Stray Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 lol... crazy modeller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Carl: I've got a schedule to keep you know. . We got back home yesterday around 2 or so. Man I was scratching all night at the hotel after you posted that. lol . I managed to get the cut out in the hood completed and now have to clean it all up. Greg: You betcha!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Well the hard efforts of Saturday night at the hotel and this morning have paid off finally. I've got the cut out cleaned up and ended up having to shave some plastic off of the bottom of the hood scoop so that the chrome air intake horn would clear the scoop. That thing is tight on the clearance!!! The scoop is only about .032" thick now in the center and I started with .058" !!!! I have the holes drilled in the hood and in the edges of the scoop so I will be able to pin it in place to make things easier to install later. Still gotta prime it and paint but here it is so far: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Glad you got the hood cut out. Sorry Joe i was just passing on important info.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy D Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Hi Joe, Got that hood looking good !!! On the road at a hockey tournment, brings back memories What do you have, bantam, midget? Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 (edited) Thanks Carl! LOLOLOLOL!! Randy: Thank you as well. I actually primed the hood yesterday morning. The bottom side looked great but the exterior surface looked like I sprayed gray Rhino Liner on it. I stripped it all off yesterday, cleaned all the brake fluid residue up and I'm back where I started now in the pics above. Will try to re-prime this morning. As far as hockey goes he's a "squirt" and he's still in the "learn to skate" program but he's all heart and that may just be enough. We'll see where it takes him. This is almost monumental considering that I tried to prime this yesterday and the exterior of the hood turned out looking like somebody sprayed gray Rhino Liner on it. I have since stripped it all the way back down to the plastic and now have re primed. I ended up pinning the hood scoop so it will be a lot easier to install once everything is painted. Edited May 27, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I'm a sucker for a nice scoop. Looking good dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Thanks Greg! Well I ended up shooting some paint late last night on my hood and scoop. I've still got some work to do on the clean up and polishing of it as I've got some dust particles in the paint and one or two small bubbles to contend with but with a little finesse I think I'll be in the green. I'll just set this aside for the next couple of weeks and then start to work on smoothing it all out. Mean while I'll turn the attention back to the brake linkage as I think I have that one figured out now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Hood looks great Joe.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) Thanks Carl ! I'm really looking forward to polishing this one up and making it a mirror shine as it's my first true automotive paint job from primer to color to clear. This shade of red is exactly the shade I was hoping for! Edited May 29, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Joe, I have been watching this build, and I like the way you are going about it. I have built a Revell '56, and was not happy with it for one reason or another. I started on the version you are doing, and I can say that that tool is pretty well worn. The fit is atrocious, so I glued the doors in, and it's in the box somewhere in my basement,. A few years ago, a friend sold me a first edition '56 Ford PU from the '60's, and the fit is so much better. I want to jamb the doors, and build it using modern building techiques, such as what you are doing, but as a Pro-Touring sort of build instead of a drag racer. Chip Foose' truck comes to mind. So far, I can say that this is the best looking Revell '56 Ford PU builds I have seen so far. I can't wait to see more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) Ron: I couldn't agree with you more on the terrible overall fit of the "Street Demons" kit. So far I have used the frame and a lot of the suspension components, the hood and main body and the rear fender blisters out of that kit. As of right now I'm glad I got the original SD kit because of the decals which are in tip top shape for being as old as they are. I'm using most of my parts from the latest Revell F-100 boxing. You've probably seen it around but it's kit #85-4914 and the parts are somewhat cleaned up with of those nasty ejector pin marks (which look like appendages on the SD kit) mostly gone and a lot of the fit issues fixed. I now have two of these. If I don't use one of 'em I may have a spare for you should you want it. Thanks for the encouragement here because there are days that I'm just STUCK on how I'm going to get past the next obstacle and it does get a little frustrating and discouraging. I'm figuring it out slowly and as I go but it's coming together. My hang up will be if I screw up on the decals. In that event I'll be in the market for another SD F-100 kit. Hopefully I'll have this bad boy done in time for the show in Houston on August 1st and if not, there's the IPMS show in Austin on the 10th of October. Fingers crossed all the way............ Ok fellas. Now for an oversight on my part. I initially removed the hood emblem from the front of the hood. What I forgot about is that given the fact that I am going to stick with the body look on the box top with the red paint and the flames I neglected to look at the decal sheet which clearly has a cut out for the hood emblem!! I've got two more hoods if I need 'em so I got this bright idea to use one. I cut the area containing the hood emblem out of one of my two usable spares: and sanded the area down on the backside until I had my emblem back. a little closer... and then BMF'd it. Whew!!! I was wondering at first how I was going to get through that obstacle and am glad that problem is solved....... Now..............to the next challenge............ Edited May 29, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) I was working on the hood and firewall to stall myself long enough for a problem to resolve itself and I think it did. I was looking on my work bench at a broken 1/8" drill bit and was about to toss when I had another thought. I could use the smooth /arbor side of the drill bit for a master cylinder pivot point for the brake input linkage and rods. I cut the drill bit about 9/16" long, drilled a hole in the frame at just about the right point and pushed 'er through. It worked perfectly..... Something else also crossed my mind when I was doing some of the paint and body work pertaining to return springs. While I liked the idea of the wrist watch band retaining pin spring I was searching for a spring still yet smaller and more to scale. I do like a lot of the scratch work that goes on with home made wound springs but I just wanted something with a little more uniformity in the coils. I think I might have found what I'm looking for. My headlight burned out in my truck yesterday and wouldn't ya know there's a filament that looks like a spring in there? LOL. While a headlight bulb filament is NOT the right scale, a 3157 light bulb...................is! Today I broke a bulb on a spare bulb I had in my spare parts drawer of my box (all you automotive style mechanics out there know the drawer I'm talking about too--spare bolts, nuts , fuses, electrical stuff, and just about everything to put a car together and run with drawer) . Inside there were two filaments: One larger than the other and both more than perfect for what my use for them was. The next obstacle.............lengthening the driveshaft by about 1/4". Edited May 29, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Joe - I think if you bought some round styrene that was about the diameter of the original driveshaft and cut it to length, cut the u-joints off of the old driveshaft and transplanted them on the new styrene driveshaft, you'd be set. I've been thinking of doing this with future builds when the molding lines are so bad that they are a pain to get out. You could even wrap it in BMF or shoot it with Alclad prior to gluing the u-joints. Just and idea that popped into mind. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 That's about what I have in mind really. I actually have some brass rod that'll work as well. Either way, that driveshaft is way too short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar - D Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Joe I'm going to have to go get some light bubs for those springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Joe, I always replace my drive shafts with styrene rod or aluminum tubing. I used styrene on this Buick stocker. Looks better and much easier than cleaning up the kit part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Thanks fellas! I have some brass tubing I think I'll try. It'll be better than a short D/S that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Joe, man i really enjoy how you come up with creative detail ideas. i have learned so much from you on two builds. Keep it up buddy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Man I really appreciate the kind words there Carl. I learn more from you all than you'll ever know. Thanks pal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 What's all this real metal being used on a plastic model? Absolute malarkey. Cease this immediately! As is usual, bloody good work Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow12 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Coming along great! I also replace my driveshafts with aluminum. I use styrene u joints and pop them in the ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 when you replace your drive shafts with tubing/rod, remember to put the ends on correctly, the rivet counters will think you really got your ship together. the ends should mirror each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Greg: LOLOL!!! Thanks I'll be more careful next time! Fred: Great seeing you again dude!! Just got back from a hockey tournament this last weekend. My son's team didn't do well but he had a total blast!!! Thanks for the good word! Mike: Thanks for your input as well. I'll keep that one in mind. Being a mechanic / technician by trade I'll make sure of the U-joint phasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) Well folks. Here's what the driveshaft looked like before all half hangin' out of the xmsn. I managed to cut a piece of brass rod just the right length and save the u-joints and yoke from the original driveshaft, pin 'em , position/ phase 'em and glue 'em into place. . and then a real light coat of flat black with a drop of gloss clear in it shot on at around 30 psi to give it a smooth and metallic look......and we're in business. Edited June 2, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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