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Greg Wann

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Everything posted by Greg Wann

  1. When I was young my older brothers had a motorcycle. It got wrecked and the bubble shield on the helmet got some good scratches. I was elected to help rub out the scratches with toothpaste. It took quite awhile but it did work.
  2. That is nice. I'm sure glad they offer these kits to introduce young kids to the model building hobby
  3. Thanks, I see you might have a Yamaha. Back when I was young I had a RD350, a two stroke with a six speed gearbox. That bike was really fast too. I was told that bike is worth about twenty grand today. I sold it to a ex GF for 500.00. It was a real red beauty. I don't miss either of them. LOL
  4. Yes, Dad was pretty creative. I grew up on a farm in Indiana between Mellott (FLAGTOWN USA) and Newtown on 341. These two towns were a thriving metropolis when I was young, a lot of businesses existed then. Both towns are pretty dead as far as any business exists now. The only thing that is left in Newtown is a feed mill and the OLD 55 whiskey distillery that has only been there for a short period of time. They are the only distillery in the world that makes whiskey using sweet corn. Newtown has a rich history though. Famous for corn husking events and the local farmers who had a band that practiced at the bandstand at the park that still exists...well, the bandstand is still there.. This is Richland Township. Home of the Richland Red Devils when there was a school there that I attended growing up. We had a F20 on the farm. You had to crank it to start it. It was a 1930's model year and I think it had a factory installed road gear. I'm pretty certain it was originally on steel wheels but I might be wrong.
  5. Here is something I kept my Dad made. It is a spark plug for a Titan 10-20 International Harvester tractor from around 1918. It is walnut wood that sort of gives the look of the plug firing.
  6. OK, so this seemingly simple mold has been a real PITA!! I had left the mold under pressure over night. When I pulled it out it was still a bit sticky so I put it in the box that I warm clay in. When I pulled it out it had became bloated. I poked it with my exacto knife to see if there was a air pocket, this has happened before. It did not effect the lump so I started all over again. Once again I pressure cast it to a successful cure. I mixed a small amount of silicone to fill it up thinking that it might fully de air since it was not a very thick pour. But it failed as well. Those dark spots are air bubbles that have formed next to the part. This is why vacuuming or de airing the silicone is important in my book. Under pressure these parts might form small warts on the parts and I don't want that to happen. Now I will mix a small amount of silicone and put enough in to just coat the surface of the mold and let it mostly cure then add more to fill later
  7. My first attempt was a flop! Back to the drawing board.
  8. I have a question that I am hoping someone can answer. It has to do with cleaning the air in a paint room. Ok, so a few years ago I worked at Purdue University. I worked out of the facilities management shops that all the trades work from. There was a big paint shop. On one end of this shop was a floor to ceiling metal area that would circulate an oily substance that was supposed to act as a flowing curtain that was to attract particles of dust out of the air. I am curious if this was something they might have invented and used on their own or was built by a equipment supplier. I do vaguely remember replacing the big circulating pump but dont recall much more about it. They did a good amount of wood finish and stains in there. I had made one in miniature for a paint booth I built some time back but it needs worked on.
  9. I am working on a project. These marker lights came out of my parts box of parts we had when I was a kid. One of the first models I built was a 68 or 69 Chevy pickup that was orange on the box art and had forestry service decals on it. It had some tools and a bedcover. This mold will make four sets. They will be made from a clear resin and I will add some HOK gold tint to the mix. I was informed by a Smooth-On rep that I might have a better chance of successfully casting clear if I pressurize the silicone to it's curing point. That means it will cure in a pressure pot and that means more work to learn a different way to hopefully get good parts made. clear resin is a real pita. I really dislike small parts that are cast on single sided molds or parts that are attached to a sprue. Flash around the part should be as thin as skin.
  10. How many tires? Are they solid or hollow? Fireball Model works might help with 3D printing. He has made some nice master tires for me. I can make tires using PolyteK PT flex 70. I just add some black dye.
