'27 T Highboy Roadster - Completed, Now Showing Under Glass

[Bernard Kron]

What's the steering wheel and dashboard combo? I'm not happy with my padded dashboard idea... Also where/how did you find/make the Limefires? Inquiring minds want to know!

[Bernard Kron]

I performed my usual fettling on the Revell ’32 Ford front suspension, a variation of the Tim Boyd Drop (Thanx Tim!) where you narrow the spring-mount tab to lift the front suspension closer to the crossmember. I also removed two spring leaves and notched the rails at the front crossmember to lower things some more. The rear suspension is essentially at the stock height, the lowering coming from the approx. 4 scale inch Z-job. Below are a couple of stance check photos with the tires I’m going to use (from Modelhaus, T-120 fronts and I-lost-the-label-on-the baggy-so I-don’t-know rears). There’s virtually none of the rake of the Stroupe car but not it’s not quite as low as the Lacy car.

The last photo compares the two bodies with the leading edge at the firewall flat to the ground. You can see the enormous difference in size of the two with respect to cowl height. I make the Deuce almost 8 scale inches taller in that dimension compared to the ’27 T. This will require a chopped grill shell to get a proper line from the cowl. I was planning on using a Moder Car Garage p/e grill anyway and they can be ordered with either 4” and 6” chopped shells, one of which should do the job. You’ll notice that both the Stroupe and Shimaya cars have chopped shells, but I think I want a bit more shell showing between the front rails so I’m guessing I’ll opt for the 4” chopped version.

Now that the basic stance is established it’s time to fill the space in front of the firewall….

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

[Duntov]

Neat project you have here ---- keep it going!!!!!

[tim boyd]

What's the steering wheel and dashboard combo? I'm not happy with my padded dashboard idea... Also where/how did you find/make the Limefires? Inquiring minds want to know!

These "Limefires" I believe were from the original (circa 1961) issue of the Monogram '30 Model A kit - the one with the stock, hot rod, and "race" versions of the five window coupe and cabrio. You can still find those on the auction site occasionally - I bought a gluebomb that still had extra unused parts.

I don't recall the steering wheel and IP source - I will try to find the article I wrote and let you know tomorrow....Tim.

[blunc]

I have the feeling I have seen that steering wheel 1:1... on maybe a Monza or a Skyhawk, maybe a Oldsmobile Chicken Supreme..I mean Cutlass Supreme. A GM performance product but not a Vette.

[Byron5150]

Should be a great project for sure!

[tim boyd]

These "Limefires" I believe were from the original (circa 1961) issue of the Monogram '30 Model A kit - the one with the stock, hot rod, and "race" versions of the five window coupe and cabrio. You can still find those on the auction site occasionally - I bought a gluebomb that still had extra unused parts.

I don't recall the steering wheel and IP source - I will try to find the article I wrote and let you know tomorrow....Tim.

I found my article text in my old Word document files.

It says the instrument panel came from the "parts box" (which means just that - I pulled it from my parts box where it was deposited many years ago - before I began keeping track of where all those the parts came from). Darn!

Better news on the steering wheel. The text says that it is the steering wheel from the "Bonneville" version of the AMT 3 in 1 Trophy Series '53 Studebaker kit - yes, the one they are due to reissue later this year with the original box art.

I'll let you all know if I can figure out the IP source at a later time. TIM

Edited July 18, 2014 by tim boyd

[tim boyd]

Ack! It's been nearly a week and no update on this build project....

Bernard, just wanted you to know that this modeler is anxiously awaiting your next update on this project....(smile).....TIM

[Bernard Kron]

Hi Tim,

I'm collecting parts to begin the next phase. I think I've decided to use the AMT '57 Thunderbird V8 because I like the valve covers better than the various Revell versions I've seen (and I have one to spare in my stash...). Bill "Ace-Garageguy" Engwer sent me an AMT '27 T Touring (Laurel & Hardy, Vintage Police Car, etc.) windshield which Dennis Lacy had theorized would fit. Dennis was right, it fits perfectly. I plan to cut it down but I also dropped a line to Chuck Meier about it (Chuck probably already new about it, I bet) in the hope that he includes a version of it in some sort of street rod transkit along with an interior. In addition, Dale Verts from this forum is sending me a pair of exhaust headers from the Revell Tweedy Pie that I'm hoping will fit the T-Bird mill without compromising the kit chrome.

Huge THANX!!!! to both Bill and Dale for helping me out.

I still need to order a cut down grill shell from MCG but I'm less concerned about that since there's quite a bit of other work to do before I get there. The windshield and headers were critical Go/No-Go items to attain the look I'm after. I hope to get back to construction over the weekend.

Thanks for the interest,
B.

Edited July 25, 2014 by Bernard Kron

[wayne swayze]

Yes! We are patiently waiting for an update.

[DynoMight]

Yes! We are patiently waiting for an update.

x2

[wayne swayze]

Bernard. Hope all is well with you. Really was looking forward to an update on the '27 highboy, as many people are. Cheers!

