blunc

I think an appropriate name for this would be: "Hammerhead"

James, thank you for the compliments, I am no where near the "Great Model Master" that frequents this Forum and I am constantly picking up tricks from the real "Masters" here. Please remember to check the "Questions and Answers" and "Tips and Tricks" threads on this forum, most of the skills used to build the 34 coupe have been discussed there (even though I already knew a lot of them before finding this forum). I will be including links to my 1/32 scale threads after my explanation of the '34 coupe build, more info and pix in the threads. Other than changing the wheels to a style I find more appealing, this car was completed in the mid 1980's (yup, that Testors paint and Bare Metal Foil are over thirty years old). I cut the doors open (after assembling the body...body halves then coupe top glued together) using the "Scribe" method, which is to use the back side of an exacto blade tip (the side you don't cut with). Run the tip of the blade (newer blades make finer cuts but bind/break easier) along a door seam until you have worked your way all the way through the plastic. I use razor saws for long straight cuts after I have opened enough of a seam cut to get the saw blade into the cut. I have not seen anyone be successful with "hot wire / hot knife" tools, most here will say they just ruin what you're trying to build. Squared off corners are easiest to do, radiused (rounded) corners are the hardest and require extra care/patience and/or extra repair work later due to slips or bad cuts. Do not be afraid of having big seam gaps, evergreen 0.010 plastic strips are easy to add to the door frame or door and then sand to get the door fit you need. (I learned that tip on this site and have used it already to fix a gap problem on an old build) There are several threads of ways to hinge. I used small brass tube and really small piano string wire and mounted it a fashion that they can't be seen very well even when the door is open. And now, the thread links, enjoy:

here is a funny car engine I'm bashing with some Lindberg carbs that will go into a track style '25 T Lindberg body with a turtle-deck trunk.

yes, it really is 1/32 scale, here it is next to a 1/25 scale wheel/tire: (this photo was taken before I installed the 1/32 scale wire wheels) and a shot of the chassis: the chassis pan from the Nova was used to replace the rear portion of the Pyro chassis which had the rear end molded to the chassis) A close up of the engine compartment:

here is a Lindberg '34 Coupe with the engine from a monogram Nova kit.

There are a few 1/32 scale kits that have engines. Snap together funny car and Nascar kits usually have engines that can be enhanced and detailed Monogram, Testors and Airfix 1/32 scale glue together kits come with engines (not all kits) Some of the Pyro/Lindberg kits come with engines. Some Matchbox kits have engines. The older Aurora hot rod kits come with engines but they are all basically the same motor with different induction based on which model you have. early Revell 1/32 scale glue kits had engines in them too. Not sure about the Heller kits...

I have heard that the metallic elements in the paint can cause this to happen also (it happens quicker in Arizona). Bill is correct (of course), the only cure is a proper strip and repaint.

fixed

I think it's referred to as inductive braking, by shorting out the motor instead of feeding it a voltage, the magnetic field generated by the armature windings works against the magnets (magnetic fields) in the motor casing. I'm guessing the adjustable braking in those controllers is done with variable resistors in order to how much "shorting" is applied.

great to see more happening on this. I have a few 1/8 projects gestating on the "way back" burner, so I'm soaking up info on parts and design ideas.

it IS an interesting vehicle. BUT..., one of eight, that was made for a Saudi family would not seem to be a vehicle considered as a standard production run.

Asian web site downsizes U.S. Army M60A1 Main Battle Tank... http://www.hobbylinc.com/academy-u-s-army-m60a1-main-battle-tank-plastic-model-military-vehicle-kit-1:35-13009?utm_campaign=specials (I noticed the "Injector Stacks" they have listed look like a Corvette)

X2

I was able to change the failing water pump on my twenty year old car... for less than $100.

I second Bill's advice regarding Pontiac engines, even in full size Pontiac engines you wouldn't be able to be sure what the displacement was without looking at casting numbers or other manufacturing clues. here is one from the Monogram 69 GTO kit.

looks great for driving on the sidewalks and going mall shopping...really fast

well... I used to be "superior" but there was this styling SNAFU. (now the thread is back on track)

I've been looking for 67 galaxie kits in my price range also, I was thinking Galaxie GT might be a "phantom" body style that Ford decided would crowd the rest of their market so it never got produced.

Sectioned the body, laid the windshield back, shortened the back end, dropped it down over the wheels a bit, thinned the front and rear bumpers to align with the side trim, adjusted the background and shadows on the street. all work done in Paint Shop Pro (great program for anyone that doesn't want to shell out for Adobe Photoshop) the original photo is in the "What if ?" thread

if only the 67 galaxie kit would get released again...

nice, really like the asymmetrical paint scheme....very retro.

and this 67 Galaxie from that thread. (this was NOT done with photoshop or GIMP)

this thread reminds me of the "What if...?" thread of about four years ago.

Happy Annual Survival Anniversary Day

well, that's one way to discourage anyone from touching the plug wires.