What Irked You Today?

[charlie8575]

People in management positions who have poor management skills, and look for other people to blame when things don't go the way they'd WISH they would.

Leaders should lead, and big boys should take their own whippings.

Couldn't have said it better.

Charlie 

[aurfalien]

Computers.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It was actually yesterday, but this happened:

It looks to me like 'metal-fatigue', which often manifests itself as a straight-line crack. I've seen it on full-frame vehicles, but not often.

The most common cause is where a frame has been straightened after a collision. When a bend is pulled out without using correct procedures, the area 'work-hardens', and constant slight flexing from driving eventually leads to a crack.

Another common cause (though this isn't at all common) is very stiff springs and/or shocks that are bottoming on their travel.

WARNING: BEFORE DOING ANY WELDING, BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED (TO PROTECT THE COMPUTER) AND THAT THE AIR-BAG IS DISCONNECTED.

YES, IT CAN BE REPAIRED. Best thing to do is take the bed off to get good access to the frame rail, but a really competent body shop should be able to figure out a way to do it with the bed on, if cost is a real issue. The truck needs to be put on a frame machine and pulled / jacked back straight. WHILE IT'S ON THE FRAME MACHINE, HELD IN CORRECT POSITION, the area immediately adjacent to the crack needs to be ground off, free of any dirt or rust. The crack needs to be 'v-eed' out, and a clean, solid weld with good penetration run down it.

Then, the weld gets ground flat.

Finally, an area extending about 3" fore and aft of the crack needs to be cleaned off, and a plate of about 1/8" thickness welded over the area, wrapping at least under the lower part of the rail.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO WELD A BIG OLD NASTY 1/4 INCH PLATE OVER IT. THAT MAKES THE REPAIRED AREA MUCH STIFFER THAN THE REST OF THE FRAME, AND IT WILL TEND TO CRACK AGAIN AT THE WELDS.

A competent, correct repair should look like it's almost part of the original design, with no jagged edges or bubble-gum welds.

Edited January 23, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[Fabrux]

Thanks, Bill!

[blunc]

I think the key words in Bill's response are "really competent body shop".

[Ace-Garageguy]

Testors totally and completely useless website.

[Harry P.]

Testors totally and completely useless website.

That comment made me curious so I went there. I don't see any problem, all the navigation seems to work just fine. Maybe a case of your browser being out of date or in some way not able to handle the site?

[Ace-Garageguy]

That comment made me curious so I went there. I don't see any problem, all the navigation seems to work just fine. Maybe a case of your browser being out of date or in some way not able to handle the site?

It's not a functionality issue. My machine and browser are close to state-of-the-art.

It's a content issue. For instance, there is no real technical data, like recommended procedures, for any of Testors products, far as I can tell. 

I was trying to find some info for a board member here, and went looking for info on their product 282357, also known as 4038, Easy Snap and Spray Airbrush.

The ONLY data (and utterly useless to a modeler trying to USE the thing) is a copy of the government-required Material Safety Data sheets.

Same thing for trying to find actual recommended procedures for their 2-coat lacquers, their basecoat-clear product range, etc.

In the real world, I'm used to dealing with paint manufacturers who post what's called TDSs...technical data sheets...that have complete information on how you actually USE a product, as well as the MSDs. Mixing ratios, cure times, etc. Testors, far as I can tell, doesn't provide that kind of big-boy information.

Their site appears to be a catalog, not much more.

Of course, it may be that I'm just too stupid to navigate the site and find what I'm after. Always a possibility.

 

[Harry P.]

http://www.testors.com/pages/find-a-product/?seltab=msds

[Ace-Garageguy]

http://www.testors.com/pages/find-a-product/?seltab=msds

Useless for technical data. I know how to look something up. Did you actually read what I said above? Yes, there's links to all their products, including the silly "airbrush". There's NO TECHNICAL DATA other than MSDs.

And the MSD/TDS link on the page you posted doesn't even work...other than a redirect to get an APP for a smartphone for data that's not there.

Useless.

THIS is the useless page for the useless "airbrush". NO DATA BUT MSDs.  http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/airbrush/external-mix/#tab-1

Useless.

Edited January 23, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[mike 51]

Good grief!  

[Ace-Garageguy]

Good grief!  

Well, maybe that's a worthwhile comment.

I got into this by trying to help a fellow modeler, a newer guy on the forum.

The fact is, modelers ask on THIS forum CONSTANTLY how to use various Testors products. Why? Because Testors doesn't seem to feel the need to supply any in-depth information as to HOW to use their crapp.

If YOU ever feel the need to go to a source, like the manufacturer of a particular product, for factual information rather than endlessly regurgitated and mostly wrong opinions, you might feel some frustration when it's just not available.

Anybody want to point me to a Testors page that I missed, that includes instructions, recommended practices, OTHER THAN THE FAQs etc., PLEASE DO SO and I'll humbly apologize for my dumbity.

EDIT: THIS is the original question thread that got me looking for online info about this particular Testors product. I'll send ANYONE $10 who can find an answer as to how you use the thing on any Testors web page.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/110171-testors-ez-clip-airbrush/

Edited January 24, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[fog cutter]

sodium. too much sodium.

[metalhead]

Note- I have no idea who Metal head is or what he really said... I've been trying to post here and it won't allow me out of this form!

