DiscoRover007

Hey guys was just wondering if anyone has used the Duplicolor sandable primer line? Not the grey filler primer. I’ve used that plenty but I am interested in trying the sandable black primer. Seems like it would be a good base under Tamiya lacquers to get some different shades. Or would I be off with something like stynylrez primer?

I do usually just go up to 4000. I use a lot of metallic paints. That’s why I go that high because I do notice a difference in the finish. If it’s a solid color I’ll go 2500-3600. The biggest difference of all is color sanding. It is especially noticeable with metallic and pearl paints. I highly recommend it before your last wet coat session. You can have a deeper and finer in scale flake look and practically eliminate any appearance of orange peel. Heres a picture of my latest paint job with the above method. Tamiya White Primer, TS-17 Gloss Aluminum, TS-13 Clear.

I use spray cans for paint jobs pretty much exclusively. Feel like I’ve got the hang of it now. I usually use Tamiya primer. I use micro mesh cloths to prep the surface and make it completely smooth. I usually go up to 4000-6000. When laying paint I spray in several mist coats to start. Usually 4-6. Enough to cover the primer completely and establish a base inside the panel lines. Then I’ll do one medium wet coat. I let that dry and then do a color sand(Dry and or wet) with micro mesh cloths. I’ll usually use 3600-4000. Then I’ll do one to two more wetcoats. This results in a deeper and finer finish, especially if using metallics. If I don’t have any noticeable debris or errors in the paint I’ll then mist coat one layer of clear coat within 30 minutes to an hour of the last color coat. Just enough to seal the paint. I’ll then let it rest a day or two before adding heavier clear coats.

Nice job! What color did you use? It’s pretty.

I’ve never used embossing powder. I like having real carpet like texture though so I stick to regular stuff. I use spray adhesive though and I think it works much better than the white glue method. You might have to apply it 1-2 times for full coverage. Anything you miss can be patched with the white glue method later.

After having both kits I would definitely argue that the Aoshima kit is superior. It is not as minutely detailed at the Fujimi kit but it is a better total package in my opinion. It is much better in terms of engineering and build quality. Aoshima knocked it out of the park. Good blend of detail and easy/well engineered assembly. It is a great example of a model that builds perfectly well as a box stock piece but can be detailed as much as you want. Very Tamiya 360 Modena like in my opinion. Fujimi Enthusiast kits are famous for their amount of detail. But it is also a very dated kit. Flimsy, warped and delicate plastic. You have to be very careful with test fitting and making sure parts line up right.

Sometimes mixing a dark grey with your black paint for the interior looks nice. Especially if you offset that with a black flocking or vice Vera.

Why not use something like Testors one coat ultra gloss? That should be readily available at your LHS.

Hi all. I picked up a Tamiya BMW z3 kit. I primarily bought this to keep my skills fresh. I also wanted an opportunity to master Tamiya’s TS-17 gloss aluminum. And if it turned out alright I figure I would always have example to reference from for future builds. I have always had problems using the paint in the past. However I feel like I have finally figured it out. I started using the same techniques I use on color coats and TS mica paints and it seems to have done the trick. I prepped the body with Tamiya white primer. I used several coats and wet sanded the primer many times with micro mesh polishing cloths. All the way up to 4000-6000. When I started laying down the TS-17 I only used mist coats from the spray can that I let sit in warm water for several minutes beforehand. I made sure to achieve full coverage in mists coats only first. Then I laid down one medium wet coat. I let this dry for about 2-3 days and I then color sanded the body with micro mesh cloths. Making sure even out areas where the silver did not appear as fine as others. I then used a tack cloth and then Tamiya’s static dust removal brush before laying down 1-2 heavy wet coats. Once I could confirm there was no noticeable debris in the paint I laid down a few light coats of TS-13 clear to seal the paint. I then laid down a final clear coat a few days later. I hated the wheels that came with the kit. Luckily I had a set of 18 inch fujimi bbs wheels that I have been waiting to use for a while. I painted them MM Aluminum metalizer and then used the metalizer sealer. To make them fit i grinded out the female fittings inside the wheel with a dremel tool. I then cut some plastic tubing to fit. It was slightly thinner than the Tamiya male fittings on the stock wheels. So I used Tamiya tape and gradually added enough width until they would fit snug in the brake. I then sealed the tape with CA glue before installing.Tires are from a first gen Tamiya NSX. Underside was painted TS-17 and lightly cleared. Since there was no motor in this kit I figured it would be worth detailing this portion as much as I could. I used a combination of Vallejo paints, black, metal gold, gunmetal, air gunmetal, air silver and Tamiya weathering powders. I also used oil paints as a wash. Overall I am quite pleased with the progress so far. I am also growing quite fond of this car the more I look at it. It’s a very timeless and beautiful design. I wouldn’t mind owning one of these someday. The interior will be black. I need to replace the driver seat as it is ruined. Given how the paint has come out I will probably use TS-17 for my silver paint from now on. Considering the ease of use from a spray can it is quite hard to beat the results. Comments welcome thanks for looking! Oh and the tape is in preparation to paint the window rubbers.

Looks great btw.

Which clear did you apply? i was going to suggest a light mist coat with the pearl clear and then top that with TS-13.

I’ve always used nail clippers instead of those

Great job. What clear did you use for the decals? I have this kit as well. Trying to make the street version. Only thing that is bothering me about is that the rear bumper should actually be blended into the hood piece like on the real car. The real panel line is just above the taillight. Would take a good amount of work to make it look right.

Very beautiful and clean build

I’m working on the curbside version myself right now. Trying to putty and blend the rear hood section together at the moment since it is actually one piece on the real car.

Have to repaint the body for this kit but the engine and interior is basically complete. Here’s how she looks. Added ignition cables and wiring, battery cables and hose clamps. Engine paint is MM aluminum metalizer. Valve cover was masked and sprayed MM gunmetal metalizer. This is the 1993 Tamiya Supra kit.

I wonder if they’ll make a street version

Nicely done. Probably one of the best models I’ve ever seen. Especially considering the modifications.

Looking great. Curious to know what you used for the engine paints?

This is a great forum. I used to frequent automotive forums in the car modeling section but that place is just about dead now. This is probably the most active car modeling forum at this time.

I like them. They are pretty useful in knocking down orange peel on primer for paint prep. Though I hardly sand clear coat anymore. I just use a polishing compound unless the orange peel is particularly rough.

I pretty much use Vallejo air paints exclusively for interiors. They are excellent acrylic paints and very opaque so they cover well. My usual go to engine paint is model master aluminum metalizer. If the engine has a grain to use I will use a coat of primer and then shoot the metalizer on top of that.

I’m currently working on the Modena version. And I agree. Probably the most well engineered intermediate kit ever made for box stock purposes. 1. Tamiya 360 2. Tamiya Supra(93) 3. Aoshima Countach

I stopped using the white glue method. I use adhesive spray instead and it works much much better. If you miss a spot you can touch it up with white glue method.

How are you avoiding ghost lines with the Duplicolor paints? It’s kept me from painting bodies with their colors for a while now. Ill sand down the mold lines and cover them completely with my primer(usually Tamiya). But a few coats of paint later the mold lines reappear through the paint and I don’t know how to stop it.