Another Super 7

[Harry P.]

It's too bad you're such a talentless hack...

[Mooneyzs]

Mark... Wow I am at a loss for words. All I can say is that this is some incredible building you are doing and it looks killer

[Tony T]

Wow!!

[Scale-Master]

It's too bad you're such a talentless hack...

I think you have me confused with another one of my friends...

[NormL]

Inspirational! I want to go back to my project now. Such cool work, I like that you are making it your own and not a specific vehicle. "7's" vary so much in real life

[Scale-Master]

Upper control arms are roughed out and I’m working on the spindles now. I also finished the front bushing assemblies for the lower arms.

[Scale-Master]

The spindles are fleshed out and close to being done, the left is on the left, the right is on the right…

I machined the “bearings” for the rotors, ironically exactly one year to the day of when I made the rotors. And I’m prepping the calipers which are the same basic units as the main rear calipers.

Inboard side of the left spindle assembly… The screws are just to tack it together as I build measure and adjust; hex head hardware will be fabricated and used on the final assemblies.

And mounted to the control arms…

[MonoPed]

Nice, as always!

Why are the upper "ball joints" set back from the lowers?

[Mooneyzs]

Mark.... I am at a loss for words on this. Beautiful work!! That front end is killer

[Scale-Master]

Nice, as always!

Why are the upper "ball joints" set back from the lowers?

It's called caster...

Think of the forks on a bike and the way the handle bars are in relation to the front axle. It makes the vehicle want to track straight and come out of turns.

Ever spun the handlebars 180 degrees as kid and then rode the bike?

Zero caster (vertically aligned) could be diabolical at anything over parking lot speed.

[cobraman]

Nothing short of fantastic !!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Ray.

For the first time it is up on all four wheels & tires. After only one year and 9 days of work… (but there are scores of other parts not shown here).

[Ace-Garageguy]

Wow. A real Super 7, just very small.

[Mooneyzs]

That rolling chassis looks killer. I am sure you feel like you have hit a bit milestone. I know I did when I got my funny car to the rolling chassis point. Nice work Mark. Keep up the great work.

[John Teresi]

Yes, she looks great on wheels .

[blunc]

I would like to suggest that this is not really a Super 7...

it's an AWESOME 7!!!

[Foxer]

YES to up on wheels!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Guys!

The (working) steering rack assembly is done, the last pieces being the tie rod parts. The tie rod ends are adjustable so it can be aligned once it is finally assembled.

The tie rod ends are just pinned into the spindles; the final assembly will have proper fittings there. (Those are red bread ties holding the A-arms together…)

[Crazy Ed]

Thanks Guys!

The (working) steering rack assembly is done, the last pieces being the tie rod parts. The tie rod ends are adjustable so it can be aligned once it is finally assembled.

Ahggggggggghhhhhh, I didn't get the Duct Tape wrapped 'round my head in time and it jus' 'Sploded …………… Mark this just get's better and BETTER!

[sbk]

Yeah! Great work as always, my friend!

[beeRS]

This is a spectacular build! I bet many builders of a 1:1 would not have put in this much effort. Keep up the amazing work.

[Scale-Master]

Thanks guys, yeah, builders of real ones don't have to make 100% of the parts...

After I had the wheels on the chassis I learned I needed more travel in the shocks to attain the proper ride height, which meant I needed to make longer springs. I used piano wire instead of soft beading wire this time. The beading wire is easy to work with, but has no memory and is too weak for this application. I went through about 12 feet of piano wire before I figured out how to get the windings even and the right diameter to fit over the shock. It snaps on both ends of the shock now and ties them together.

Then I went on to making the front shocks. This time I dealt with the spring before making the shock, it’s much easier to size the shock body to fit the spring than the other way around.

[Tony T]

Awesome work on this!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Tony!

Time to make the nose… I started by building the areas that will mount the nose to the frame and hood out of sheet styrene and brass. Much of this part will be cut away and discarded later.

It is reinforced in part of the area that will be removed to make cutting it out easier. Final shaping of where the nose meets the hood will be done after the nose is built.

The main/front section is growing towards the mounting points; right now it is just sheet styrene and CA.

[Chas SCR]

This is just getting better and better and also helps me on a lot of areas, Thanks for sharing a great build step by step.