Ognib Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 Excellent work, Tim. Both in concept & execution! Been studying your pics & see some great ideas for jigging multi piece body panels etc for welding, as well as chassis work. Thanks.
MitchP Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 Tim: Still picking myself up from the floor over the shocks... p.s. - never seen Dave's pro mod Camaro WIP... Anyone got a link or location?
Mooneyzs Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 Tim: Still picking myself up from the floor over the shocks... p.s. - never seen Dave's pro mod Camaro WIP... Anyone got a link or location? Mitch it is in the Big Boys Section. Here is the link. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78118&page=1
Nitrozilla Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Joe - "dragons'.....I'm going to take that as a compliment....you do know however that Godzilla was NOT a dragon. In this case, it is most certainly a compliment. And you're right about Godzilla too. Could you imagine if Godzilla had wings? That would make him second place though for devastation potential if he had to go up against Smaug. That was just my poorly chosen way of attempting to say if I put my builds up against yours, I might as well toss them in a wood chipper. Here, let me make it up to you: Edited March 16, 2015 by Nitrozilla
John Teresi Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 Codi........just soooooooo bitch`n.......I love it
MitchP Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 Mitch it is in the Big Boys Section. Here is the link. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78118&page=1 Oh no, Chris?! More eye candy from the cream of the crop here to drool over! Just got done glancing through the 1st page and I'm hooked already. Have a blessed evening! Mitch
Codi Posted March 16, 2015 Author Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Jeremy - Thanks again and tell your father I said "hello'! Jeff - I used a sherline slitting saw with a .020" blade. When it gets near the end I carefully grab it a pair of tweezers and ever so slowly advance the wheel until it comes off. Key word is "carefully". And yes, like you, I've had more than my share of parts lost on the floor that I've renamed "the Lost World". Jonathon Thanks as well. RAY, glad this helps in some way. If you have any further questions OR suggestions to make it better, pleaes let me know. Mitchell - Thought you'd get a kick out of Dave's builds. He lives on another planet from the rest of us as his work is so "alien" in it's execution. Thanks Chris for providing the link too! Joe - I sound just like him too when I have my paint mask on. Mr. Teresi - Greatly appreciated as always........now, again, how do I get to that boat build thread you've got going on. I had it and now I can't find it again. BTW - I FOUND your boat thread under "OTHER BUILDS" on the forum, for those of you that have not seen it or were aware of what mad genius John was displaying, go check it out. Totally cool. Edited March 16, 2015 by Codi
Ognib Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Thanks, a mill is on my list of things I need & I'll be a noob at it. Got any shots of your set-ups, in progress, etc? Do you do detailed drawings or out of your head, like I tend to do? I'm like a dry sponge for practical info on this subject. Edited March 16, 2015 by Ognib
gasser59 Posted March 16, 2015 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) I'm like a dry sponge for practical info on this subject. Me too Ray. I'd love to see pics of your set up Tim. Edited March 17, 2015 by gasser59
Art Laski Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 Tim, I think you said it when you stated you weren't building a model. I'm pretty sure it's a Swiss watch! The precision is unbelievable. And thanks for sharing your education with the rest of us... -Art
Codi Posted March 17, 2015 Author Posted March 17, 2015 Ray and Brad, I do use drawings. For the rear they show top and side profiles. Of course, it doesn't mean that they might night change as I get into the fabbing of the rails. I promise to post frequent progress pics as I build and you should be able to see all of the good, bad and the ugly. I'll be specific about what works and doesn't work. Art, thank you sir, and btw when are we gonig to see more of your "dirt" car? Cheers everyone. Tim
gasser59 Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 Thanks so much Tim. What I was asking for was a picture or two of your lathe and mill set-up in the midst of working. A lathe is on my 'just gotta have' list and I'd love to see your set-up.
Nitrozilla Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 Thanks so much Tim. What I was asking for was a picture or two of your lathe and mill set-up in the midst of working. A lathe is on my 'just gotta have' list and I'd love to see your set-up. I second that.
futurattraction Posted March 17, 2015 Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Tim, I'm as impressed with the detail and adjustability of your fixture as I am of your build. Absolutely gorgeous - all of it... That shock and rear end setup is out of this world. Edited March 17, 2015 by futurattraction
Codi Posted March 18, 2015 Author Posted March 18, 2015 Hi - Brad and Joe, I do drawings before milling any part. I know some guys might be able to do a piece without having something to go by, but I'm not one of them. I will be sure to share some future mill setup pics and other info that might be of help. As an fyi, I don't own a lathe at this time. When choosing between the 2, I chose the mill as my first purchase as it's more versatile and theres more to learn. I figure if I can learn my way around a mill reasonably well, then a lathe will be a much simpler learning curve. I know that might seem like a backwards approach to some, but it's just the "weird" way I think. Scott, thanks too for ALL your positive comments. It's greatly appreciated. Today, I got the 4 links done. The rear is now in position, height and side to side and back/forard. Now I can start the rails. The jig worked VERY well but todays work was fairly simple, straightforward stuff. It's true capabilities will be tested in the coming days. The tubing is s/steel and I tried to replicate the bungs on the ends of the rods by softening the edges of RB Motion A & N fittings. Kinda worked. Now, if I had a lathe, I might have..... A few pics.......