[squirrel886]

......love this!

[Bernard Kron]

An update at last! With no basic kit to draw on everything needs to be kit-bashed or scratch built so progress is slow with lots of “two steps forward and one step back”. Thanks for all the interest.

I have built the motor. I decided to go the “Ford in a Ford” route, something I virtually never do. I like the look of the Y-block Ford V8s with their well-defined valve covers, especially the look of a full-dress ’57 T-Bird 312 4-barrel. I was going to use the AMT version but didn’t care for the typically “soft” AMT molded-in detailing on the block, so, instead I made a fake-o Y-block using one of the countless small-block Fords I have left over from an equally countless number of Revell Deuce kits I’ve used. I added material to the block below the pan-line to create the Y-block’s characteristic shape, squared up the heads to fit the T-Bird valve covers and detailed the ignition and accessories based on research done on the internet. All the chrome bits except the headers are from the AMT ’57 T-Bird. But I just couldn’t go with the trademark “up-and-over” Y-block headers. Instead I used a set of “limefire” headers from the Revell Roth Tweedy Pie kit. They may have been for a small-block Chevy, but they have the correct paired center ports and they line up perfectly. Huge extra special THANX to Dale Verts for his generosity in supplying them!

Also receiving attention was the bodywork. I’ve added a rolled pan at the rear to complement the line defined by the chassis rails. It was built up from styrene strip and quarter-round . I also fabricated a firewall using the inset part of a Revell Deuce firewall.

Next up is bodywork and paint, wheel choice, exhaust system, steering gear, and… Hopefully I’ll have an update sooner than last time.

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

[wayne swayze]

Glad to see you're back at it Bernard! The pan is lovely, as is the Y block. I was concerned about you for a while....glad you're back!

[tim boyd]

An update at last! With no basic kit to draw on everything needs to be kit-bashed or scratch built so progress is slow with lots of “two steps forward and one step back”. Thanks for all the interest.

I have built the motor. I decided to go the “Ford in a Ford” route, something I virtually never do. I like the look of the Y-block Ford V8s with their well-defined valve covers, especially the look of a full-dress ’57 T-Bird 312 4-barrel. I was going to use the AMT version but didn’t care for the typically “soft” AMT molded-in detailing on the block, so, instead I made a fake-o Y-block using one of the countless small-block Fords I have left over from an equally countless number of Revell Deuce kits I’ve used. I added material to the block below the pan-line to create the Y-block’s characteristic shape, squared up the heads to fit the T-Bird valve covers and detailed the ignition and accessories based on research done on the internet. All the chrome bits except the headers are from the AMT ’57 T-Bird. But I just couldn’t go with the trademark “up-and-over” Y-block headers. Instead I used a set of “limefire” headers from the Revell Roth Tweedy Pie kit. They may have been for a small-block Chevy, but they have the correct paired center ports and they line up perfectly. Huge extra special THANX to Dale Verts for his generosity in supplying them!

Also receiving attention was the bodywork. I’ve added a rolled pan at the rear to complement the line defined by the chassis rails. It was built up from styrene strip and quarter-round . I also fabricated a firewall using the inset part of a Revell Deuce firewall.

Next up is bodywork and paint, wheel choice, exhaust system, steering gear, and… Hopefully I’ll have an update sooner than last time.

Thanx for lookin’,

B.

Finally indeed! Thanks for the update, Bernard.

Question for you...when I built the '27 T Roadster pickup using the Tim's Resin Rods body, I found that I had to narrow the Revell '32 Ford frame so that it would align properly under the '27 T body. From what I've read, this also needs to be done in 1/1 scale when using a '26/'27 T body on a '32 Ford frame.

If you covered this in a previous photo and I've subsequently forgotten it, apologies in advance...but did you end up narrowing your '32 Ford frame or did everything fit without this step?

As for the choice of a Y-Block Ford, RIGHT ON brother!!!!!

Best regards...Tim

Edited August 7, 2014 by tim boyd

[Bernard Kron]

... Question for you...when I built the '27T Roadster pickup using the Tim's Resin Rods body, I found that I had to narrow the Revell '32 Ford frame so that it would align properly under the '32 Ford frame. From what I've read, this also needs to be done in 1/1 scale when using a '26/'27 T body on a '32 Ford frame.

If you covered this in a previous photo and I've subsequently forgotten it, apologies in advance...but did you end up narrowing your '32 Ford frame or did everything fit without this step?...