Maybe I'm missing something? Why can't you exit out of the forum because of me? 

[metalhead]

Maybe it's me or maybe it's windows 10, but, every time I quote someone and reply, it always puts what I write in the quote. So, it looks like I wrote what the other guy said. Doesn't really irk me, just weird.

[Rob Hall]

The quoting can be flaky sometimes I've found.

[Tom Geiger]

Maybe I'm missing something? Why can't you exit out of the forum because of me? 

Somehow the forum keeps messing up.  This time it had three different quotes listed, as if I was replying to them. I backed them out.  Let's see how this one appears.

Seems to have worked itself out!

Edited January 24, 2016 by Tom Geiger
added last sentence

[XJ6]

Being irked another night in the Hospital seems they need more test and more test and More ......

[iamsuperdan]

What irked me? 

 

I'm still annoyed by angry about last night's television. Been waiting for years now for the return of The X-Files. Been my fav show since it debuted, been pining for it ever since it left the air. 

So we set the DVR last night, ready to sit down and watch after the kiddies were in bed.

And what ended up recording? The first 30 minutes was a break down post-game summary of some frakking NFL football game. I'm in Canada, watching a Canadian channel, and I have to sit through 30 minutes of bozos talking about two teams giving their all, and filling 30 minutes with sports cliches.  Didn't even bother watching the last 30 minutes. Now I have to wait until Friday, when the X-Files premier is being run on a different channel. 

Screw Fox Sports, and screw football. I want my X-Files.

 

[High octane]

What irked me? 

 

I'm still annoyed by angry about last night's television. Been waiting for years now for the return of The X-Files. Been my fav show since it debuted, been pining for it ever since it left the air. 

So we set the DVR last night, ready to sit down and watch after the kiddies were in bed.

And what ended up recording? The first 30 minutes was a break down post-game summary of some frakking NFL football game. I'm in Canada, watching a Canadian channel, and I have to sit through 30 minutes of bozos talking about two teams giving their all, and filling 30 minutes with sports cliches.  Didn't even bother watching the last 30 minutes. Now I have to wait until Friday, when the X-Files premier is being run on a different channel. 

Screw Fox Sports, and screw football. I want my X-Files.

 

I'm with you Dan as I have VERY little use for sports commentators and announcers as they get on a tangent of talking 'bout something irrelevant to the game I'm watching, and they want to recap the game I just spent three hours watching. sometimes I watch the game and just "mute" the sound altogether.  

[blunc]

I'm not really an X-FIles fan but I was annoyed about the post game overlap also since my wife is trying to get me hooked on xflies (don't think that'll work).

Fox could have just taken the post game blather off to their website rather than annoy viewers who set their recorders for the time slot listed.

[Rob Hall]

Whiners.   I watched the football game, the post show, then the X-Files.  No problem.   DVRs can't adjust for delayed starting times, best to just watch it live...or set the record times to start an hour early and end an hour later, to have a buffer.  

Edited January 25, 2016 by Rob Hall

[redneckrigger]

It looks to me like 'metal-fatigue', which often manifests itself as a straight-line crack. I've seen it on full-frame vehicles, but not often.

The most common cause is where a frame has been straightened after a collision. When a bend is pulled out without using correct procedures, the area 'work-hardens', and constant slight flexing from driving eventually leads to a crack.

Another common cause (though this isn't at all common) is very stiff springs and/or shocks that are bottoming on their travel.

WARNING: BEFORE DOING ANY WELDING, BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED (TO PROTECT THE COMPUTER) AND THAT THE AIR-BAG IS DISCONNECTED.

YES, IT CAN BE REPAIRED. Best thing to do is take the bed off to get good access to the frame rail, but a really competent body shop should be able to figure out a way to do it with the bed on, if cost is a real issue. The truck needs to be put on a frame machine and pulled / jacked back straight. WHILE IT'S ON THE FRAME MACHINE, HELD IN CORRECT POSITION, the area immediately adjacent to the crack needs to be ground off, free of any dirt or rust. The crack needs to be 'v-eed' out, and a clean, solid weld with good penetration run down it.

Then, the weld gets ground flat.

Finally, an area extending about 3" fore and aft of the crack needs to be cleaned off, and a plate of about 1/8" thickness welded over the area, wrapping at least under the lower part of the rail.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO WELD A BIG OLD NASTY 1/4 INCH PLATE OVER IT. THAT MAKES THE REPAIRED AREA MUCH STIFFER THAN THE REST OF THE FRAME, AND IT WILL TEND TO CRACK AGAIN AT THE WELDS.

A competent, correct repair should look like it's almost part of the original design, with no jagged edges or bubble-gum welds.

x2.........................WELL described repair! Have done that very same thing more than once, with total success.

[iamsuperdan]

Whiners.   I watched the football game, the post show, then the X-Files.  No problem.   DVRs can't adjust for delayed starting times, best to just watch it live...or set the record times to start an hour early and end an hour later, to have a buffer.  

I thought I did! I knew about the game, but had no idea there would be half an hour of post-game recap.

And until the kiddies are in bed at 9, I'm not watching tv. Would rather be occupied with them. Had a mean game of Star Wars Trivial Pursuit on the go.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

x2.........................WELL described repair! Have done that very same thing more than once, with total success.

Thank you for chiming in. It's good to hear from someone else who's done it, and understands the procedure.