DiscoRover007

Nice paint job! This is an interesting kit. It's not entirely accurate to the true LM but I think what it actually is, is a modified F40 with an LM package of some sort. From my google search there are F40's that do look like this but they are not THE LM. But it is in the realm of the possibility of existing. Definitely need to pick this kit up again. Maybe do it in silver.

I get the same frustrations OP Id recommend switching to Tamiya or use duplicolor primer sealer over your primer before you start painting. My biggest issue with it is that I constantly get ghost lines showing through after wet coats. Only way I can avoid it is use a basecoat of a similar color by Testors or Tamiya and shoot the duplicolor over it.

That's a smart way to make seat belt latches. Im stealing that! Usually I just sandwich the ribbon between two squares of plastic and paint the end red. Works quite well depending on the style of seat belt.

Those brake lines would make a great tutorial!

BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH that looks amazing!

Wow that's amazing. I'd love to do that as a 9-5.

Glad to see you back at it Alex!

Was really hoping Tamiya would make the 488 gtb

Im okay with it as long as Rustoleum offers a better product. Duplicolor has a great primer but I'm not the biggest fan of their paints. The only ones worth using are the pearl paints to look in scale and then they have a tendency to show ghost lines, fog, and crinkle. The best results ive had with Duplicolor paints was when I used a testors or tamiya lacquer as a base and then overcoat with Duplicolor.

It's definitely the paint. That happens with Duplicolor all the time. You can try duplicolor primer sealer and see if that helps. Otherwise I try a different brand of paint.

Looks great. Nice touch on the gas cap. I was going to get this kit the other day but I kept debating in my mind how to accurately do the gas cap. I can only find one example of the road version clubsport where the gas cap is in the middle of the hood like Tamiya molds it. It's yellow and I wonder if it maybe the only example in reality. Generally the road version seems to always has the gas cap to the side fender. I was hoping an aftermarket company made a decal to represent this or perhaps an accurate template to scribe it out.

What are the new colors?

Realistically. An MK4 Supra in red, blue or silver. Perfectly stock. Favorite current super car. Best looking Ferrari since the 360 Modena imo. The 488 GTB American Muscle. Viper GTS All time great. The 246 Dino GTS The singer 911's are growing on me though.

Looks like your friend had some real modeling talent. Good of you to finish it for him.

Oh yeah its a struggle. But i've decided not to settle on these. So they will take time.

Well two things stalled this project. 1. Getting the glass piece painted up to my liking. Have yet to master the masking technique to really make it look nice. 2. The Blue body supra has taken a brake fluid bath. Ended up polishing through the clear after getting a small bit of CA glue on the paint. As first I was furious but the other thing I realized was that the roof lines on the body need to be carefully sanded. There are two molded in lines or strakes you might call them. Tamiya has mold lines running directly over them. Those actually need to be carefully sanded off without damaging those features themselves. So I forgot to do that and decided I had already worked so hard to make it look realistic everywhere else I might as well strip her down and go again. The red body will be another tan interior and I'll probably use the aftermarket engine that is made by hobby design. The silver one will probably be more box stock with aftermarket wheels. I say that now however but I'll probably detail that as well. I have a model meister turbo kit that I need to use so I may drop it in there. The finish came out really great on the silver. Its TS-17. I finally started to get the hang of using it.

Call me crazy but I did say I was making a fleet of these yes?

Thats a cool idea! Question though. In your video you say that you can use your preferred clear coat over the future for the best finish. But that's only if you use an enamel or 2k clear right? I would imagine lacquer would eat through the future.

What happened to the paint?! You’ve done a brilliant job so far. That’s a nice silver paint job

I almost exclusively use tamiya sprays for bodies. My method is usually the following. First and foremost have the body prepared with primer and wetsand most if not all the orange peel down with 2500-3000. With your color coats, just start with mist coats. 5-10 Minutes apart is fine. Build up the layers with mist coats until the primer is completely covered and opaque and the panel lines have a solid base coat of paint. Then do one-two medium wet coats. Let this dry for a few hours at least. When dry, color sand/wetsand this layer with micro mesh polishing cloths. I usually use 3600 up to 6000. The point of these coats are to provide a smooth a color matched base for the final wet coats, this will also give them depth. Be careful not to burn through the paint. When finished I wash the body off and use a damp paper towel to wipe off excess water. I then use an airbrush to spray compressed air to make sure there is no more debris or water. Then Ill wipe it with a tack cloth and then a few swipes with Tamiya's static display anti dust brush before the final wet coats. Then lastly spray your final wet coats. You should have a deep and beautiful shine with minimal orange peel. I always clear coat my paints with TS-13 and I usually have very little orange peel. If i do its pretty easily rubbed off. A little bit of orange peel is actually somewhat realistic, especially if its a mass produced car.

I've always thought plumbing was an odd term as well. It leads me to believe that the cooling hoses were added, and hollowed out all the way into the in the engine block. NOW THATS REALISM LOL

Thing is with the spray can metalizers is that they are only buffing types. They are meant to be polished and shine. They come out a lot better when airbrushed in my opinion.

Hey guys I was just curious if anyone had a spray paint they like to use when they paint engines and trannys? My typical approach is to use tamiya primer and then airbrush model master aluminum metalizer. It has just the right grain for cast finish. However sometimes it would be nice to have a lazier route and mayber use a spray can. I've tried tamiya silver leaf but it appears too bright. Gloss aluminum might work if sprayed in light coats and then dry brushed with an acrylic and some weathering. But I was curious if there was an option anyone here uses? Thanks

I pretty much buy all my kits on ebay. Its almost always a better deal than in store. But i dont buy vintage kits. Mostly just tamiya/fujimi/aoshima newer stuff. So I assume quality control is better.

I typically only criticize if i get the idea that the OP is open to suggestion or has generally done a good job and with some minor tweaks could really improve the look.