Hi Tim. Thanks for the question. I neglected to give the details in my earlier post regarding the chassis. I cut out the floor panel from the Revell chassis but left the front cossmember in place to allow for the Deuce grill I'll be using. I then clamped the chassis rails to the body, locating the firewall at the upsweep in the reveal on the frame rail, and narrowed the floor panel to fit, gluing it back into place. The shape is slightly different but measured at the doorline the '27 is about .1" = 2.5 scale inches narrower. I then shortened the rear of the frame to bring the rear axle centerline back to the proper location, resulting in a .4" = 10 scale inches shorter wheelbase. The frame has been z'd the height of the frame rails or .25" = 6.25 scale inches, and narrowed the thickness of the frame rails to tuck up into the turtle deck. For this project I'm attempting to keep the frame as dimensionally similar to the Deuce as makes sense to minimize adapting issues with other parts. It's one reason I scratched together the fake-o Y-block rather than messing with the AMT piece. Throughout this project I'm reminded of what Dennis Lacy said about his 1:1 when he was working on it. He was constantly coming up against just how small the '27 is when compared to any later Roadster. In my case the Y-block will just barely make it with the exhaust headers just clearing the leading edge of the bodywork.

Edited August 6, 2014 by Bernard Kron

[MikeBoyle]

Love the fake-o Y-Block!

[DynoMight]

Alright Bernard! Great job. This'll be really cool!

[tim boyd]

Hi Tim. Thanks for the question. I neglected to give the details in my earlier post regarding the chassis. I cut out the floor panel from the Revell chassis but left the front cossmember in place to allow for the Deuce grill I'll be using. I then clamped the chassis rails to the body, locating the firewall at the upsweep in the reveal on the frame rail, and narrowed the floor panel to fit, gluing it back into place. The shape is slightly different but measured at the doorline the '27 is about .1" = 2.5 scale inches narrower. I then shortened the rear of the frame to bring the rear axle centerline back to the proper location, resulting in a .4" = 10 scale inches shorter wheelbase. The frame has been z'd the height of the frame rails or .25" = 6.25 scale inches, and narrowed the thickness of the frame rails to tuck up into the turtle deck. For this project I'm attempting to keep the frame as dimensionally similar to the Deuce as makes sense to minimize adapting issues with other parts. It's one reason I scratched together the fake-o Y-block rather than messing with the AMT piece. Throughout this project I'm reminded of what Dennis Lacy said about his 1:1 when he was working on it. He was constantly coming up against just how small the '27 is when compared to any later Roadster. In my case the Y-block will just barely make it with the exhaust headers just clearing the leading edge of the bodywork.

Thanks Bernard. All makes sense! TIM

[1 bad55 stan]

Very cool!

[Dennis Lacy]

To help illustrate how much narrower a '26/'27 roadster body is than a '32 frame, here is a photo from my project very early on. This might be the day that I received the body and set it on my original '32 frame to see what was what. The '32 frame rail top and bottom flanges are 2" wide and the body just fits on the edges of them. At minimum, the frame must be narrowed about 3" to make it work. If I'm remembering correctly, I narrowed my frame 3 1/2".

[curt raitz]

Hey Little Buddy...trying to sneak one by me, heh!

Steve told me you had a model on the forum...and it's looking good

I have not been on the forum much lately, having PC problems...so I switched to a Mac

Keep on building my friend

lookin' forward to following this build

c'ya

[Bernard Kron]

Hiya Curt! Nice to here from you!

[Bernard Kron]

Thanks to everyone for the continued interest.

While I’m waiting for my 4” chop p/e grille and shell to arrive from Model Car Garage I thought I would start on the paint. I’m going for an early 60’s show car vibe (the Barris influence in the project) so I thought I’d try my hand at a metalflake. I’ve experimented in this area before but this is the first time I’ve taken it all the way to an active project.

I often use Duplicolor paints and one characteristic they all share, regardless if they’re solids or metallics, is that they are fairly transparent and very sensitive to the color and texture of your undercoat. I actually have done candy-like paints jobs using Duplicolor metallics over a gold or silver base coat. Duplicolor makes a range of heavily flaked transparent paints for the system called Metal Specks. I used Metal Specks Silver as the base coat for my flake paint job.

The color coat is Duplicolor Medium Quasar Metallic. A bright medium blue. If you shoot it over a white base coat it is a very rich but brilliant medium blue, only a couple of shades darker than a French racing blue. But it’s so transparent that if you shoot it over a dark primer like a red oxide, or even a bright gold metallic, it will totally change color. Over red oxide it changes to a muddy dark olive blue green, and over gold it will show as a dark emerald blue-green metallic.

What I was looking for was a rich, deep medium blue with a visible flake and strong metallic highlights. After experimenting with various combinations I settled on red oxide primer, followed by a base metallic coat of Metal Specks silver. The Metal Specks paint is also quite transparent with no toner in it, just metal flakes in a clear base. So it shows a bit of the red oxide to it. Fortunately there is plenty of silver flake to it so it gave me the color I was going after.

Here are some photos taken in bright direct sunlight showing the progression of layers. The Metal Specks is quite coarse so I buried it in clear before moving on to the color coat. The base coat shot is the Metal Specks and three coats of Duplicolor Clear. Under artificial light the effect is a little more subdued.

Next up is detailing and painting the chassis which will be body color with a white undertray and body color rear axle.

Thanx for lookin’,
B.

Edited August 10, 2014 by Bernard Kron