bobss396

This was one class that permitted cow 🐄 catchers, to a point. Almost always angle iron and black pipe. I'm considering door bars and maybe 2 bars from the cage to the chassis rails.

Figure 8 drivers are another breed. We had one guy who looked like Barney Rubble. We pitted away from them, too much chaos when they would pit for repairs. A few guys became great modified drivers.

Back on the bench. The Chevy 6 fits well. I had to make more clearance on the floor. I made a mount for the rear bumper yesterday. And got a few things painted. I added 2 pieces of angle stock on the firewall as a stop. Also 2 mounting blocks in the trunk, these are pinned to the chassis so it goes back together the same way every time. I mounted the interior to the chassis to make assembly easier. Next will be final chassis prime, install the radiator frame and get some gauges going for the dash. I still may hinge the trunk lid.

VCG Resins has a Bronco upgrade kit, he has other Bronco items as well. A very god place to deal with. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/revell-ford-bronco-upgrade-kit

I am a total crack 'ho for anything tow truck/car carrier related. It would be cool if someone just issued a complete bed. So far any resin or 3D printed ones I have bought and or looked at are not up to my standards.

I have one I put away 20 years ago, converted it to a tow truck. I had issues like you did with getting the roof to look decent. I will call the engine very well detailed for something that comes out of a kit. I recently dug it up again, it will be back in work soon.

I sometimes leave material for little tabs when I am making up "glass". This gives a bond surface away from what will be visible. Some plastics bend better than others. I'm now using something from Hobby Lobby that is .015" thick and will hold a bend. I just unwrapped a new dress shirt and of course saved the pins (great for shifters) and the little clear plastic part that supports the collar.

I used to have lathe access at work until 2005, I had a buddy with a Hardinge at his shop I could also use. He would run me things on one of his big CNC lathes at times. He would take my CAD drawings/files and make a hard task easy. I am at the point where I NEED a small lathe soon.

I hoard up any wheel-backs that I come across, they come in handy for adapting odd wheels on a build. On the one-piece wheels, I saw off that "factory" nub or cut it way down.

I have used the clear pearl (TS-65) over white primer with success. The effect is the same in the end.

I started using paper clips and staples, which are not even close to being round items. Then onto floral wire which is strong enough and cheap. I use a lot of .093" Evergreen tubing that has an .048" hole thru it. I can use plastic or brass rod to make strong joints. In general my go-to metal items are 1/32" and 3/64" brass rod. I have a few lengths of .031" stainless steel pins that come in handy. Most used lengths are 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4".

Me and my brother had ZZ Top worthy beards for a while, everyone in the family HATED them including wives and girlfriends. What to do... grow it LONGER... When I got a real job in 1981 I cut it shorter by a lot. My brother needed to go to court about something, his was gone. Now I trim it with a #1 or #2 guide on a Wahl trimmer.

Anything that needs strength I will pin it in place. I drill holes while things are in the raw plastic state, pin one side with brass rod, aluminum tubing or stainless steel pins (1/32"). Then I use as little CA glue as possible. I rarely ever scrape paint off anything.

I like the scoop. I have (yet another stalled project..) and I grafted a scoop from a '66-ish T-Bird onto a Mercury hood. That comes with a chrome piece for the front of the scoop that sets it off.

Watch with photo-copying a decal sheet, with my printer the scale is a little off. Put a scale in with whatever you are copying so you can check it.