Black Window Trim - Black Chrome Bare Metal Foil?

[BobUnk]

Looking for input on painting the black window trim. have heard of numerous methods, just wondering what everyone feels is best way. Specifially I'm working on a pair of late model Revell Camaro's.

Thanks for the input.

Bob Unkefer

[The Creative Explorer]

I either just paint it freehand or I use Tamiya masking tape and spray it black.

[Gregg]

Those huge magic markers work good too, but you have to play around to see which one has the darkest black, I use the chisel point one from Sharpie Professional

But, I like Steef's way, which I do when I want a perfect job

I use the Tamiya masking tape, take time with it, and tape rest of body up, and use Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black in super light coats

Patience is the key

I think window trims are what makes a model stand out

Look at any good diecast (Franklin Mint, CMC, GMP), and you will see perfect window trim, which to me is what catches the eye first..

Sloppy prep work on window trim shows up big time when you paint it, so take time to sand, prime, and resand all the window trim areas

[GeeBee]

I've tried a few different methods, and the one i'm using at the moment with good sucess is to use Revell silk matt black, I've tried Tamiya and i find the revell better, if not easier to clean up.

I usually put a few drops of the paint into a foil dish, add a drop of thinners, and then using a flat head brush, load up the paint and paint as near to the line as you can, don't worry if you go over the edge.

Then get yourself a bamboo kebab stick, usually sold in supermarkets for barbacue's ect, soak the end in thinners, and then wipe round the line of the window frame, the bamboo will soak up the excess paint, you may have to do it a few times, wiping off the paint as you go, but it does give you a neat edge.

If you've painted the body in enamel, you may want to use water based paint for this and use water and not the thinners on the bamboo stick.

Works for me anyway .....

[Zoom Zoom]

Gregg's method for masking carefully w/Tamiya tape (there is no finer masking tape) and spraying it is the best overall. Especially because you can shoot the black sloooooowly so that you don't flood the area with paint and cause any of it to bleed under the tape. If you do get a spot or two of bleedthrough of the acrylic black trim you can carefully remove it from that area w/a bit of Windex (if the body paint is enamel or lacquer), and the bamboo stick mentioned above would work as well especially if the paint is fresh.

If I'm too lazy to do the masking on a model that has prominent engraving for the window trim, I will outline the area to be painted w/my Pigma Micron .005" pigment liner pen (permanent archival black ink, basically a disposable rapidograph) and then fill in the black trim w/brush painted Testors Acryl flat black. I use a narrow watercolor brush with really long bristles and carefully brush the black paint on up to the black surround. The long bristles make it easy to make a continuous pass in one direction so that you're not dragging the brush back and forth over the area you just painted. The idea is to do each section once, and if you have to go back over a section let it dry first. This way you get minimal, if any brushstrokes. Testors Acryl covers better than any other acrylic flat black, it's much denser than Tamiya...Acryl brushes better, Tamiya sprays better. If you brush w/Tamiya you'll just have to go over it a second time after it has dried. I get away w/this method fairly often and I have shaky hands so if I can do it anyone can!

The Sharpie trick is best for blacking out the edges of glass (inside). The chisel point is best, it takes a set along the edge of the glass so you get pretty good control. You may have to overlap to get it fully black. You also can use a fine point Sharpie to outline headlight covers/taillight surrounds on a lot of modern cars that have prominent black trim or a black gasket around the headlight surrounds.

[Olle F]

I don't trust myself with brushes or Sharpies on a freshly painted model, so the few times I have done this (I usually don't build modern cars...) I have gone the fool-proof way and masked it with BMF and airbrushed Testors "Black Chrome Trim". This paint has a nice semi-gloss sheen that looks like the real thing. You could also brush paint it, but this paint needs to go on rather wet when you brush it, so there is a chance that you'll get some bleeding under the BMF. BMF is a very good masking material though, so this shouldn't be a problem if you just burnish the edges thoroughly.

[Abell82]

Does anyone just use BMF, Black chrome?

[Gregg]

I tried it once, and threw it away

Sorry, I love BMF, but anything but their chrome is a waste of time, and money

I wrote to them once, and never got a response

Go figure!

