AmericanMuscleFan

Henry: Thanks for visiting and your positive comment on my build. Cheers, Francis Daniel: Thanks for your kind and encouraging words. I usually make a lot of scratch modifications on my kits because I'm often unhappy with some parts of a given model but it's my first time ever to attempt building everything from scratch. This will be a long process and I will still have to adjust things during the progress but I'm pretty proud of the build so far. It's very motivating to get your support and I really appreciate it. Stay tuned for more update! Cheers, Francis

Hello all, I just realize that I forgot to add the pics showing the hood on the body. I will try (later) to make the hinghes and some minor adjustment remain to be done. Cheers, Francis I did put the front fascia and the grille temporarily to check the fitment.

I don't recall the exact size but I have taken them from a wristwatch repair kit and several sizes are available. You can find these on auction sites like eBay. Note that a slice of larger insulator wire can also do the trick. Francis

Directly over the red wire is simply a larger piece of black wire insulator that the red wire was slipped into. The donuts that fill the valve cover holes are tiny wrist watch stem gaskets. Hope it help, Francis

Hello All, I got a request from a fellow member to see some pics of each side of the intake manifold so here they are. Cheers, Francis

Paul, keep in mind that the tubbing will become weaker after each cut so put just enough pressure on the vise jaws to secure the part. You could also slip a brass or aluminum rod inside the styrene tubbing if you have one in hand that fit perfectly. Keep me posted on your results! Cheers, Francis

Thanks for your visit Tim! Cheers, Francis

Hello Paul, Thanks for visiting and your kind comment! For your question, I placed the styrene tubing in the milling vise and I did use a 0.0625" square end mill. I made a couple of pass but didn't cut edge to edge keeping roughly 0.010" material. I then turn 180 degrees and did the same kind of cut. The third cut was done by turning the tubing by 90 degrees from the 2nd cut and finally another turn of 180 degrees from the 3rd cut. I end up with 4 grooves at 90 degrees from each other. I did finish by cutting from edge to edge with my xacto and got 4 parts. Hope it's clear enough but I agree that's a lot of operation to get these perfectly straight pieces. Cheers, Francis

Hello All, I'm just back home of a pleasant weekend of snowshoeing with good friends but it kept me far from the workbench so I will be pretty excited to make more progress on the truck next week. Today's update is about the hood construction. After dealing (and wasted) too much time on the resin hood I deceided to move forward and make one from scratch. The Modelhaus resin hood was pretty nice on it's own body shell but it didn't fit well on my construction. I tried to slice it in the center to make it fit the front fenders properly but even with that modification done the front portion was way too high and the space between the grille way way too big. I was pretty nervous to get myself into the construction of that part because the D100 hood is very distinctive with a lot of shapes so I found a strategy and followed my instinct. I think it finally turned out pretty well but I let you judge by yourself... Beginning of the hood construction. Flat section using 0.030’’ styrene sheet and round edges using a 0.500’’ styrene tube cut in quarter sections. I engraved the fake air vents using a 0.063’’ ball nose end mill and the 2 grooves with a 0.093’’ standard end mill Glued 2 styrene strips on the hood (will be sanded at an angle to merge the flat section) Front section of the hood done. Front hood renforcement made with 0.080’’ x 0.188’’ styrene strip and sanded to fit under the fold. The tiny holes emulate the passages for the nuts holding the DODGE letters like the real hood. Back hood reinforcement. Also for the hood hinges brackets. Fake hood vents ornaments made with 0.040’’ quarter round strip. Hood almost completed, still some sanding and some minor adjustments to be made. Hood almost completed, different angle. I'll take care of the DODGE letters later.

I do love those Maverick! They were widely present on the race tracks during the best era of the Pro Stock war between the american car makers. Your improvements on the frame and interior is very well done and this big 427 will look killer in that small engine bay! Nice fat tires in the back too!!! Keep up the good work!

Impeccable build quality! It is obvious that you have the touch with styrene and that you pay much attention to details. Superb !!!

Hello Joe, Thanks for your always kind comments! You made great improvements on the Maverick so far and I can't wait to see your next update. Cheers, Francis

Thanks for your visit Tyrone! Still a long way to go and a lot of updates until the end of this project. I wll try to go as far as possible before the «slow building season» (summer). Cheers, Francis

Hello Claude, I am undecided between 4.88 and 5.57 but I will be fixed after the dynamometric tests... LOL Thanks for your kind comments, Francis Thanks for you encouragements Andy, it's very appreciated! Cheers, Francis I'm don't exactly know where they come from but I do have them I my parts bin for years. I got them with other parts including a cheap 69 Coronet resin body that I purchased from another builder on an eBay auction. They are close in size than the ones comming with the AMT 70 ProStreet Coronet. Thanks for your good words Rooster! Cheers, Francis

Hello All, Today's update is for the rear end with 4-link brackets and coilover suspension set-up. I didn't get much comments on the mag wheels post (maybe you don't like them?) but I think they will look good on the final product and the holes pattern will enable to see the brake calipers. Joe: Thanks to be so loyal my friend, you can count on my help and humble advice if someday you want to jump in machining your own parts! Cheers, Francis Rear caliper bracket in the milling chuck Rear end housing in the milling chuck Dana 60 rear end cover in the milling chuck. Rear disk brake with threaded studs. Rear disk brake different view. Rear brake calipers brackets final. Custom made differential 4-link brackets (made with 0.010’’ brass and welded using a resistance soldering unit). Rear End components. Differential assembled with 4-link brackets, caliper bracket and disk brake/spindle combo. The brass axle spin freely inside the differential. Functional rear coil over shocks (eyelets are from RB Motion)