JohnU

Or require medical insurance, maternity leave, a pension, special work requirements, a safe place because of any kind of harassment.... get the picture?!

HA!!!????!!! Love it!

Has anyone tried using it to restore hazed plastic headlight lenses on actual cars?

Been following this and had an idea you might like to try. How about putting a small bowl of water in the microwave with the styrene and let it steam up. I’m not saying to put the plastic in the water but put them both on the platter together. Or, why not! It’s an experiment right? I’m guessing the steam may get things hotter and the plastic will soften more than with the microwaves alone. Since microwave radiation excites water molecules to do cooking, plastic doesn’t have much water in it to “cook” it per say. Although I have ruined a few Tupperware containers over cooking my leftovers!?

In the meantime, trucking companies still can’t find enough drivers!?

Try one of these. Guillotine paper cutter. If it’s sharp and ridged enough it could probably handle thin tin or brass. I’ve used it to cut strips of aluminum from soda cans.

I’m laughing at this one because my wife’s cupcake forum posted the same joke as it relates to the baking hobby!

WHAT!!! BLASPHEMY!!!!???

This is awesome! Love the 63 Fury! I’m inspired to try this myself with my kits as well! Please keep up the great work and info!

All righty then, I think I have the information I need now. This is the first time I’m using filler to fix some minor body sink holes. Usually I just block sand the plastic down and highlight the low areas with a pencil and repeat until it looks good to me. The current project I’m working on have some pretty deep ones that will require more attention. Thanks for the feedback!

So, I did a google site search and didn’t find a really definitive answer to this question. Most seem to use filler before and a few use it after priming and sanding when the need is visible. I guess I’m looking for an advantage over either for the best stable results. Thanks in advance!

Whoa, I’d be real careful about doing a kitchen chemistry experiment without being real sure there isn’t an unexpected dangerous reaction with some unknown constituents in these two products! Kinda like with bleach and ammonia! Just saying, be careful man!?

What about dykem remover? I’m a tool and die maker and we use it to remove dykem blueing, magic marker, and paint from steel all the time. I haven’t tried it since I’m not sure what the recipe of Acetone, Ethanol, N-Propyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol would do to plastic models. Although, I have cleaned plastic storage bins with it without any dire reactions. It tends to evaporate so fast it seems to not have enough time to do any damage. Just a thought since we’re throwing stuff out there!?

X2

How about trying to use Avery labels to print your masking pattern? You can find an assortment of different sizes at any office supply stores. Haven’t tried it myself but your question was intriguing and got me thinking. If you position and print your design on the label then trim and stick it to the model it might work. Although, the label being just paper and not technically a mask, not sure about any bleed through. I would try applying a clear coat over the label first before trimming and applying it to the model in that case. Again, this was just a thought experiment maybe worth a try. Good luck!

Don’t know what the problem is on my end but clicked the link and I got a naked Malibu Ken doll!??

Been following this topic and by no means do I have first hand experience but, considering any attempt to soften the plastic may soften the paint as well, I would think that the paint may get damaged while manipulating the plastic to straighten it out. If this was my project I think I would just strip it first then try any or all the great ideas for softening and straightening it then repaint! Just my two cents!?

I’m seeing ads for dating Ukraine women in my neighborhood. How do they know my ethnic background?!

I’m a tool and die maker as well. Built and repaired enough “tooling” in my time to understand the subtlety’s of the nomenclature. So, as far as where I come from molds and stamping dies are all “Tools” for making parts. I’m just trying to figure out what’s the point of his comment?

Reeealy!? I’ve been in the Tool and Die/plastic injection mold industry for the last forty years and everyone I know from design engineers to set up personal all call stamping die and injection mold assemblies “tools or tooling”! Wow! Guess we’re all “lay men” in the industry!?

Oops! Should have read the first answer to this post!?

Other than the box art, there really isn’t any difference between the European and US version right?

Thanks for the practical advice! Been researching for an answer to this problem and came across Walthers brand as a suggested solution somewhere else on this forum. You just confirmed it and you’re right, it seems some of the newer kits supplied decals are tougher to work with than they used to. I see Micro-Mark carries it and will have to give it a try. Thanks again!

Got a question about micro sol and micro set. Is there a shelf life for these? I’ve had some for a couple of years and have used them with good results. But recently I tried to get some decals to settle down while working on a revell black widow and neither did anything! In the past I’ve used both products and watched as the decals almost dissolve and melt down in place then dry perfect! This time, nothing! Do they lose their potency over time?

I thought this stuff was only for blocking mildew stains on drywall so I have a question about using BIN zinsser on plastic. This product must be kinda thick for airbrushing. Do you thin it? With what and what ratio? Thanks for all this helpful paint info! If this really works it’s gonna make my paint jobs a lot better for sure!