Mooneyzs Posted March 18, 2015 Posted March 18, 2015 Tim... that right there is just plain Gorgeous!!! man that is some mighty fine craftsmanship. This has me inspired to go get some bench time on my funny car. Beautiful work my friend. Hey by the way are you going to be going to the GSL this year by chance??
Randy D Posted March 18, 2015 Posted March 18, 2015 Hi Tim, Okay, those pics were worth waiting for Your stuff is so good that I drag non-modeling co-workers over to see it and they are impressed !!! Randy
10thumbs Posted March 18, 2015 Posted March 18, 2015 Wow! Tim, now things are starting to cook! The work looks fabulous. Michael
Codi Posted March 18, 2015 Author Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Thanks Chris. No I won't be going to the GSL...with kids, spring break and all the other things that "life" throws at me, I will have to miss it again. It's on the bucket list and it would be great to finally meet so many other modellers that I've met through this forum. Whew...thanks Randy. Glad you like it. What you won't see is that today I spend 2 hours tearing it all apart and re-doing the bars and geometry on the rear It was wrong. Now it's correct. I thank my friend Dave for catching that one. Oh well, better to get it right. If you go to my Fotki page you'll see the changes I made. And I must add that I'm so flattered that you think enough of the build to share it with others. Especially those not familiar with our hobby. Cheers Michael - Thanks dude. See my comment for Randy. Nothing is easy it seems. But, it WILL be correct. Please note too the difference in the diameters of the upper v. bottom bars. The tops are 1.1mm and the bottoms are 1.4mm. Dave pointed out that the bars on real cars are substantially bigger than most modellers make them (1.250" to 1.5" in diameter) So, I took what was the closest material (s/steel tube in this instance) to replicate the 1:1 cars. It's the little things. Mike (MagicPhotos) nice to see you following and I DO appreciate your comments as always. Take care. Cheers, Tim Edited March 18, 2015 by Codi
10thumbs Posted March 19, 2015 Posted March 19, 2015 Hi Tim, I didn't notice, but now I can see the difference. The length of the bars lets the thicker material look right. I use 1mm tube so far, I'll give a little thicker material a whirl next time. Question; How have you constructed the rod ends? The "sleeve" looks correct on the ends, is it just a larger size tube slipped on to the ends? I also like the double brackets, so far I'm happy to get a single piece in position! I like this setup a lot. Michael
MitchP Posted March 19, 2015 Posted March 19, 2015 Tim: Go back maybe 10-15 years in your building ( I can only hope! ) and imagine kit building, maybe at the level like I'm at: using a Revell '55 top sportsman chassis and related parts to chop on to create a more detailed pro-mod. That's where I'm at, with the help of am73grand, after 2 years of experience. I have to raise the bar this time by extending the firewall forward frame and strut supports to increase the wheelbase. What I'm attempting is like the first Godzilla suit acting films of the late '50s and mid '60s as compared to the new '2000s CGI productions you're putting out! It's truly a work of art that I don't believe I'll ever pursue due to the cost of equipment and ingenuity you express. Like so many others here, it's appreciated and enjoyable to witness you, Mooneyzs, Tim and Dave reach for the sky. I only wish I could make the travel to some of these shows or "contests" (how could one choose a 1st place given the variety of materials used and manhours invested???) Keep up the awesome work. One day Canton Ohio may have a modelers museum to recognize such talent! Mitch
Codi Posted March 19, 2015 Author Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Michael - I took RB Motion .054" A/N fittings and slipped them, one at a time, on a thin brass rod against my dremel wheels. First the "red" sanding wheel (dremel part EZ473SA held at an angle and then the polishing wheel, Dremel part # 512E. That took the edges off of them for the most part and shined them up afterwards. I like the contrast you see on the ends. Took 20 minutes to do 8 of them. Let the part spin against the wheels, don't hold them still or you'll immediately get a flat spot. MitchP - Very high praise indeed that I certainly appreciate. You're learning new things by trying and as I'm sure you've discovered, when you get it right, it's the most rewarding. I can see from Michael (10Thumbs) his big step forward in his scratchbuilding skiils in just 2 builds. When I get to a point wherein I'm not learning anything anymore (which I just cannot ever forsee) then it would be time for me to look for a new hobby/challenge. Again, sincerest thanks for your post. Today a few pics of the setup I've done to locate the rear shocks since the rear end is now in position. I wanted to "protect" my Penske shocks so I made matching rods that match them in length and you'll see them in position on the shock brackets I made. These key pieces are now fixed. Now it's time to bend and solder some brass tubing to get this thing moving forward. I did discover one aspect of my jig that I don't like. The magnets have a tendency to grab some of my tools if I get them too close to them. THAT can / could be a real problem. You'll see in on the taller brackets that I put some 1/2" aluminum block over the top of the magnet to "shield" my tools from their magnetic field. Cheers, Tim Edited April 3, 2015 by Codi
John Teresi Posted March 19, 2015 Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Codi........very nice buddy........you never disapoint..........love your up-dates Codi Edited March 19, 2015 by John Teresi
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