ChrisBcritter

Thanks for the info! Great photos. I'm using that front axle on my '58 Ford. Ended up cutting the round part of the spindles way down and mating them to backing plates from the '60 Ranchero, which were attached to the Dodge drums with large flat retainers, then the drums were glued to the front mags with just enough clearance to still rotate. The spindles snap onto the kingpins so they steer fine; but there's just a bit of slop and I'm not risking too many test fits. Like you did, I also added the front shock mounts that IMC forgot.

I want to put an automatic transmission in my AMT '62 Catalina; it would have used the smaller GM Roto Hydramatic (aka "Slim Jim"). I think my only option for this would be the '63 Olds Starfire; but are there any aftermarket Rotos available? I'd think some builders would like them for the Moebius kit as well (along with the correct brake pedal, which is in the old Revell Stone-Woods-Cook Willys IIRC). Over to the experts...

I believe the folks at the Modelhaus based some of their kits on old promos (like their '57 Plymouth); would it be possible to check with Don and Carol to see how they did it?

Or if the dies don't turn up, hopefully some of the more popular/scarce kits can be scanned and reverse-engineered back to life. The Maverick would be a good candidate...

Update on that; Tom and I visited Des Plaines Hobbies this afternoon and I made a few notes. The (brass) tubing is made by Albion Alloys Ltd. and comes in a 3-pack in 305mm lengths; thinnest was 0.3mm OD/0.12mm ID. They also have a Slide Fit Pack with one each 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 and 1mm OD. Price was $6.80 per pack. Even if you don't make antennas, this tubing should be useful for something.

I built one of those Ramblers from an original kit in the late '70s; shortly thereafter Jo-Han (or what was left of it) reissued the darn thing (or what was left of it). It was one of my nicer builds at the time. (I think, like their Studebaker Lark and Rambler American, the scale was closer to 1/24?) Ellen, do you have plans for the custom parts?

Maybe someone here with artistic talent could create a fake ITC, Aurora or Palmer box for it?

Three 404 errors in a row. Try again... The '32 Ford sedan shown above is the original Switchers version; it was later converted into the sedan delivery.

That looks like the original issue of the kit; if it is - especially if it has the sponge-rubber (instead of vinyl) tires and everything is intact including decals and whitewall stickers - someone will want it. Emphasize that point if you do list it someplace.

Oh, yeah - it's the angle - shadow from the drip rail hides it. (Amateur photographer with a 15-year-old point-shoot-view-curse-delete-repeat camera.) Thanks to all for the encouragement!

I've used Bondic to cast some '58 Ford side trim for my '56 Plymouth - you can pour and cure a bit at a time; the material stays flexible enough to conform to curves.

For many years I've wanted to do a '61 Pontiac Tempest; finally I got a reasonably-priced and near-mint builtup on eBay: Managed to get it apart without much trouble - almost no glue was used. To me, the biggest problem with this kit is the overly-thick and crooked window pillars. To wit: (eBay and Hemmings images; real car has baseline trim) So I made the following modifications: I also thinned down the window frames considerably. Note that only on the driver's side the B-pillar is crooked; the one on the passenger side is correct. Here's where I am now: Some more little things have to be finessed, like the windshield and rear window trim, body seams and the wavy areas of the hood (where AMT put cutaway lines for louvers), but I'm getting there. Plans so far are to keep it curbside, and maybe add an underdash A/C unit. Hope this is of some help to anyone else tackling one of these little Ponchos - one idea: NASCAR had a compact class in which a few of these sedans raced alongside Falcons and Corvairs (while the Valiants mopped the floor with them!). Happy modeling!

Are you going with spoke or disc wheels?

Or maybe just a little tweak like this?

^^^ And no fuel tank. I've got one of the Jimmy Flintstone bodies and it looks pretty good; picked up an original '61 chassis for it so it can stay curbside. My current plan is for a '60 grille and separate front bumper, rear end jacked up, and 13" wheels/tires with hubcaps from the JF Econoline (the most accurate early Falcon dog dishes I've ever seen), plus some surfboards in back.

"Happy"? She looks like she's trying to talk him into one more store and he's had enough.

Sandra Bernhard!

Plus four ounces of the stuff for $19.00 is a better deal than 4 grams of Bondic for $10.00. Funny thing is, I was shopping at the Salvation Army thrift store a few weeks ago; spotted a UV nail-curing light for $12.00 and passed on it. Duh...

Sweet! I picked up eight of these Merit Grand Prix cars as builtups at an estate sale many years ago; here's the Talbot:

Thanks to all for the advice! I've been using the Alumilite quick-set rubber for the molds - is that tin or platinum? Got a new mold poured for the '58 Ford taillights so maybe I'll take a shot at the Laser Bond first - I hear on this board that it doesn't turn amber like Bondic does? Had one success with regular resin, anyway - cast a new set of whitewall inserts for the Aurora '34 Ford five-window coupe; I'm hoping vinyl tires won't melt resin like they do with styrene? I may be doing a lot of whitewall inserts if so!

Has anyone had trouble with Alumilite clear resin not curing completely? I'm very careful to get an exact 50/50 mix; parts often come out soft and sticky. Is Part B the catalyst, and if so should I use a bit more? What's been your experience with it? Thanks as always for your help! P.S. Room temp is mid-70s, humidity 35-40% if that helps.

If not, there are four listings for Faspearl White on eBay right now. Thanks for the tip, Bill!

Well, those lights didn't cure and were pretty much stuck to the mold so I'm redoing it. I'll do better next time. Redid the grille with the Eduard photoetch mesh and removed the center bar - looks way better. Thanks for the rear shot! I'm stumped on the source of those lenses too. Time to check Drastic Plastics' old instruction sheets on Fotki! Modelhaus did make separate lenses and bezels for the car, per Carol, but they weren't in the official catalog.

Thanks for the info - I come looking for food for thought and get a banquet! Might salvage the taillights after all - they seem to be setting up a bit. I'll give 'em a few days... Fingers crossed.

I may take a stab at that glass technique on my '58 as well - already reworked the openings more or less like you did. Used the '57 Ford cowl vent after separating the wipers to reinstall later. One step forward, two steps back department: I cut the trunk opening lines in the stock taillights and got an idea: why not cast them in clear resin, paint the lenses clear red, do the chrome with a Molotow pen and leave the backup lenses clear? Best-laid plans... mold came out OK but the resin doesn't seem to have set up right OR want to come out of the mold . John, what was your source for the fender ornaments on the older build? Monogram '58 T-bird?