've had no problems with it on either metal or plastic.

There are some serious dangers, however, with two-part paints in that they give off iso-cyanate fumes when spraying and must be used with the right safety equipment.....correct respirator mask and good positive ventilation. Fortunately, I have that equipment and I always use it.....I want to be enjoying this hobby for a long time.

Edited by traditional
Posted

That is beautiful, I just got one of those stock 40s myself, you are an artist, you took a so so truck and made it awesome.

Posted

Man Clifford, I'm glad you post here, you do some fantastic metal-work!!! I don't think I could do that in plastic!! LOL!!! ;)

Posted

This is fantastic! It doesn't look like Diecast anymore, you do always great job. The paint and finish is very nice on this one. B)

Posted

Great job Cliff, and nice job on the hinges (quite often I just cut them off and glue the door shut!) B) Looks so good I got to wear shades!

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