  11. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-arh-001&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=arh&p=decal+pro+videos#id=1&vid=22d1bdc24c442c96513c4e644be0317a&action=click There are plenty of videos about this kit. Yes, there are a lot of steps and a learning curve to get to the actual decal made as there are a lot of steps and a learning curve to get a model built. Resin casting presents a huge learning curve too. This kit is only $90.00 bucks, that is really cheap for it's versatility. Don't underestimate it's usefulness around the house. You can make a temporary tattoo with it and apply a image on leather and cloth and even use this kit to make photo etch parts on brass. This company sells a fab in a box kit for electronic boards, that's how you can make PE parts, but both kits are mostly the same. Be sure you buy the laminator too.Yes, you can buy a used ALPS printer but the person mailing it to you really needs to know how to pack it properly. You might get something that does not work when you get it. I'm sure kids would really like the temporary tattoo thing as grownups seam to like permanent ones.
  12. https://decalprofx.com/ Buy a laser printer and one of these kits. You can apply the image to decal paper and turn it into a waterslide decal. A very versatile kit. Just don't buy a Brother brand of printer.
  13. WOW!! These models are real beauty's . Someone sent a pair of mirrors to me that look somewhat like the ones on the dark red car. The red car has some nice mirrors. If I had some specific Mopar mirrors I could make molds of them. Adding a decent sized stem to insert into a hole in the body would be nice to have on a master. Most antennas on sprues look pretty crappy especially when plated. There are acupuncture needles that look like they would work great for police and other such vehicles in scale. Some have a long spring at the base. They are very sharp. I did acupuncture for awhile so I borrowed a few. They are somewhere in my shop.
  14. I did make a mirrors mold, but I don't really like what is coming out of it. I need to remake the mold and add some mirrors to it. Mirrors are of course quite small and frail to make. Sometimes certain ones break just trying to get them out of the mold. This is why putting weight on a mold and putting it under pressure are important to get a good part out. It is not always easy to do. If I could do injection molding the process might be more accurate and consistent.
  15. https://www.sulky.com/item/sulky-kk2000-temporary-spray-adhesive-42-oz-120g You might try using this glue to adhere your flocking material of choice on your part instead of Elmers glue.
  16. I have a mold that makes a small block and big block hood but I don't know the year< I will have to find the mold.
  17. https://decalprofx.com/ This kit can do PE in light brass. With this kit you can create all kinds of decals. You can apply the image to clear decal paper and seal it and then use like a regular waterslide decal. A very versatile kit.
  18. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=927 I found my bottle of chroming powder. A few years ago there were several pages about this product in this forum.
  19. Thanks, I did remove the chrome from this part and intend to make a mold of it and some other parts from this kit too. The tire mold was kind of a bust and I want to do it again. I need more mini me's. I do have Marty helping out too. Also I have a group of guys that are coming to my shop and help whip it into shape so productivity can be increased to. I am a horrible organizer!
  20. I'm pretty sure I have a container that has had very little of the material used out of it. I will look when I get time. It was a hot item for a short time. I bought twenty of them . Made some good money off of them on Ebay and put a few in the Desert Scale contest raffle. I'm not sure if I have any unopened ones left though. The name of it reminds me of a sneeze. Also I don't think this is the same company that developed the CLEARVIEW 2000 product. You are to paint a part shiny black and rub, rub, rub the powder on. Some say it was graphite powder. I think there was a pair of rubber gloves and a cheap face mask in the box too. You might try super fine sanding a pencil lead to make a powder and see what that does no shiny black paint.
  21. http://www.fireballmodels.info/ Try Here for tires.
  22. https://www.instagram.com/metalrys_chroming/ I just had a guy that I do work for send me this link. The guy is in Poland. He will do a 8X11 rack for $25.00 but postage is not cheap. Greg
  23. We are looking forward to doing more projects with you, Dwayne. Your master making abilities are very, very good.
  24. The body does look really nice. When this mold is done and working like I want I will get a copy prepped for another mold. This way I plan to have two good molds operational. We want a CV in every display case.
  25. A new body mold is needed. Mike gave a new master a good going over. He added more vitamins and minerals and improved the taste too. Please give Mike a standing ovation for all he does for us, and another thank you to Dwayne too for creating this kit for the modeling community. I will be updating some molds for other parts too. I have another pair of hands in my shop to help out as well. Marty is helping when he has the time and lives closer to me than Mike does.
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