DiscoRover007

Take a toothpick and shave it down to a fine point with a razor blade. Use that to apply tiny details. Works great for dashboards too.

Looks like they copied alfa romeo

Probably a Tamiya MK4 Supra. Well detailed, reasonably priced usually, and looks great in multiple colors.

Very sorry to hear you can't continue your excellent work. Not sure in which way you are suffering sir but I wish all the best for you.

My only idea that they would make a Defender 90 or a Discovery I or II. I'd buy all of them.

Interesting. I wonder what its designed use is for.

Did you wash and sand the bodies before priming? This looks like the primer might have been sprayed too heavy on a part that may still have mold release agents on it. Tamiya is definitely the best out there in a spray can primer but Duplicolor is usually a pretty great sandable primer in its own right.

I use vallejo air black for interiors and engine parts in combination with their regular acrylic brush paint Black

I've used the vallejo gloss clear in spray cans. It's okay but takes longer to dry and I think would be inferior to wetlook clear. Perfect to clear coat other parts though, CF interiors for example. I hope they don't discontinue wetlook clear. I've been using ts-13 for a good while now though. It's a hotter paint but leaves a finer finish, not at tough as WLC though. You might want to stock pile it in case it isn't remade.

Nice write up! Personally I think the best method is flocking in combination with spray adhesive. You have to mask off the areas you don't want covered which can be a pain but the results are worth in in my opinion. You can patch any mistakes with the white glue method afterwards. But it really delivers a clean and even finish.

Tamiya paints are superior in my opinion. Duplocolor has a wider array of colors though, but you need to make sure if you use metallic that the flake is fine enough to look in scale. I have experienced chipping recently with Tamiya TS sprays but it might be user error and bad luck on my end.

That’s pretty cool

That's exactly how I would like to make it. Excellent job.

Maybe try some rubbing compound or wax?

Hey gents just wanted to give a brief tip in case this ever happens to anyone. I know every once in a while someone’s paint will chip on a body and a lot of times you’re forced to strip the body in that scenario. It is especially difficult to repair metallic paints and achieve the same depth of color because the rest of body has several layers of paint compared to the resprayed area. I finally tested a theory I had as a solution. Basically all you need to do is find a compatible paint and use a solid color base coat. My body was sprayed in TS 51 Racing Blue Metallic. To initially fill in the chip, I used Tamiya TS Dark Blue with an airbrush. I then used ts 51 on top of that. With minimal layers I was able match the depth of the paint. With clear coat and polish I hope it be nearly indistinguishable from the rest of the body. I don’t have before and after pics but I thought this might be useful someone if they haven’t considered it before. It is something to try before stripping a body for sure and it definitely better than trying to match the layers of the paint to get it to look the same. happy modeling

Nice discussion. I personally try to achieve perfection within my means of skill. To me perfection would be no obvious flaws in the paint, clean paint work in the engine and dash board, carpeting added with seatbelts if possible. If I dont think I can achieve a certain detail realistically I'd rather omit it entirely than risking it being a distracting eye sore on the final product. Sometimes cleaner and simpler is better than cluttered detail for details sake. It also looks more professional. But I say all this as someone who has yet to really complete a kit. I've perfected various types of skill but something usually happens that sets me back or restarts a build because I just wont be able to accept the flaw. I've got several kits sitting at 85% done but I'm procrastinating the final stages thinking of ways to plan and attack them. Sounds crazy I know but its just how I operate. I'm learning to be more forgiving with myself though.

Nice job!

Get some vallejo acrylic white. It takes couple layers to get an opaque finish but it does a good job as a white paint.

Model Air black is my go to semi gloss black for airbrushing. I had mix results brush painting it though. Its very thin and lacks an opaque body. It might be effective if you mix it with the regular brush line vallejo negro black.

Their brush paint black is a flat sheen. Their model air color black is more of a semi gloss. You could try mixing the flat with the glossy black colors and see what you get. Or flat black and use their semi gloss varnish over top of that. I would water that down to ensure minimal brush strokes though.

Has anyone given these spray cans a shot? I know they are for 1:1 cars but I was curious if they are a viable option to paint models? I currently use Tamiya lacquers but I dont have the proper set up or the right airbrush to use 2k practically right now. My concern would be the paint laying down too thick and with orange peel in the scale of 1:1. But the idea of 2k in a spray can is appealing.

Looks awesome

Might be worth a shot

Looks great!

You did an outstanding job. Very clean