mr moto

Beautiful and amazing. Looks very real.

I hadn't heard of it either so I googled it. Looks like it would be a great subject for a kit but I've been in the hobby since the 50's and I've never seen or heard of such a kit. The problem, IMHO, is that kit subjects of that era just don't sell no matter how cool they are because no one alive and building models ever personally saw or experienced them.

Great build and I love the color! Is that the Monogram or AMT kit?

I make a shorter axle out of 1/16 brass rod.

Thanks guys for bringing me to my senses. Sounds like good advice and I realized I have a .7 nozzle set for my Grex that I don't normally use. Time to get it out!

Does anyone have experience and advice on spraying textured paints through an airbrush? It seems like asking for airbrush clogs to try it but I'd like to able to do it. The particular paint I have in mind is Duplicolor trunk paint which gives a fine-grained sandy type finish. I'd love to hear any real world experiences. Thanks!

My advice is to save your money. I bought some of their decals to do the 1963 Melrose Missile III Plymouth (1/25 scale) because they were the only place that offered them. The decals that arrived were VERY undersized for 1/25 - they looked more like 1/32 - even though it plainly said 1/25 on the sheet. I got the bright idea that since they also offered them in 1/18 maybe those would be about right for 1/25. Well, the 1/18 decals were still very visibly undersized for 1/25! Besides that the images on both sheets were both incomplete and inaccurate. For instance, on the real Melrose III (as it was in 1963, don't know about later restorations) the markings were somewhat different on each side. The Slot Car Fever version assumed that both sides were the same. I ended up making my own decals which took some time but wasn't really as hard as anticipated and it was a very satisfying project. Much of what you see in the pics below is missing from the SCF decals.

BTW, the chrome discs aren't just a figment of AMT's imagination (and AMT had a pretty good imagination) as some people think. They were available in chrome as well as spun aluminum. In fact, either version could be had from Honest Charlie's for just $2.95 each! The photos below are from the Jan. 1959 issue of Custom Cars magazine.

I once got a set from MCW. They may still be available. However, they had a huge amount of heavy flash and I ended up getting a set from one of the Johan hemi '64 Dodges and modifying them to fit the wedge.

I love it. It's original AND gorgeous AND expertly built - a very hard combination to find. Congrats!

Wow! I didn't realize that Tamiya was making kits 910 years ago!

What he said above about body style names in 1964 is exactly correct but the terminology has always been very changeable with the times and with the whims of the marketing department.

Despite sounding so sure of myself, that just might be a Revell! I looked at a Johan that's in my stash and there are some differences. It depends on what mods the OB might have made. In any case, it's a Plymouth and started life as a 2 door hardtop. That's my final WAG until I look at it again!

That's definitely a Johan 62 Fury 2 door hardtop with a B pillar made from scrap added on so it would look more like the Savoy that Richard Petty ran in Nascar.

That's a really cool how-to and it would probably be a fun project to try in scale. But it strikes me that nowadays - if you don't already have the parts on hand - it could be difficult to build the 1/25 version for $50!

BTW, sets of small punches are available quite cheaply at Hobby Lobby (and other places) in the leather-working section. Once you have some you won't know how you lived without them.

Thank you! Now I'm getting the picture of how approach painting with HOK products. The next step is the really hard one - picking a color!

Good looking paint, Guys! Steve, did you put the KBC directly over the primer/BIN or is there a metallic base coat also?

This one started out as a sedan delivery: Here's what it is right now but there's still more to be done:

I'm very interested in using HOK KBC paints that are available airbrush-ready from TCP Global and probably from others also (any suggestions?). https://tcpglobal.com/collections/hok-kandy-basecoat-kbc-ready-to-spray They appear to be a one step "kandy-look" finish that can be easily matched/retouched. Could be wrong about that! Anyway, HOK paints always have a particular look that no other paint has. But they're expensive and good info about using them on plastic models is hard to find so I'm hesitant to jump in. Who has tried them, what primer or other base did you use and what clear coat? BTW, I'm absolutely NOT interested in using any 2K products at any point in the process. Thanks in advance. Any personal experiences are welcome!

I've seen models roll off of display tables at contests. Settled that question for me.

Thanks to everyone for your kind words! I wish that when I built the Aqua-Vair I had had a hull more like that Glastron that I could use. That would be a really ideal "period" look for it.

The rules seem to indicate (it's underlined, no less) that all competition models MUST have a number. Many racing vehicles don't display a number - modern top fuel dragsters or LSR cars for example. I wonder what they'll do about that?

I guess the short answer to "why so few AMC kits?" would be "because most of them were tooled by Johan. As we know all too well, most of Johan's tooling (all?) has gone to Neverland.

Using Google to find out what I don't personally know, it looks like Tamiya makes a TS-35 Park Green spray lacquer and also an X-28 Park Green acrylic paint. Same color - big difference in the paint. Although I'd be surprised if Tamiya didn't make their line of paints cross-compatible enough to allow this combination, that could be the problem. Which Tamiya paints did you use?