Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Second restoration, 1968 Shelby


landman

Recommended Posts

This will be the next one. It needs a repaint. The paint on it has crazed the plastic. I suppose this requires something more drastic than sanding like a complete strip job. The glass is fogged up, by the clear I imagine so I may need to make some new glass. Can anyone tell me what the maker of this was?

 

1772059331_Before1.jpg.5bcc1c306891935a127722d5b2eff532.jpg

 

Feb24153.jpg

Edited by landman
Changed thread title
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded).

This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc)

Couple other ideas that may improve your build:

1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on.

2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here.

I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded).

This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc)

Couple other ideas that may improve your build:

1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on.

2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here.

I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

Edited by landman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

God I hate this when it doesn't print what I said in response to a quote. Here goes, thanks Monty. There is no sentimental value. Just a plan to touch up or restore several Mustangs I built eons ago. I think I may have sprayed it with automotive paint without primer. We'll see how it turns out when stripped. It was my intention to use foil on the brightwork. I was even going to try my hand at paint over foil for the marker lights and the scripts. As for the bumber, I was planning to try out my alclad as soon as my new airbrush arrives. So I'm goig back to school, soto speak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Certain reissues of the old AMT 66 Mustang have some nice correct 67-68 Shelby ten spoke wheels, better than the 68 Shelby kit came with anyway. I know the reissue with the dark blue Mustang with orange and yellow stripes on the box has them. The broken one in your picture has curved spokes making it right for a 66 Shelby.

 

Edited by Travis T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beeg battle tonight. Started adding stuff to the floor pan and broke a spring. Broke the other one trying to fix it. Broke the exhaust trying to remove the rear end. I ended up removing everything, drilling & pinning the exhaust back together. I think I'll make a new main leaf and splice it in.

After a while I gave up and installed the fuel lines , spark plug wires and exhaust manifolds on the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool.... Dated kit but builds to a nice looking kit.

Do a lot of trial fitting. The interior tub does not sit in the frame flat. The issue can be sanded out pretty easily. I trimmed off the flat piece on the top of the floor (above the rear end) and sanded the interior corners to sit the tub into the floor pan more.  I believe I sanded the top side of the trans cross member also. Made a big difference 

This will help keep the body from sitting crooked and the floor hanging down to low below the rocker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...