It's not that I don't have to use Lysol after #2, I do, my wife will attest to that, it's just that you would thunk that a response would be given, in this situation.

Oh well......

Hope this didn't throw too many of you off (Bob, I know, you are past that.....)

Taping and masking works best for me. (Yes, I build, I know, I know, go figure :-))

Airbrushing is probably even better, leave that to Mr. D for his input....

[cruz]

I like the Tamiya tape method the best but what I also do is after lining up my trimming with the tape I will brush some future over the whole surface, wait at least ten minutes and then just brush the trim with my choice of paint. This prevents any bleedthrough of the paint. I have always used this method and what I like about it is that the Future wax dries very quick, it is self leveling and works with any paint. I like to use Poly engine black paint, I like it because you don't see any brush marks after laying it down!!!

[crispy]

I too use the Tamiya tape method.

My GTO was taped off and single stroked one way with Testors Semi Gloss Black:

My Nissan was taped off completely(entire body) and sprayed with Tamiya Semi Gloss black:

I have had good luck both ways. Just need to figure out what works best for you, but, Tamiya tape is a must!

Chris

[Olle F]

Does anyone just use BMF, Black chrome?

I have tried it, and I threw it away just like Gregg did. It's difficult to work with, any little wrinkle or crack will show, and I can't really see that it does anything that can't be done easier and better with paint.

[LVZ2881]

I tried the black BMF foil as well.....once!!

It doesnt lay down very well, or stick very well, and is just an overall PITA to work with...

[Jon Cole]

Everyone seems to like BMF, but hate their black BMF.

So... why not just steel wool some Chrome BMF, and spray it black?

I have done this with great results.

[weirich1]

I always use Testors Model Master Black Chrome Trim applied with a good pointed brush.

[novadose71]

I've only painted black trim on two models. Both times I just applied bare metal foil to the trim as usual, burnishing only where I intend to cut. Peel off the side to be painted, lightly burnish the cut edge with a blunted toothpick to seal it ............and paint. I airbrushed mine, which involves a lot more masking, but brushing would work just as well. That's all I know about that.

[circaboy]

For me,its either brushing or spraying,but I always make sure my tamiya tape is on. I personnaly think that every modeler should have some tamiya tape near 'em...it makes things so much easier if you take your time a bit...

[Foxer]

This popped up again so I'll put in a good word for black BMF. I used it for all the black trim on this Legacy almost 20 years ago and nothing has lifted or come unstuck. I didn't stick as well as chrome BMF but just needed more burnishing. It was also thicker. All in all, I'd use it again if needed.

Edited August 6, 2013 by Foxer

[cruz]

I have also used another method which works great for me. I scribe the lines nice and deep and just dump some acrylic paint onto the trim, capillary action will let the paint flow into the panel lines and then I just finish painting the rest of the trim. I love using Poly Scale acrylics for this, specifically the engine black color because it makes the part look rubbery.....

Hosted on Fotki

[Tom Kren]

Have a old sheet and its real crisp hard to shape cracks when I put down is it old or is it all like this? Should I go and get a new sheet???? ALSO ROLLS UP when I take it off the sheet

[cobraman]

Need a new sheet. I had some new stuff but also had trouble with it. It seemed thicker and harder to get good results.

[gluebomb]

I just stopped using it altogether. I find it is to thick, the "black" rubs off and it is a pain to use.

[Tom Geiger]

Same here! I've gone to either using Sharpies or masking off areas to spray black.

[Foxer]

Have a old sheet and its real crisp hard to shape cracks when I put down is it old or is it all like this? Should I go and get a new sheet???? ALSO ROLLS UP when I take it off the sheet

It is different from the chrome .. thicker and therefore doesn't mold like chrome, but I find it does work ok. I find chrome rolls up coming off the sheet too ... I try to "bend" the opposite way to keep it straight. It doesn't seem to stick as well as the chrome but I have a 20 year old Subaru with the black bmf and it's fine.

I would just try some and see if it's alright.

[Exotics_Builder]

AVOID AT ALL COSTS. I bought some early on and the black tended to flake off over time. After that, never went back to it.

[Harry P.]

The black BMF is junk. Doesn't stick. You're much better off using paint or black sharpies.