DiscoRover007

Beautiful work!

Vallejo Air Black is the best airbrush ready acrylic semi gloss black in my experience. Tamiya acrylic is also good but just make sure you stir the paint properly.

Nice details. Curious as to what paints you're using and washes?

Oof yeah. I'm pretty excited for the Meng kit but that rear window is an eye sore. I wonder if they based it off a particular prototype? Otherwise some sanding and puttying would be needed to round off those corners.

I had this same dilemma months ago and ended up using Tamiya Light Metallic Blue. Its pretty close to Marina Blue. Nassau blue is a nice color and a factory GM code. However it is noticeably different than Marina blue and is not present on 1967 and onward corvettes. Nassau has more of a frost to it, where as Marina is more "blue".

Its a few things but I think one reason is because it really takes a lot of time and skill building to become decent at it. It's so easy to make mistakes and become dissatisfied with the results.

I'd use Tamiya Mica blue or Testors Nassau blue overcoated with Tamiya Clear blue

I use Tamiya thin cement as well as CA glue (Bob Industries)

Big fan of the original viper. I had this kit once but was turned off by the fact that mine didn't have any headlight housings inside the lens. I find that neither Revell or AMT did the headlights realistically at all. I hope maybe one day we can get a real nice 1/24 version from Tamiya or Aoshima.

If you're only looking to touch it up. I wonder if you can use a lacquer clear? Or will that not blend in to the 2k clear?

Whats the curing time? Typically enamels are slow drying and soft compared to lacquer.

I've read about those too and found those conclusions about a closed ventilation system. I've also seen many forum threads saying the organic filters do protect from isocyanates but 3m can't market them that way as a means to cover their ass. To be completely honest I'd like to see some studies on hobbyists and their exposures to paints, lacquer, enamel , 2k, and the like. I've always worn a respirator unless I was airbrushing small amounts of acrylic paint. But even still, a hardcore model car enthusiast may very well put themselves at risk for cancer if they don't take precautions. Maybe not as much as a smoker but I could definitely see it. I do appreciate everyone's concern and it is a nice dose of reality. Whats interesting is that a lot of the popular youtube modeler's are using 2k clear like its water. Yet there is no widespread info on using it safely. As long as I can use it within a reasonable amount of safety, given the amount I'm spraying, which is far smaller than a real 1:1 car I would like to continue using it. But I really do appreciate the discussion hear and am open to changing my mind on it.

You could use a clear coat or dip it in future floor wax like GLMAA1 suggests. Then you could add a wash and some weathering to really make it pop

I've avoided using 2k for a long time for the concerns you all have voiced but I decided to give it another shot and and make it as safe as I can. I sprayed a 67 Corvette today and the 2k clear went on beautifully with my ps 290. I wanted to revisit 2k when I had a better airbrush because Ive grown so tired of having perfect lacquer finishes ruined by small accidents and paint chipping. It's caused me much grief and stalled many projects. 2k is an extremely hard finish that is sure to last. This was the mask I purchased in addition to the 3m p100 cartridges. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MW3NPZV?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

Thanks for looking into that for me. I actually talked to Sam at Splash Paints and he pointed me to the p100 cartridges for 3m masks. I got one with a full face shield as well on Amazon. Maybe overkill but I know that if i use goggles and respirator separately that I'll misplace one or the other often lol.

Hey guys I'm looking to spray some kits with 2k clear and I was wondering what kind of respirator everyone uses for that? I know 2k can be particularly dangerous. I almost bought the 3M A1P2 respirator but I wasn't certain this would be enough. I'll be spraying outside in my garage with a spray booth. No fans running on the booth however.

I've been wanting a Land Rover Discovery 2 in 1/24 form for years.

I've never had that happen with their airbrush paints after sufficient drying time. That's true of the brush paints but thats probably because it hasnt fully cured. I actually kind of like that because if I mess it up I can scrape it away with a tooth pick.

Vallejo is one of the best paints out there. Their air model paints are very easy to use and clean easily. One tip I would add, is the Air model silver paint is excellent for brush painting as well. In my honest opinion they are pretty much the best stuff out there right now. I would not hesitate using vallejo on everything except bodies and particular metal finishes or black underbodies that would be better served with a tougher lacquer finish. It has supplanted Tamiya for my uses, but I do have a few jars of Tamiya flat aluminum because I like the cast aluminum look it can deliver, and their clear red/orange paints. 90% of my coloring comes from vallejo acrylics or their spray can Flat Black/ or Silver.

Might have to give this a shot. Looks like with some light sanding you could get a smooth surface for painting quite easily.

Haha oh no not at all. I don't play rough with them. It's just been my experience that I've had many successful and near perfect lacquer paint jobs ruined by small chips and rub offs on corners and what not. I know that can be mitigated but I'd like to try using 2k and put my mind to ease.

The idea would be for a harder layer of protection for the paint. Although lacquer is good it can wear and chip with even minor handling. Thanks for the responses guys!

Hey guys just wanted to ask if I would have any trouble painting 2k clear over TS-13? I have a few kit bodies that I've painted well over a year ago so I know they are gassed out. They were cleared with TS-13. I'd like to use 2k clear over them because the bodies have a lot of sharp edges that I think could be at risk for chipping with a regular lacquer. Would just like confirmation that someone has done this. Thanks

I don't think the orange peel is that bad first off. You just need patience and elbow grease to polish it out. Be careful sanding down clear. I try not to do it all much anymore. I like to leave the clear as thick a layer as possible to protect it. Ill use compound but I dont sand unless the orange peel is super serious.

I always recommend getting the Tamiya static display brush to remove dust and static charge between coats. It takes care of 90% of debris.