ChrisBcritter

Plus four ounces of the stuff for $19.00 is a better deal than 4 grams of Bondic for $10.00. Funny thing is, I was shopping at the Salvation Army thrift store a few weeks ago; spotted a UV nail-curing light for $12.00 and passed on it. Duh...

Sweet! I picked up eight of these Merit Grand Prix cars as builtups at an estate sale many years ago; here's the Talbot:

Thanks to all for the advice! I've been using the Alumilite quick-set rubber for the molds - is that tin or platinum? Got a new mold poured for the '58 Ford taillights so maybe I'll take a shot at the Laser Bond first - I hear on this board that it doesn't turn amber like Bondic does? Had one success with regular resin, anyway - cast a new set of whitewall inserts for the Aurora '34 Ford five-window coupe; I'm hoping vinyl tires won't melt resin like they do with styrene? I may be doing a lot of whitewall inserts if so!

Has anyone had trouble with Alumilite clear resin not curing completely? I'm very careful to get an exact 50/50 mix; parts often come out soft and sticky. Is Part B the catalyst, and if so should I use a bit more? What's been your experience with it? Thanks as always for your help! P.S. Room temp is mid-70s, humidity 35-40% if that helps.

If not, there are four listings for Faspearl White on eBay right now. Thanks for the tip, Bill!

Well, those lights didn't cure and were pretty much stuck to the mold so I'm redoing it. I'll do better next time. Redid the grille with the Eduard photoetch mesh and removed the center bar - looks way better. Thanks for the rear shot! I'm stumped on the source of those lenses too. Time to check Drastic Plastics' old instruction sheets on Fotki! Modelhaus did make separate lenses and bezels for the car, per Carol, but they weren't in the official catalog.

Thanks for the info - I come looking for food for thought and get a banquet! Might salvage the taillights after all - they seem to be setting up a bit. I'll give 'em a few days... Fingers crossed.

I may take a stab at that glass technique on my '58 as well - already reworked the openings more or less like you did. Used the '57 Ford cowl vent after separating the wipers to reinstall later. One step forward, two steps back department: I cut the trunk opening lines in the stock taillights and got an idea: why not cast them in clear resin, paint the lenses clear red, do the chrome with a Molotow pen and leave the backup lenses clear? Best-laid plans... mold came out OK but the resin doesn't seem to have set up right OR want to come out of the mold . John, what was your source for the fender ornaments on the older build? Monogram '58 T-bird?

High praise for your steady hand, Tim!

Sweet job, Mike! I've got to try one of these Vettes soon.

Just got back from the Lake Michigan Model Car Club meeting; won an Aerovette kit in the raffle and got this from another member: Nice builtup '66 Wildcat in metallic lavender. There's a little typewritten sticker on the chassis that reads "blt 1/1/75" so I guess it's original issue? Both kits are ones I wanted to get to "someday" so it was a good evening!

Lost my answer when they moved it - they're brake drums for the AMT Modified Stockers. Some kits had 'em chromed, others didn't.

Absolutely magnificent - the beautiful Auburn Speedster finally gets the tribute it deserves. Do you have photos of the engine and chassis? And if you ever take on an ITC '40 Mercury, I'll be watching!

Brake drums from the AMT Modified Stocker series. On some of the kits they're chromed; others are plain.

They can also be used for the Jo-Han '64 Dodge - much more correctly shaped than the kit wheelcovers.

Thanks Steve! I got it apart overnight and it looks pretty thin underneath, so I'll be doing some filling. Good news is almost NO cement was used! Only the wheelcovers were glued to the wheel backs (they came off with just a little effort) and the shifter glued to the floor (cut it off and ground it smooth). It has one small glue spot at the top of the rear window where the original builder tried to install the mirror before realizing he had it backwards. So I trimmed off some flash and into the purple pond it went.

Michael's also has a full rack selection of Testor's Aztek paints; HL just has the six-packs.

Boring indeed. How about a 1/12 scale supercharged Cord V8?

The '61 Tempest arrived this afternoon - looks even better than I hoped. Dying to get at those window frames tonight ... Question: Has anyone built one of these kits and tried to flatten out the bulged spots in the hood? AMT molded depressions under the hood to be cut open for louvers, which left two oblong 3/16" x 3/4" bulges on top. Just wondering if there's enough plastic there to sand them down without opening big holes in the hood. Over to the experts!

Great work on the '66 wagon! Now if you do a correct 4-door sedan you'll sell a bunch in Brazil... right Tulio?

If you're in the Chicago area, check with Des Plaines Hobbies - they have some of that ultrafine tubing last time I checked (thanks to Tom Piagari aka feretzrus for the heads-up!).

I'm really looking forward to the build threads on many of these!

Checked off another grail kit: Paid nearly retail but it was worth it to get an unpainted, unmolested example. (And Mr. Obsessive, you'll be proud to know the FIRST thing I'll do to it is to fix those overly thick, crooked window frames! ) Also picked up a Revell '62 Plymouth dashboard - for Mopar fans, the plain Revell dash is correct for a Savoy conversion (the reissue Jo-Han '62 uses a '63 dash, and the original issue dash was trimmed and padded for a Fury), and an unbuilt engine from a '66 AMC Marlin - this will either be converted to a Gray Marine engine for the Century Coronado boat or I'll just put it in the '59 Rambler wagon.

Depends on who the owner is on each car - dealer or consigner - and which insurer covers each one. I figure there will be a lot of Copart salvage auctions coming up.

Huge improvement with that wheel/tire combo!