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Posted (edited)

This will be the next one. It needs a repaint. The paint on it has crazed the plastic. I suppose this requires something more drastic than sanding like a complete strip job. The glass is fogged up, by the clear I imagine so I may need to make some new glass. Can anyone tell me what the maker of this was?

 

1772059331_Before1.jpg.5bcc1c306891935a127722d5b2eff532.jpg

 

Feb24153.jpg

Edited by landman
Changed thread title
Posted

I think the glass just needs a good washing and a polish job. It seems to be just old dust to me. wash with water and dish soap should take care of it , then polish.

Andy, would the headlight polishing kits work on something like model glass?

Posted

Novis polish works good on plastic glass so does a product that Bobs Paint sells. It is called SNAP his email is gdahl1@wi.rr.com . Bob is on this forum. Bob Dahl is his name, he sells some nice paint also.

Posted

You can also use the polishing cloths from a polishing kit.Depending on the depth of the scratches,try starting with the 6000 or 8000 grit cloths.You can always go coarser if the blemishes are deeper than first realized.

Posted

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded).

This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc)

Couple other ideas that may improve your build:

1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on.

2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here.

I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

Posted (edited)

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded).

This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc)

Couple other ideas that may improve your build:

1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on.

2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here.

I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

Edited by landman
Posted

God I hate this when it doesn't print what I said in response to a quote. Here goes, thanks Monty. There is no sentimental value. Just a plan to touch up or restore several Mustangs I built eons ago. I think I may have sprayed it with automotive paint without primer. We'll see how it turns out when stripped. It was my intention to use foil on the brightwork. I was even going to try my hand at paint over foil for the marker lights and the scripts. As for the bumber, I was planning to try out my alclad as soon as my new airbrush arrives. So I'm goig back to school, soto speak.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Body is in the brake fluid.

Picked up on Rex's suggestion above

Started repairing broken pieces, in this case the front suspension crossmember.

Are there Shelby 10 spokes available on the aftermarket?

Posted

And the "depaint" process continues. Is that brake fluid shot or is it reuseable?

Next step, the Purple stuff.

Looks like the cross pieces have to go for the inner fenders to fall in the right place.

Posted

You may want to "upgrade" under the hood with replacement inner fender and adding shock tower braces.post-13094-0-07406700-1424912551_thumb.j

Rex, are the shock tower braces available on the aftermarket?

Posted

And the "depaint" process continues. Is that brake fluid shot or is it reuseable?

You can reuse it, but you'll find it gets less and less able to strip paint. you can't use it for anything else, so you might as well try using it again.

Posted (edited)

 I'm curious what you meant by a "redo".

real car guys do it all the time. buying an old junker to rebuild. It can be cheaper than buying a new kit, especially if the builder has got frustrated and wants to get rid of it.

 

img_0517.jpg

Edited by kruleworld
Posted (edited)

Nice project. I swear it look identical to mine built as a kid with the color and all,other then i used the soch engine. 

Missing Link offers engine compartment. 

Edited by om617
Posted

Nice project. I swear it look identical to mine built as a kid with the color and all,other then i used the soch engine. 

Missing Link offers engine compartment

Thanks Tommy. Just ordered one. It'll be a lot simpler this way.

Posted (edited)

Certain reissues of the old AMT 66 Mustang have some nice correct 67-68 Shelby ten spoke wheels, better than the 68 Shelby kit came with anyway. I know the reissue with the dark blue Mustang with orange and yellow stripes on the box has them. The broken one in your picture has curved spokes making it right for a 66 Shelby.

 

Edited by Travis T
Posted

Beeg battle tonight. Started adding stuff to the floor pan and broke a spring. Broke the other one trying to fix it. Broke the exhaust trying to remove the rear end. I ended up removing everything, drilling & pinning the exhaust back together. I think I'll make a new main leaf and splice it in.

After a while I gave up and installed the fuel lines , spark plug wires and exhaust manifolds on the engine.

Posted

Cool.... Dated kit but builds to a nice looking kit.

Do a lot of trial fitting. The interior tub does not sit in the frame flat. The issue can be sanded out pretty easily. I trimmed off the flat piece on the top of the floor (above the rear end) and sanded the interior corners to sit the tub into the floor pan more.  I believe I sanded the top side of the trans cross member also. Made a big difference 

This will help keep the body from sitting crooked and the floor hanging down to low below the rocker.

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