DiscoRover007

Decided to post progress on a long time project of mine. This is my Tamiya 360 Modena. One of my favorite Ferrari designs ever. Engine is painted with MM aluminum metalizer over duplicolor primer sprayed at a distance to simulate texture. It was then washed with oil paints. Valve covers and other accessory bits were painted with Vallejo spray can silver and lightly washed with Vallejo black acrylic. Debating on wiring the coil packs but they really aren’t that visible. I ended up keeping the Tamiya plating on the exhaust as I think it is actually a pretty good representation with some weathering. I used various Tamiya weathering powders for that. I am quite proud of the overall look so far of this engine. Maybe my best paint job to date. Going for a slightly used but well cared for look. The interior is flat black and masked off to paint the silver center console and passenger side thing. I then masked those parts and used the spray adhesive method for flocking. The seats and dash will be tan. I As for the body color. Well, You already know....

Looks great. Really wish Aoshima or Tamiya would make a 2003-2006 model Pajero/Montero

Good luck with it. If you do happen to get creases you might be able to just airbrush some ts-13 or primer over those parts and then sand it smooth for paint.

How bad is it? Maybe you can tape off the bonnet and touch it up with an airbrush?

I think you could save some money by skipping the carbon decals on the body and maybe just try to simulate the pattern bleed through instead. You could paint the body yellow and then using a type of mesh(maybe nylon, they have little bags you can by and take apart at hobby lobby) and put that over the body and then spray light coats of yellow over that with an airbrush. Then remove the mesh and do one more wetcoat. The texture should probably still show through. Just a thought.

The guy on the scale modeling channel uses pledge. I might try it on a spare piece and see how it looks. My concern there is the gloss shining through the flocking

Yes I use this method. It usually takes two coats. Spray, then flock, empty the tub and inspect, then spray again and flock once more. Any errors after that can be patched with the white glue method. The spray adhesive works really well to pack as much of the material as possible. It looks pretty realistic. Granted you need to make sure you mask the areas you don't want sprayed well.

I usually just wait until it’s a sunny day with less humidity. Duplicolor paints are super sensitive to humidity. Tamiyas can handle it a little better. You can usually spray outside and bring the body inside to cure without it fogging if you do it quick enough. But then you risk debris hitting the model.

You definitely want to ditch the testors enamel silver. Go for Tamiya Mica Silver or Gloss Aluminum for darker silvers. Vallejo has actually released an aerosol version of their silver. I ordered a can to see how close the scale of flake is. Will let you know how that goes.

Wow looks very 288 GTO and also a Ford GT copy

Nice job man. What paint did you use for the silver? I've found that you can get better results with mica and metallic colors by color sanding your second to last coat of paint before clear coating it. You'll get the particles to lay down much smoother.

Tamiya putty works really great. I like their much better than Testors or Bondo but for more dense and sturdier fixes I also use two part milliput

I actually just found out that Vallejo has come out with Acrylic spray paint. So i might give those a shot. They have, black, gunmetal, and a gloss clear coat. Sounds like exactly what I could use.

Hey guys just wanted to get some people to chime in on the difference between these? My understanding is that Acrylic Poly is a much more durable finish and dries quicker. Would it still be compatible with Vallejo's regular thinner? What I'm looking to do is to find a suitable acrylic clear for carbon fiber decals. I have a few models that don't have aftermarket carbon decal template support. So my plan is to use SMS clear carbon decals over a vallejo metallic gunmetal coat. Then clear coat that with one of these products. Once cured I'll mask those areas and respray the interior tub my color of choice. I use vallejo air paints religiously for interior paints now and I figure all of these in brand paints would be compatible. I've found that X-22 dissolves vallejo and I don't trust the runny nature of Future Floor Wax. So for this sort of application would i be better off with the regular acrylic gloss varnish or the tougher acrylic polyurethane ? Secondly do these paints actually gloss well and hold a shine? Comparable to a future or enamel finish? I assume they dont gloss as well as Lacquer

My guess is that this is maybe a touring package? The sunroof seems like it’s more for cruisers than all out street racing.

I think they would find success with the untapped truck/SUV market. Tacoma’s, newer Pajeros, Land Rovers, a 4 Runner would be great.

Tamiya, followed closely by Aoshima. Subject matter is the most important thing obviously but right after that I have to consider the accuracy of the mold and how many mistakes I have to fix which with Tamiya and Aoshima as of late are very few.

So is the main issue with this kit now that the rear quarter windows are not the correct shape? Simple sanding and clear plastic the fix?

I'd use a spray bottle full of water and just spray the inside of your booth a few minutes before spraying. Also spray the floor and anywhere you could imagine kicking up dust, maybe even your pants or arms. I'd also wash the body in cold water and then use compressed air from the airbrush to dry it clean. When dry use a tack cloth or damp paper towel wipe any last seen bits of dust. This has worked very well for me and I'd say has eliminated dust 95% of the time.

If Tamiya made a 1/24 version full detail Mustang I would be ecstatic. People would pay a premium for that. It wouldn’t necessarily have to be the newest model either. The Mustang has deserved Tamiya(Even Aoshima) quality for a long time in 1/24(not 1/25) They could even go the RX-7 R1/ RX-7 Efini route

This build is making want to buy one of these kits. The gallardo has aged beautifully and was a design ahead of its time. Any glaring flaws on this kit? Extra panel lines or anything ?

Personally I mask the area and then use spray adhesive with flocking. I don't find embossing powder to be more realistic. But that's just my 2 cents.

Use some kind of box or booth to spray in. Spray the entire area with water in a spray bottle. Also spray your floor and your pants if you dont mind. Basically any area you could imagine kicking up dust. For the body, wash it with water then use your airbrush or a an of duster to remove the water droplets. Then use a tack cloth to wipe anything dust that may remain. Spray the body with another pass with compressed air before painting.

Good kit. Love this car. Unfortunately the interior is pretty inaccurate.

Interesting insight there. Have you ever tried gloss sluminum as a base and then mica silver on top of that? Never really though to use the mica paints as more of an overcoat than the first stage of paint. I typically do use white primer with those paints though.